Si-vtay

Hello
I’ve been having an issue with my VTEC system for a few days now. Before I begin, PLEASE do not clutter up my thread telling me to search or of links. I have searched and search, I have the Honda service manual and I wouldn’t be posting this if I found my answer. I need someone who has experience or knows their stuff to post. With that said;

BACKGROUND:
I replaced my oil pan gasket. I did an oil change with 5w-30 Valvoline full synthetic (normal). I used a Wix oil filter 51334. Since then, I’ve noticed problems. I am not leaking oil. I did drop the header and unplugged/removed the o2 sensor from the header. I handled with care and didn’t over tighten when I installed. The OIL LEVEL is at the top dot!

PROBLEMS:
I can start up the car, drive around in the city and hit VTEC and travel throughout the rpm range with no problems. After driving around for about 10 minutes or hitting VTEC a few times, I notice that the car will sputter (VTEC engage/disengage) on and off. Eventually VTEC will stop engaging. At that point, per manual I do a road test – P1259 (Code 22) will pop up. I was at o’reillys and couldn’t get the reader to diagnose the problem with the p1259 code. However, the “o2” and “cat” bubbles on the top screen were blinking. I am not sure if that is related because I wasn’t throwing any other codes.

TROUBLE SHOOTING:
1) Hook to power the VTEC solenoid and clicked every time. Also, I am getting 12 v
2) Removed VTEC solenoid and inspected screen – nothing, clean as a whistle. In fact, I didn’t even feel the need to clean when I removed.
3) Tested for continuity in pressure switch, there seemed to be because my craftsman multimeter buzzed.
4) I pulled over when VTEC was sputtering, shut off car – pulled the VTEC oil pressure switch and jumped the harness with a paper clip. Still were having VTEC issues (so this leads me to believe switch is good)
5) Thought it was a bad oil filter and replaced

THOUGHTS:
I will hook an oil pressure gauge up as soon as I can find one. But what is so hard to diagnose this problem is that it won’t happen until the car is driven for a bit. Also, let’s say it reads less than 60 psi at and engine speed of 5000 rpms – what does that mean? Thank so for your time.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

your oil supposed to be between the dots not at the top dot.
is your car level when you measure your oil?

if its tiled any way you will not get proper level reading

jjesus

Homeboy always has something to say make sure u know what ur talkin bout b4 u spout off the wrong thing honda put both dots on there sticks for a reason duh have u ever done ur own oil change if so u wud know better or do u just use less oil than honda recomends??? Get ur phone I think NASA is calling you pimpin lmfao for days

stowne78

Yea that is weird. Sounds like an oil issue, as it warms up oil pressure must be dropping for some reason. Hopefuly your oil pick-up isn't getting clogged.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

homeboy have you ever red a service manual?
show me where it says to fill it up to the top dot...

fcm

Have you?

Although you are correct, kind of, oil level is ok if it is "anyplace" between the two "dots", if you are at or below the bottom dot, add oil, but not more then to the top dot, the top dot is the max "fill line" and the correct oil level.

Si-vtay, you changed the oil pan gasget and now you have problems, I would drop the oil pan and make sure oil pick-up, [STRAINER] is not clogged or damaged and it is in it's proper spot, it would not take much to damage/move the pick-up when pulling or reinstalling the oil pan. 94

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Yes i did.
I also seen what hapends to engine when its overfilled

HondaPartsHero

http://www.hondamanuals.org/honda-644.html

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

yep like i said. nowhere it says it should be at the upper mark just likeit shouldnt be at the lower mark.

i already know what happends when you overfill your engine.
my wife did that twice right after i rebuild the motor on her honda and i ended up replacing the seals again.

fcm

Overfilling would be above the top dot., your not going to win this argument. 94

Si-vtay

FCM I did actually check the oil pick up. It was not clogged and my brother and I were very careful not to hit it while re-installing. I am actually not sure when the problems begun because I didn’t really get on the car that much. It wasn’t until I replaced the gasket that I was feeling spirited. Not only that, but it’s difficult to tell because VTEC runs fine and it’s only after I drive for a bit it stops working. I’ll keep troubleshooting; meanwhile I greatly appreciate all your replies.

jjesus

maybe check youR speed sensor ive had them mess up b4 an have similar issue or just an oil issue like youR thinkin just a thought

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i wasnt really arguing. its you two that took it personally...

Si-vtay

Alright, please help me interpret my results. I went to harbor freight and picked up an oil pressure. It's about an 45 minute round trip. Came home, popped the 10 mm on the head on passenger side. Wasn't getting any oil pressure (normal according to service manual). Then I hooked up power to the VTEC switch an rev'd engine to 5k. Normal reading should be above 60 psi. Mine topped out at 45 and averaged 40. I waited about 10-15 minutes and performed test again. This time topped at about 55 averaging 50 psi. Per manual, it says inspect VTEC valve, but I'm not exactly sure how VTEC valve influences oil pressure.

KristianGunther

Hey i have a question that i cant seem to get an answer for and im new to this site so i really dont know where i should write this but i guess this would be okay.

