<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sikcrx80 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well thats good to know.. i call my local shop and they want 10 to check rod and 22 to fix tem if needed to.. i just really dont want to take them out.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good deal thats a fair price

 

it will leave an egg shape machine your rods 10 a piece

 

1. As always, certain engine building processes are highly recommended, but not always practiced. Every engine builder is going to tell you to check the rod bores for distortion after installing ARP bolts. If there is distortion, you'll need to rehone the bores back to spec. Many people who don't get the rods checked end up fine. However, there are a few people who have spun bearings from not checking them.

2. The process of re-tightening/loosening the bolts has nothing to do with stretch. It's done to seat the bolts into the rods to give more accurate torque readings.

3. I would never consider using a torque wrench with aftermarket rod bolts. Use a stretch gauge. It's not even a "recomendation" - don't tighten the bolts without the gauge. That's by far the single most important part of building an engine.

4. Use a micrometer/digital caliper to measure the exact length of each bolt before you install them. Write the lengths down on a piece of paper and keep it somewhere safe. If you ever rebuild the motor in the future, the only way to determine if the bolts are still good is to compare their length to the original manufactured lenght you wrote down.

 

they may seem like a stupid question... but do you have too take apart the motor to put rod bolts in?? or can you just do it from the oil pan???