B16 CRX no start.
Hey everyone! I'm new here, and I've seen some pretty knowledgeable people post on this board so I'm hoping someone can help me.
Here's the scenario, my friend called me and said his car died suddenly when pulling into the gas station and wouldn't start. Car is a '91 CRX(HF) with a B16 and a Revhard turbo kit.
First thing I did was check spark, it was good, car is cranking fine but just not starting. If you let it sit for a minute and try to start it, it will sometimes attemp to start an run rough for a second then die. When you try to restart it right after that it does not attempt to start at all, it seems this happens only after sitting a few minutes.
I thought it may be the cam timing, and we checked an sure enough the intake was off only one tooth, which should not be enough to keep the car from starting. We replaced the tensioner(which was original and possibly worn out) aligned the cams and still nothing.
ECU has code 7 for TPS which is defective and has been for quite sometime and never caused any trouble.
Next we started looking at fuel, we don't have a pressure gauge which we may need but, there seems to be pressure. The inline pump on the firewall is obviously working, and we can hear the in-tank pump priming. We tested for voltage at the injector resistor box primitively with a two wire leads attached to a light bulb. We tested for voltage at the input to the box and light worked. We tried at the injectors, and at first we put one of the leads into each injector pin and the light did not come on. The I put one lead on the power wire on the injector clip(red/BLK?) and touched the other lead to ground, and the light worked. I'm assuming the injectors only fire when a ground is applied from ECU to complete the circuit?? I thought this may be part of the cause but, as of now this is my only idea.
Thanks In Advance
Here's the scenario, my friend called me and said his car died suddenly when pulling into the gas station and wouldn't start. Car is a '91 CRX(HF) with a B16 and a Revhard turbo kit.
First thing I did was check spark, it was good, car is cranking fine but just not starting. If you let it sit for a minute and try to start it, it will sometimes attemp to start an run rough for a second then die. When you try to restart it right after that it does not attempt to start at all, it seems this happens only after sitting a few minutes.
I thought it may be the cam timing, and we checked an sure enough the intake was off only one tooth, which should not be enough to keep the car from starting. We replaced the tensioner(which was original and possibly worn out) aligned the cams and still nothing.
ECU has code 7 for TPS which is defective and has been for quite sometime and never caused any trouble.
Next we started looking at fuel, we don't have a pressure gauge which we may need but, there seems to be pressure. The inline pump on the firewall is obviously working, and we can hear the in-tank pump priming. We tested for voltage at the injector resistor box primitively with a two wire leads attached to a light bulb. We tested for voltage at the input to the box and light worked. We tried at the injectors, and at first we put one of the leads into each injector pin and the light did not come on. The I put one lead on the power wire on the injector clip(red/BLK?) and touched the other lead to ground, and the light worked. I'm assuming the injectors only fire when a ground is applied from ECU to complete the circuit?? I thought this may be part of the cause but, as of now this is my only idea.
Thanks In Advance
That may be a possibility but, last November when we did the swap it was replaced, so I don't think it is that. We were using the Vortech FMU, and I though it may have been causing a problem, but, we bypassed it using a barrel and still no change.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Amalgam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought it may be the cam timing, and we checked an sure enough the intake was off only one tooth, which should not be enough to keep the car from starting. We replaced the tensioner(which was original and possibly worn out) aligned the cams and still nothing.
ECU has code 7 for TPS which is defective and has been for quite sometime and never caused any trouble.
Next we started looking at fuel, we don't have a pressure gauge which we may need but, there seems to be pressure. The inline pump on the firewall is obviously working, and we can hear the in-tank pump priming. We tested for voltage at the injector resistor box primitively with a two wire leads attached to a light bulb. We tested for voltage at the input to the box and light worked. We tried at the injectors, and at first we put one of the leads into each injector pin and the light did not come on. The I put one lead on the power wire on the injector clip(red/BLK?) and touched the other lead to ground, and the light worked. I'm assuming the injectors only fire when a ground is applied from ECU to complete the circuit?? I thought this may be part of the cause but, as of now this is my only idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First
This is a shot in the dark but sometimes if the distrubuter is seizing it will cause the belt to skip a tooth or two - so take it off and check it out, swap it with a friends car for a test. Also make damn sure you have the timing belt on right because if it is really old the points may not line up as nice as a new belt.
Second
Shame on your friend for driving a turbocharged car with a TPS code!!!
o2/tps codes can still come on and everything will seem right but it's bad news, expecially when you throw boost in the equation. You got to keep on top of things when you turbocharge a Honda.
Your friend reminds me of my grandma who kept on driving even though her oil light was on - guess what happened to the engine?
Third
Check the compression of the motor. My buddies supercharged CRX had serious trouble starting because of bad compression - but because of boost the car seemed to run fine (under powered but fine) - took a whole afternoon of tests to realize it was bad compression the whole time..
ECU has code 7 for TPS which is defective and has been for quite sometime and never caused any trouble.
Next we started looking at fuel, we don't have a pressure gauge which we may need but, there seems to be pressure. The inline pump on the firewall is obviously working, and we can hear the in-tank pump priming. We tested for voltage at the injector resistor box primitively with a two wire leads attached to a light bulb. We tested for voltage at the input to the box and light worked. We tried at the injectors, and at first we put one of the leads into each injector pin and the light did not come on. The I put one lead on the power wire on the injector clip(red/BLK?) and touched the other lead to ground, and the light worked. I'm assuming the injectors only fire when a ground is applied from ECU to complete the circuit?? I thought this may be part of the cause but, as of now this is my only idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
First
This is a shot in the dark but sometimes if the distrubuter is seizing it will cause the belt to skip a tooth or two - so take it off and check it out, swap it with a friends car for a test. Also make damn sure you have the timing belt on right because if it is really old the points may not line up as nice as a new belt.
Second
Shame on your friend for driving a turbocharged car with a TPS code!!!
o2/tps codes can still come on and everything will seem right but it's bad news, expecially when you throw boost in the equation. You got to keep on top of things when you turbocharge a Honda.
Your friend reminds me of my grandma who kept on driving even though her oil light was on - guess what happened to the engine?Third
Check the compression of the motor. My buddies supercharged CRX had serious trouble starting because of bad compression - but because of boost the car seemed to run fine (under powered but fine) - took a whole afternoon of tests to realize it was bad compression the whole time..
2point2...thanks for your help.
Distributor literally grenaded on the inside. The magnetic coil winding inside the distributor cam apart and collided with the teeth on the distibutor shaft, so the ECU would not fire the injectors properly. And guess what the distributor barely turns, so I guess thats why the timing belt jumped.
Again thanks fo your help!
Distributor literally grenaded on the inside. The magnetic coil winding inside the distributor cam apart and collided with the teeth on the distibutor shaft, so the ECU would not fire the injectors properly. And guess what the distributor barely turns, so I guess thats why the timing belt jumped.
Again thanks fo your help!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Amalgam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2point2...thanks for your help.
Distributor literally grenaded on the inside. The magnetic coil winding inside the distributor cam apart and collided with the teeth on the distibutor shaft, so the ECU would not fire the injectors properly. And guess what the distributor barely turns, so I guess thats why the timing belt jumped.
Again thanks fo your help!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fix that tps while your at it.
Distributor literally grenaded on the inside. The magnetic coil winding inside the distributor cam apart and collided with the teeth on the distibutor shaft, so the ECU would not fire the injectors properly. And guess what the distributor barely turns, so I guess thats why the timing belt jumped.
Again thanks fo your help!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fix that tps while your at it.
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