I searched andd didnt find what i was looking for. my 96 EK coupe was sitting on KYB agx with progress springs and fell within -2deg camber on all 4 (+/- .1deg) and she handled amazing. a local shop tells me -.75 front and -2 rear, However i see track rigs that run inverse #'s where the front is at like -4 deg and the rear is at -1. I know -4 deg is completely unreasonable for street but should there be more neg camber in the front, or in the rear? and if i am doing high speed northeastwern mountain road driving as well as city driving, what should my #'s be? I want to keep the car as neutral as poss. next week the entire suspension is going to change. doing tokico illuminas (a new set), progress springs and a set of te37's, 16". oops, this car is a 96 DC2 GS-r.

so... the question to the pros is where would you set your car in my shoes?

 

still lookin for help

 

The numbers that the shop gave you are incredibly stupid. Never go back there again.

The end of the car that is heavier will need more negative camber to be neutral with the rear. -2 degrees is too much as you will rarely be causing that much deflection on the street.

No one can give you any good numbers without tire temperature readings gathered in a controlled environment. And even then, the numbers will change as the track and conditions change. That being said, the general rule is that you should at least run the max negative camber allowed to be within factory specs, I think it's -1.3, and no more than -1.75 on the front and slightly less like -1.5 on the rear.

I'm not a professional.

 

i'm not one either but there is a great article in the March/April issue 4 of tuner performance report on suspension setup etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The numbers that the shop gave you are incredibly stupid. Never go back there again.

The end of the car that is heavier will need more negative camber to be neutral with the rear. -2 degrees is too much as you will rarely be causing that much deflection on the street.

No one can give you any good numbers without tire temperature readings gathered in a controlled environment. And even then, the numbers will change as the track and conditions change. That being said, the general rule is that you should at least run the max negative camber allowed to be within factory specs, I think it's -1.3, and no more than -1.75 on the front and slightly less like -1.5 on the rear.

I'm not a professional.</TD></TR></TABLE>


if you are on theh east coast, and i mention the name of the shop, jaws would drop. so for the sake of all that is fair, i keep my mouth shut

 

hit up B18C5eh2 on this board, he aligns cars all day long and has plenty of suspension goodies in his ITR-powered 5th gen hatch. I'm sure he can help you determine some good alignment specs.