I jus pulled out some pm7 rods/pistons from a first gen Teg, does anyone have any advice on cleaning them to get a nice baremetal look. Are there any products out there that i can soak them in for a while to get all the baked on oil off? I was thinking of buying some brake cleaner in bulk and have the pistons soak in that. Do u think paint stripper will harm the pistons? Of course i will give it a good buffer after all is done.

 

Ive been googling around and theres a product called Chem-dip. Does anyone have past experience with this product?

 

That sounds like the old carb dip, not many carbs on the road, maybe they changed the name, that stuff was great.

 

machine shop if needed they know what to do

 

loosen the carbon buildup in the ring grooves with an old pisston ring then take them to a machine shop and have them hot tank them doesnt cost much

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Khmerican &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive been googling around and theres a product called Chem-dip. Does anyone have past experience with this product?</TD></TR></TABLE>

that chemical works wonders.. just becareful wear gloves,mask and goggles make sure you do this outside on a ventilated area. close lid when not in use.

 

Well first of all, the rods shouldn't have any build up. They don't get hot enough to break down the oil and have it bake on, and they don't come in contact with burning fuel. Generally, used rods come out looking like new.

As far as chem dip, I've never had success with it removing carbon. I've even soaked exhaust valves in chem dip for a week, and it didn't loosen the carbon at all.

The best way to remove carbon from the dome is with a paint-stripping wheel for a rotary tool (looks like a brillo pad). But I wouldn't worry about that anyway because carbon is a thermal insulator, so a carbon coated dome would probably do more good than bad.

As stated, to remove the gunk in the ringlands, use the old rings to run through the grooves and clean everything out. You definitely want the ringlands to be clean.

 

Carbon on the piston head is bad, it increases compression which increases chances of preignition when it glows red hot from a lean fuel mixture. Dont scratch the face cleaning it or the scratches will cause hot spots and glow red hot and do the same thing. The brillo scotch brite material is fine on a die grinder or drill type of cleaning disc. Get a can of engine oil large enough to lightly cook the oil in, make it about 200 degrees to thin it out, dip the assembled piston and rod and wrist pin assy into the hot oil , remove it and move the piston around the wrist pin to get oil into the wrist pin area to lube it up so the rod bushing and the piston do not stick to it on initial engine start. If the pin was pressed in then only the piston to pin will get lubed this way, the rod bushing will be too tight. A full floater will lube everything. You can spray cleaner excess oil from the top area of the piston to minimize smoke on start up.