wondering if any allmotor guys were running egt's and if so at the runner or the collector and whats your temps.

 

I was wondering the same thing and have posted a couple of messages... but no one has ever replied yet. I am all motor and will be running an EGT for sure. I don't want to be leaning out!! I also was wondering what the normal temps were... At idle..
During normal accelleration..
And at WOT..

I've been told that if you are running an EGT that you would put the sensor in the runner... about 6 inches off the head.. Don't quote me on that but I think that is what you do.

To further this conversation... Which runner? I have heard #1 and I have heard #3. I personally think either #2 or #3 just because with working on motorcycles... jetting the carbs requires 2 different size needles. This is because the 2 inner cylinders naturally hold in more heat which require more fuel to compensate. But I don't know if that holds true for fuel injected motors.

I am currently working on trying to build/design my own EGT setup which would be monitoring all cylinders and would be able to see any cylinder with the touch of a button. Haven't put much time in on it yet but most likely more when summer hits.

 

Cylinder #3, here is why...

You need to account for the cooling system. If you didn't accound for the cooling system cylinders #2 & #3 would have very similar temperatures.

You have the coolest temperature of your coolant just as the coolant enters the head, it happens to enter the head in close proximity to cylinder #2, by the time the coolant reaches the #3 cylinder it has already been heated by cylinder #1, and #2, thus #3 cylinder has hot coolant trying to cool it down(which doesn't work all that well) it then leaves by cylinder #4. This is important because cylinders 1 and 4 are on the side of the block, therefore only have one cylinder next to it firing, thus they should have a relatively low cylinder temperature. Cylinder #2 has the benifit of colder coolant cooling it off, and should have a cooler cylinder temperature than #3 and therefore being the cylinder that you would want to tap for you EGT.

Austin

 

yeah tahts good to know i was going to hook it up to cylinder number 1 thanks for the info.

 

all motor temps from the #3 primary shouldn;t go past 1350F

greg

 

Thanks for the information... I knew there was a more exact reason but I didn't know what exactly it was. Now we are all a little smarter. Thank you again

 

I don't know if you can generalize a "max" temperature, as these safe temps are determined by the internals of your motor. I assume there is a max for a stock motor, but forged internals w/ better-than-stock valves should have a higher melting point. heat = power, the more the better before you melt stuff.

 

It is hard to generalize what all cars are going to read as far as the EGT temperature because not all cars are going to have the same components whether it is all motor or forced inducted/nitrous enhanced. Even it the same cars have the same components there are still going to be some differences, much like a finger print. The only true way you are going to know if your own personal car is at the optmal teperatue if to compare it with an A/F guage (Air/Fuel). I don't mean a an Auto Meter or Cyberdyne gauge but something more of a wide band A/F meter equipped with a digital reading. Once you find out what the A/F meter is reading, you can compare it to the EGT gauge to see where you are at, then you can adjust the car according how the A/F is reading. Then you can gauge your EGT to see if you need to make a lean or rich adjustment.