autox19

When I first start the car it is smooth. Throttle is responsive good power. Once is is warmed up (rd-1 says 196+) there is no power. Blip the throttle and no response. If I move the throttle real slow I can get it to rev but once I start letting the clutch out it bogs down.
info. B16a odb0 with obd1 dizzy. Obd1 ECU with crome. Obd0 injectors with resistance box. Ran fine last summer but had an over heating issue. Over winter I replaced the head gasket (oem) replaced water pump. Added o2 sensor (did not have one last year) recently cleaned the iavc. Sprayed carb clean no vacuum leaks I can hear.

thoughts?
odie
b16 fiat x19

Txdragon

Time for a new coolant sensor?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I was thinking that also. ECT sensor may need replacement

autox19

just for validation, when you are referring to the ECT that that sends the temp to the ECU, correct? know there are 2 on the head, one that if for the gauge and one for the ECU. (please correct me, I am still trying to get the hang of this "honda" thing. Love it so far even with all the issues) That being said. I do NOT have a temperature gauge per se, I only have the tuner view RD-1. Not sure which sensor it gets its Data from. I am emailing them to find out as well. The rd1- shows the same temp as I get from testing the coolant in the expansion tank. (dont tell my wife, but her thermometer from the kitchen works great....)
Hey!! I just thought of something! when the head gasket was suspect for the cooling issue, we also swapped it with a known good head. (fearing that the head might be cracked, we really didnt know what was causing the overheating issues. thanks to you guys, it was I have the bypass and heater backwards as I swapped to OEM thermostat) Anyway, (yes I am ADHD). so when i said the car ran great last year, the coolant sensor would have been on the other head. The engine the current head came from actually ran ok, but spun a bearing. something about having the engine sit without oil for 7 years the just adding oil and starting it. Hindsight, should have taken the caps off and prelubed them.

also just had issues with vacuum lines. (see previous thread) so there might still be issues there as well. This will not be a daily driver, only seeing warm weather so what ever can/needs to be removed to hep rectify issues, I am game. Just want to drive a mid engine B16 in a 2000 lbs car so bad! its been 8 years in this conversion

to recap. I will check with tunerview people to see if the temperature comes from the ECU or from the gauge sender. will also get the sensor from the other head.
might shoot a quick video of the issue tomorrow.

thanks guys!!

Odie
b16 fiat x19

Txdragon

Your coolant temp sensor should be located there at your thermostat housing. May be in another location on your
B-series.

2x0

autox19

Hmm that may be! Fyi I turned 51 yesterday. My brain is dying. So one very very important thing that you made me remember. Last year I didn't have the o2 sensor. Told crome to ignore it (open loop) I have since added the o2 as well as an aem wide band. Should be an easy test. I will unplug the o2 tomorrow. I assumed disabling it wouldn't use it even when plugged in. I will also verify the chip. I am 87 percent sure I had it disabled when it ran as I didn't have the o2 and would guess it would have went Into limp mode if I didn't have it disabled.

odie
fiatx19 b16

autox19

Had a quick minute to do a video. I didn't have time to let it fully warm up nor time to try unplugging the o2 sensor. But I think you get the idea. The rev up at the end was me literally going full throttle. As you hear, little response


odie

tech8

The one on the thermostat housing is essentially just a fan switch; that is a switch, not a sensor. The ECT sensor is on the cylinder head, near the distributor.

2x0

autox19

I will remember to look at the wideband tonight and report back. I did hear back, the rd-1 pulls the temp from the ECU so I am pretty sure the temp the ECU is getting is correct.


​​​​​​​odie

autox19

Ok. Unfortunately the video this time didn't take. Started it up. And once it got about 135 it started skipping around again. Wide band was showing 10-12.5 jumping. I unplugged the o2. No change. I unplugged the hose going to the iacv from the pot and it smoothed out. For a little then went back to surfing. Same on the wideband. I plugged up the pot where I just unplugged and it stalled out.

another thought. I do have this intake that doesn't have the dashpot. Should I swap ?



Other intake i have. Not sure from where. But doesnt have dashpot.

