Axle, Angle, CV-joint, & LSD
For those of you that are low, have you noticed the angle of your axles?
Up front, I have GC's dialed to a 2.3 inch drop (which is not very low).
Axles look like they are in a 30deg angle, it looks like they're gonna break
When I had the Phantom Grip, I noticed the CV joints would start clicking more than normal. I guess its because of turning into a dip at the end of a driveway before entering the street then accelerating. After doing that several times, the CV's would go bad. I tried raising the front .5" up, and newly rebuilt axles would still go bad. Now, with the quaife atb ..its even worse!! Seems like I have to change axles like I change oil. Its every 5000-8000 miles this happens (after changing the axles).
The axles are rebuilt ones, but they're from a reputable shop. I have had pairs of axles from them that lasted a full year or more, but that was before the limited slip stuff. Would it be wise to buy OE quality axles? Are there axles with CVs that can take those sharp angles?
Up front, I have GC's dialed to a 2.3 inch drop (which is not very low).
Axles look like they are in a 30deg angle, it looks like they're gonna break

When I had the Phantom Grip, I noticed the CV joints would start clicking more than normal. I guess its because of turning into a dip at the end of a driveway before entering the street then accelerating. After doing that several times, the CV's would go bad. I tried raising the front .5" up, and newly rebuilt axles would still go bad. Now, with the quaife atb ..its even worse!! Seems like I have to change axles like I change oil. Its every 5000-8000 miles this happens (after changing the axles).
The axles are rebuilt ones, but they're from a reputable shop. I have had pairs of axles from them that lasted a full year or more, but that was before the limited slip stuff. Would it be wise to buy OE quality axles? Are there axles with CVs that can take those sharp angles?
The joys of lowering, no one takes these issues into consideration.
I have replaced my half shafts, my CVs were worn, and I now need new wheel bearings up front. I had it dropped for one summer, and some minor auto x really fucked up my suspension. I did not mention my rear control arms tore right off my camber kit and my sway bar pulled through the frame.
There are perfomance grade shafts, and that is what you are going to need if you must have it low. You may want to have your boots packed like a 300lb fat kids lunch bag, when you swap them again. Also consider raising and corner weighing your car. Yes you would not be able to adjust your suspension again once it is set (it would be dumb to)
People think lowering a car will get it handling like a champ when it is really all about alignment, tire, and weight distribution. So think about that.
Just because you have more ride height does not mean you are going to handle like ****, it is all about tuning what you have.
[Modified by sirozed, 7:18 AM 1/5/2002]
I have replaced my half shafts, my CVs were worn, and I now need new wheel bearings up front. I had it dropped for one summer, and some minor auto x really fucked up my suspension. I did not mention my rear control arms tore right off my camber kit and my sway bar pulled through the frame.
There are perfomance grade shafts, and that is what you are going to need if you must have it low. You may want to have your boots packed like a 300lb fat kids lunch bag, when you swap them again. Also consider raising and corner weighing your car. Yes you would not be able to adjust your suspension again once it is set (it would be dumb to)
People think lowering a car will get it handling like a champ when it is really all about alignment, tire, and weight distribution. So think about that.
Just because you have more ride height does not mean you are going to handle like ****, it is all about tuning what you have.
[Modified by sirozed, 7:18 AM 1/5/2002]
Just get some axles from Raxles.com and be done with it. They use ALL NEW outer CVs, screw that remanufactured crap.
[Modified by nfn15037, 8:27 AM 1/5/2002]
[Modified by nfn15037, 8:27 AM 1/5/2002]
hey
just a quick note, an outer c.v. from honda came with whats called a dual arch design. its cheap for them to manufacture but the ***** will move from one arch to the next moving over a small point. this will cause this type of c.v. to wear faster than most c.v.'s .
the question is what kind o milage does the axle have on it. as for the angle the inner c.v. is not a real c.v. its a 3 prong trunion joint like a 3 leged u-joint. if there would be a problem with the angle this is usually where it show's up (gives the car a vibration like a out of round tire. by far the best way and least expensive is replace the axle.
frank
just a quick note, an outer c.v. from honda came with whats called a dual arch design. its cheap for them to manufacture but the ***** will move from one arch to the next moving over a small point. this will cause this type of c.v. to wear faster than most c.v.'s .
the question is what kind o milage does the axle have on it. as for the angle the inner c.v. is not a real c.v. its a 3 prong trunion joint like a 3 leged u-joint. if there would be a problem with the angle this is usually where it show's up (gives the car a vibration like a out of round tire. by far the best way and least expensive is replace the axle.
frank
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just cuz its new doesnt mean its better. when an axle is not abused and driven normally, everyday driving actually stress relieves the outer shaft from the stress risers that accumulate during the manufacturing process. I haven't heard anything necessarily good or bad about Raxles, but I know a good used axle from the junkyard isn't much money. approx 200 for all three.
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