Im buyinga b18A head used complete no damage for 30 dollars candian..thats nothing, there has to be sumthig up? im using it to build up my head so i dont really have to have down time. I need to know exactly what to look for, befor buying it. im replacing teh cams gears valves retainers evrything but i want to make sure itl be good for PnP how should i inspect it(im no dummy i worked in agarge, but i mean liek any common problems aor wear signs i should look for?)

also some advice on what exactly i should do with it.
this my plan...roughly.
this season(we only have like 7 or 8 car months)
build the head W/skunk2
skunk2 valve springs, titanium vlaves & vlave retainers/
cam gears(undecided prolly aem????)
PnP(still debating...thats where i need help)
The pnp i would only do if it is a goo didea and im not sure..i remember hearing somone talk about either port an polishing ab18 all motor or boring out his intake manifold AND Port and polising and getting flamed?


my bottem end will be ITR crank, Rods And Pistons....anything i forgot

please any advice or comments would greatly be appreciated.

Ps il be running gready S-AFC and custom chiped Pr4


[Modified by JDMdaN.A, 3:33 AM 4/7/2003]

 

Look at the face of the head... No dents or deep scratches from being dropped... hehe... but besides that scoring/improper wear of the cam caps... I've never built a non VTEC head so I can't really tell you much... I'm all into B18seies VTEC stuff so ya know... If it were me I would just pop a VTEC head on there and the gains would be better... As for port polishing all of my heads go to Portflow... Tom does awesome work... I just don't know that the gains on a nonVTEC head would be so noticeable... I would take a stock head VTEC head over a ported built non VTEC head... That's just me tho... Good Luck

 

im doing it for reliablility this is a daily driver ..i heard ls vtec was good but a little choppy and unreliable. thnx for input though

 

I suppose it's cheap because everyone wants VTEC... but there is one not so obvious thing I'd encourage you to check.

The cams sit in their machined cradles, but have no bearings per-se. Because of this, your options once they're worn out of tolerance are few.

Excessive wear (out of tolerance) could result in broken cams (etc). You might want to mic or plastigage them to see how worn they are.

Good luck.

Mark

 

Same thing I was gonna say last night but forgot... No one really wants them... As msilbernagel said... Inspect the head first... The only way I would ever say that an LSVTEC is unreliable is if it is built cheap... As in using a stock bottom end... Building a bottom end back to stock an LSVTEC motor will hold up just fine... If that is what is making you make your decisions for staying nonVTEC then I would strongly reconsider... You say you have ITR pistons... Did you get new rod bolts??? It's okay if you didn't but if you did then it would be every simple to build a "reliable" LSVTEC from your motor... I would check to see all your bearing clearances are within spec at the same time if you decided to take this route... But besides that all you would need for the bottom end is... VTEC oil/water pumps, VTEC timing belt, new B18A/B headgasket, and an external oil feed... For the head, drill out the two front holes to match the 14mm dowel pins, plug the stock oil feed jet in the bottom of the head, and connect the line... That's not too hard... People worry about NOT having oil squirters but you'll be fine and as long as you don't try to rev your motor to 10,000rpm.. If you did want more revs that ~8200-8400 I would have the bottom end balanced along with aftermarket rods, pistons... Upgrading the valvetrain too... Just my $0.02... Good Luck

 

since skunk2 doesnt make nonvtec stuff yet thattd be hard to build with.

 

heh i was gunna edit it. i wrote it last night and i was tired and couldnt remember exactly what the crower stage 2s wer called 6403s or sumthing and i was lazty and tired as i was past my bedtimelol(work early next day) and as i mention was going to go lsvtec with gsr hgead and was going to use skunk 2 stage 2 cams..tada a logical answer to your ***..."im better than you cause you sliped up during long techno babble late at night, while high as hell" and been on honda tech longer answer....ps thanx for all other input...i am here to learn.


thats funny we have teh same name too.


[Modified by JDMdaN.A, 12:33 AM 4/8/2003]

 

i was told with type r crank rods new bolts gaskets yada yada yad a and a head that could take it my bottem end should be able to rev safley(ijn hard scenarios) safely.?/?? hes a reliable source hes built and tuned turbo hatches h22s alll kinds? is he wrong?

 

An B18C crank and rods will allow you to rev higher only because the R/S is bumped up a bit... They are also stronger than B18C1 and factory balanced... Still there is nothing wrong in reving an LS/CRVTEC with the stock crank so long as you are strengthening other things such as the rods, etc... My friends' CRVTEC's with STOCK shotpeened rods and ARP rod bolts, all rev anywhere from 8400-8800rpm... We don't go any higher because that's where they peak.... One is running a CTR IN cam the other is running JUN3's... These two both run JE 84.25 12.0:1 slugs in stock sleeves... NO problems after over a year... There are a few others but they have rods etc and rev higher... My friend's 86mm bore LSVTEC running 15.0:1 revs to 10,000rpm and peaks at ~9500rpm with SK2ST3 cams in a Portflow head... Of course it has aftermarket rods and the whole rotational assembly is balanced... On Hondata it made 260whp and 162wtq... Erick's Racing's race motor has runs a B18C crank and actually makes peakier power with less overall torque... There motor spins up to 10,700rpm.... Anyways the bottom line is you'll be able to rev an LSVTEC motor plenty high with no problems so long as you take the necessary steps... ~8500 cool??? Also why do you ask if he is wrong??? B18C5 internals in a B18A/B block will rev just like a ITR motor... Only differences in the blocks are the less lack the internal oil feed, girdle, and oil squirters... Pumps can always be swapped... Hope this helps but i don't know what i said... haha Good Luck with whatever path you take.... Latez

 

As stated, check the cam bores. Out of spec bores pretty much mean the head is scrap. Make sure it comes with cam caps also.

--
Tom