I have recently acquired a ZEX nitrous kit.
What are somethings i should do if I want to SAFELY and RELIABLY spray the 75 shot?
The only thing i know for sure, is to use premium gas, and i am thinking about buying the ZEX spark plugs made for Nitrous/Turbo/SC applications..
BTW: in order to avoid bouncing it off the revlimiter, is there a company that makes a revlimiter that isn't a FUEL cut?? and what would be a good RPM to shift at to prevent this, but still be optimal for "torque/hp/speed" reasons, is there a trick with Nitrous?? (b16a2, 8200 redline..)
any help is appreciated!!
thanks,
mike
[Modified by MikeMAN, 11:34 PM 8/21/2002]
What are somethings i should do if I want to SAFELY and RELIABLY spray the 75 shot?
The only thing i know for sure, is to use premium gas, and i am thinking about buying the ZEX spark plugs made for Nitrous/Turbo/SC applications..
BTW: in order to avoid bouncing it off the revlimiter, is there a company that makes a revlimiter that isn't a FUEL cut?? and what would be a good RPM to shift at to prevent this, but still be optimal for "torque/hp/speed" reasons, is there a trick with Nitrous?? (b16a2, 8200 redline..)
any help is appreciated!!
thanks,
mike
[Modified by MikeMAN, 11:34 PM 8/21/2002]
Honda-Tech Member
92+ octane. 4 degrees timing retard. Good clutch (act). Zex Plugs.
Get a window switch that shuts the nitrous off at a predetermined rpm if it scares j00.
Get a window switch that shuts the nitrous off at a predetermined rpm if it scares j00.
Do NOT use platinum plugs. They run very hot and can induce detonation. I use NGK bkr7e's.
MSD makes ignitions system with built in rev limiters and timing control options. It cuts every other spark to maintain the limited rpm.
MSD makes ignitions system with built in rev limiters and timing control options. It cuts every other spark to maintain the limited rpm.
Honda-Tech Member
MSD Digital 6: has timing retard
MSD Window Switch: has "Start" and "Stop" points that will only allow the nitrous to run between those two points. ex. 3000rpm and 8000rpm. Uses rpm "pills"
NGK bkr7e Spark Plugs
Walbro 255 lph Fuel pump
New FPR
New Clutch: you WILL need this sooner or later, better have it for the nitrous.
MSD Window Switch: has "Start" and "Stop" points that will only allow the nitrous to run between those two points. ex. 3000rpm and 8000rpm. Uses rpm "pills"
NGK bkr7e Spark Plugs
Walbro 255 lph Fuel pump
New FPR
New Clutch: you WILL need this sooner or later, better have it for the nitrous.
The plugs we use are an NGK Race plug, R5671A-7. This plugs is designed for nitrous and turbo. It offers a recessed porcelin which is designed to keep from falling into the combustion chamber if detonation occurs. They make them in colder heat ranges, should you decide to go higher up on the nitrous. As far as the rev limiter is concerned, use an MSD 6AL with the softtouch rev limiter. You can set the rev limiter to whatever you want with an MSD pill that will cut ignition timing as a rev limiter. Although, I would not recommend that you go that route. Hitting the rev limiter, wether it be fuel or ignition, is not healthy for the motor while on nitrous. I would recommend that you run an rpm activated window switch from NOS or you could run the one from MSD. This will insure the safety of your motor while on nitrous.
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept
Get a MSD SCI+ Digital Ignition system. You can set a rev limit and you can the retard the ignition when nitrous is engaged. If you going to do that you might as well get a new MSD cap and coil.
For controling your nitrous the easiest would just be a MSD RPM Window Switch. You just set it when you want it to activate and when you want it to turn off.
If you are worried about hitting the limiter just set-up a shift light.
I would also go with the colder plugs as some recommended.
For controling your nitrous the easiest would just be a MSD RPM Window Switch. You just set it when you want it to activate and when you want it to turn off.
If you are worried about hitting the limiter just set-up a shift light.
I would also go with the colder plugs as some recommended.
You shouldn't retard the timing unless you plan on going above a 125 shot. What you're actually supposed to do is run a higher octane fuel such as VP, when running large amounts of nos. The biggest mistake a lot of guys make is to retard timing under low boost and low nos shots. What in turn happens is that your EGT's skyrocket and that's when you get piston melt down. Honda's aluminum blocks can not withstand high EGT's as a cast iron block can. I'm not saying that retarding the timing is wrong, just not at low boost or nos levels since it is not needed.
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept.
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept.
Honda-Tech Member
define low boost levels. For example, what about 7psi intercooled turbo on 10.6:1 pistons?
What I mean by low boost is up to 14psi. You can run 14psi at stock 15-16 degrees of timing with 9:1 compression. This can be accomplished using your stock ecu with an afc and upgraded injectors. As long as the car is tuned to the correct air/fuel ratio this can be accomplished with 93 octane pump gas. Our stage III kit produces 350hp to the wheels on a GSR @ 14psi with that setup. Now, as far the stock compression is concerned, you can run stock timing up to 9 psi safely. Now I don't recommend running 9psi on stock compression because the ring lands on the stock pistons just aren't strong enough, but the timing will not be an issue at that boost level.
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept
abid@sfp.net
Tech Dept
Member
i didn't know b16a2's had a 8100 redline?
Honda-Tech Member
hm.. interesting. I had a hatch with a JDM b18c and a dragIII kit. I retarded the timing 4 degrees to prevent detonation... you're saying the only problem with this is not the timing, but the weak internals? I wish I would have known the before I got rid of that car... it was quick as it was.
sorry, was 100rpm off
redline is 8200...geez..honda-tech members are soo picky!
thanks,
mike
redline is 8200...geez..honda-tech members are soo picky!thanks,
mike