b16 Help please!
Two problems with my recent swap, one easy to diagnose, one not so easy. Any confirmation or disagreement with #1 is welcome & any clues with #2 would be great!
1) I think the thermostat is bad. Three reasons - the fan doesn't come on, after filling the radiator with fluid, the thermostat never opened up to allow more fluid into the radiator & even when up to operating temp on the temp gauge, the heater doesn't blow hot air into the car. Sound like a bad thermostat, right? If so, which one should I get to replace the jdm b16 one?
2) Had the distributor rebuilt, after the first test drive which went pretty normal, I drove home. Test out vtec a bit on the way. Partway home the tach goes nuts & the motor starts missing. I barely limp home. I figure the ignitor is either loose or bad - check all connections, no problems, so I replace it with the ignitor from a d16a6 I've got laying around. Test drive the car again. Seems good in regular traffic. Get on the freeway, run it up to vtec. Shortly thereafter, tach goes nuts again, same symptoms. Barely limp it to my shop space @ work. Figure that maybe the coil is bad & is taking out ignitors, so I replace the coil with one from the d16a6 distributor. Fire up motor, let it warm up. Look inside - wtf? Now I've got a check engine light. Check the code - 22. Hmmmm. Check the oil pressure switch connection - oh ****, the ground is loose. Tighten ground, reset ECU. No codes. Test drive - seems good, run it up to vtec - at about 6k rpm the tach goes a little nuts again, quick bounce up & back, so I let off. This time, however, the tach stays stable at lower rpm's & there's no missing. What might be the trouble? Any ideas?
TIA!
Eric
1) I think the thermostat is bad. Three reasons - the fan doesn't come on, after filling the radiator with fluid, the thermostat never opened up to allow more fluid into the radiator & even when up to operating temp on the temp gauge, the heater doesn't blow hot air into the car. Sound like a bad thermostat, right? If so, which one should I get to replace the jdm b16 one?
2) Had the distributor rebuilt, after the first test drive which went pretty normal, I drove home. Test out vtec a bit on the way. Partway home the tach goes nuts & the motor starts missing. I barely limp home. I figure the ignitor is either loose or bad - check all connections, no problems, so I replace it with the ignitor from a d16a6 I've got laying around. Test drive the car again. Seems good in regular traffic. Get on the freeway, run it up to vtec. Shortly thereafter, tach goes nuts again, same symptoms. Barely limp it to my shop space @ work. Figure that maybe the coil is bad & is taking out ignitors, so I replace the coil with one from the d16a6 distributor. Fire up motor, let it warm up. Look inside - wtf? Now I've got a check engine light. Check the code - 22. Hmmmm. Check the oil pressure switch connection - oh ****, the ground is loose. Tighten ground, reset ECU. No codes. Test drive - seems good, run it up to vtec - at about 6k rpm the tach goes a little nuts again, quick bounce up & back, so I let off. This time, however, the tach stays stable at lower rpm's & there's no missing. What might be the trouble? Any ideas?
TIA!
Eric
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Chief Wenceslaw
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Mar 4, 2006 11:44 PM