Well earlier today i was taking apart my B18c1 shortblock i purchased and everything seems to be in really good shape...but after taking it all apart i realized that i had forgotten to number the connecting rods all the caps are on the right rods but...i didnt mark them, the have numbers on them, three of the rods have the number 3 on them and one of them has the number 2 on it. i was told that the rods all need to go back in there original place, all the journals look mint and everything can i just put the rods anywhere or can i find out which rod is which? can someone help me out???? im new to this site so if anything Email me at Crxkid@ymail.com or pm an ill give you my number thank you

Si-vtay

How do you figure this is the correct place?! This is my thread - search and/or create your own thread. Do not come and ***** my thread with questions that are irrelevant!

Everyone, please do not respond to the above post. I'd like to keep this on topic.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

are bearings still in them?
match the bearing wear lines to the rods

each half should have matching lines from wear.

also match any marks that go together.

i had to do that on a v8 motor and every little mark counts...


as far as OP check the oil pressure at the block also.

it might be your oil pump.

if you get normal pressure down in the block then its vtec or the oil orifice clogged

crank the engine with valve cover off and see if its flowing in the head and valve train

Si-vtay

Tapped the back of the block with an oil pressure gauge. 10 psi at idle and 40 at 3k rpm. Shut the engine off and now I'm pulling off the oil pump. I don't believe it to be bearings or anything like that because all looks good. No metal shavings or anything. Really "clean" oil. However, did come across this though. Would this cause low oil pressure

Si-vtay

Sorry, still working on the picture. Anyways, it’s the oil pick up. On the oval opening it was dented in. Apparently it appears that something dented the oil pan which then dented the oil pump opening. So, I smacked out the dent on the oil pan, replaced oil pump, seal, oil pick up and gasket, timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and spark plug gaskets and oil. Now there is absolutely no problems. The oil pressure gauge reads 20 psi and idle (operating temperature) and well above 80 psi at an engine speed of 3k. Before it the pressure would not pass 45 psi no matter how much I revved. For anyone having issues with VTEC I recommend check your oil, pressure switch (jump it and see if the problem is still apparent), VTEC solenoid screen (spool), and then hook up a pressure gauge. See what the readings are. If they are low start inspecting the oil (metal shavings), oil pan (dented) and the like. You may have to drop the pan and start inspecting the oil pick up (dents) and screen (clogged). Eventually, maybe replace the oil pump if all else checks out.

deadhead1688

i'm having this same problem, doesn't engage till it warms up, and then after a few burst of the vtec kicking in it shuts the system down and can't get it to engage again till after i shut the car off.
i figured an oil issue but not that it could be the pick ups. thanks for the experience . will let y'all now what happens

97 gsr, complete rebuild, arp everything. aem intake, dc sport 4-1 header to 3" strait pipe.

bigz0410

I just build my motor and went straight to dyno n tune. My vtec worked fine, drove my car for a day a started having vtec problems. At first my vtec would work fine but a few miles later my vtec started disengaging and it's sounds like its bogging out. My vtec is set at 6600k and it bogs out and I can't go past that. Ever so often it works but mosy of the time it doesn't. I swapped out my solenoid n still the same results.
I also check the pressure switch it turn out ok. The solenoid is working fine but the problem is it won't engage n my car feels sluggish.
But when vtec engages it has a stutter feel like something is getting clogged
Can someone help me out

Si-vtay

Sounds like you are experiencing the same thing I was. The description is all too familiar. It could be a dented oil pan, bad pick up or simply low oil levels. Give us some more description; any recent work, type of oil used, leaks, dents on oil pan,

bigz0410

No dents on the oil pan. It worked fine on the dyno and every once and a while it works...
Just did I built b20v wiseco piston eagle rods sk2 valvetrian pro2 cams...it hits vtec but it sounds like its choking n won't let me pass 6900k n my vtec ignites at 6600k

bigz0410

JUST TALK TO THE PERSON THAT TUNED MY CAR AND HE SAID THE oIL PRESSURE CHECK IS ALWAYS DISABLED DURING THERE TUNING. AND THE VERY NEXT DAY MY CAR HIT VTEC TWICE THEN STARTING HAVING THIS CLOGGING PROBLEM...

I ALWAYS USE MOBIL 1 15w-50 SYNTHETIC OIL, BECAUSE BEFORE I DID MY BUILD,MY VTEC WAS WORKING FINE.

IM GOING TO PICK UP AN AUTOMETER OIL PRESSURE GAUGE AND HOOK IT UP FROM THE BLOCK(ALWAYS NICE TO HAVE IN CASE MY OIL IS RUNNING LOW) AND SEE IF ANY PRESSURE IS FLOWING RIGHT.

OTHER THAN THAT ALL MY PARTS WERE BRAND NEW OEM GSR OIL PUMP, WATER PUMP, TIMING BELT, OIL PAN GASKETS, ETC...

Joser_em1

I'm having sort of the same problem i have a 99 si with a b18c1 swap the only code it gives me is for the oil pressure switch I replace it n Vtec will work for like a day n then code comes back on for oil pressure switch... Need help