Getting frustrated.

odie

autox19

Ok. More info. I see the other manifold would not be a good idea as it has no iat. So googling also popped up possible delete if the iacv. This is not a daily driver this was supposed to be for fun on weekends only. Aftermarket manifold? New jdm b16?
other thoughts. I did do the head gasket. Would the lack of anything on acceleration be caused by cam timing? I am 87 percent sure i have it on. How about dizzy timing?

odie

2x0

autox19

Yeah. I double checked the rom. 02 is still disabled. Which would explain no change when I unplugged it. I also checked and no codes. I have to work on my daughters car tomorrow (control arms she bounced off a curb. Ugh) but should be able to check timing Tuesday.

odie

Txdragon

Sometimes, it takes a couple sets of eyes to see a problem and sometimes it takes a couple times reading about an issue lol Your idle A/F says you're running really, REALLY rich (especially if you're in the 10s) and given this is NA, i'm not super versed in B-series but i'd still say that's going to be an issue, even if not THE issue. To my question! What head did you source? What engine did it come from? You mentioned you put another head from a spun engine, this has sparked my interest given a few other details. Also, what ECU are you running? What are your TPS readings closed and WOT?

Black R

autox19

first, TPS reads 4.3v with pedal to the floor,
I did not post about a race gasket for an intake gasket. unless I did it in my sleep.
ok, now grab some coffee.
I have 2 engines. I will call them A and B.
Both are jdm B16a (from engine stamp)
ECU is chipped obd1
Dizzys are obd1
Injectors are obd0 with resistor block
A was bought as a mule for fitment and I never heard it run even though the owner claimed it did.
Engine B was in a civic and when bought was in limp mode.
We fixed engine B while still in the civic. (new tps, and disabled o2 in crome)
Engine was taken from civic and 7 years later (last summer)
Rywilre "race" harness (meaning bare wire ends, no chassis plugs)
car was finally driven with engine B.
Big Mistake. spun bearings. Both crank and journals were affected
Swapped to engine A (why not try)
Used engine B's intake, TB, Injector, rail. as A's intake didnt have IAT
*********Started right up. ran GREAT*********
couldnt get it to stay cool ran up to 215 and I kept shutting it down. I do believe I posted here on this.
one suspect was head gasket. Leak down also pointed that way.
Replaced Thermostat with OEM
Replaced Water Pump
Replaced Head Gasket with OEM
because we knew Engine B had a straight head (leak down test showed it was sealing) we decided to use that head with Block A. Block A could have been warped, we could have had it tested but thought it was quicker/cheaper to use the known head
changed jenky fiat to honda throttle cable to single custom cable and housing
Added o2 sensor to header (didnt not change crome yet)
Added oil pressure sensor because I dont trust idiot lights.
Added Wide Band
Added Rd-1 digital dash
Added K-tuned upper coolant housing. this eliminated the coolant outlet going under the TB.
I REALLY REALLY REALLY appreciate this. I wish I could port this forum to lansing mi to have you guys come over for beer and fix party! (or beer and "we tried" party)

Odie

autox19

Here is what I have for cam timing. I am thinking of going back to stock as the pointers are clearer.



Top cans. Bottom. Pointer on polly

odie

Txdragon

The IAC valve coolant line can be plugged and totally bypassed. The only thing this will affect is cold start. I bypassed mine entirely when I swapped my B7 for Z6. Only time I had ANY issue on cold start was the last 35 degree morning, and with summer just around the corner, I don't see any issues in my immediate future. On the cold start, all I had to do was just keep the throttle up to 1.5k rpm myself for a couple minutes until she could stand on her own legs. I have since had some time to iron this wrinkle out a bit through my tune...

autox19

Ok. Thinking all night. See if this holds water. It appears that the intake can is off 1 tooth clockwise. This would not only cause bad power, but will also regard the dizzy timing. This will cause a lower idle and no power. When the idle hits low the ECU gives it gas and air but the timing won't allow it to hold.
also looks like the gears are backwards putting the timing line on the outside, not inside. Meaning I only used the dot at the top for alignment. Bad bad bad.
tonight I am going to swap the gears and try to line things back up. I am going to mark where the cams are currently to see if they are in a different spot after re-alignment

odie

Txdragon

1 tooth is enough to wreak some serious havoc, yes!

autox19

Update. In pause mode. Took off the cam gears to swap them around and found the intake had a little wiggle. Swapped for the exhaust and the wiggle followed the cam gear. Ordering new gears. Don't want to find out later it breaks. Would rather pause while I get new ones.

oh. It was off by a tooth for sure.

odie

Black R

autox19

yes crome. Last I checked, the coolant was running the same temp as what was indicated. I used wifes cooking thermometer in the expansion tank which has constant flow from the heater circuit with no heater, hose comes from head to top of expansion, form bottom of expansion to return after the thermostat. I also can see the temp fluctuate about 180-190ish which is when the stat should be opening. . of course, I tried and couldnt find an actual temperature that indicates over heating for a b16. alot of people telling where it hits on the non numbered gauge (which I do not have), but nothing on actual temperature.

Odie