Air from oil cap = normal?
I was just wondering if it was normal for air to come out of the oil cap while it idle'd? Its not that much air...My d16z6 has about 180k and my compression test showed 165, 180, 160, 165...I also checked my pcv and it was still making that clicking/rattling noise when i shook it...
Not sure what else to do or if its normal...I guess i never noticed it before...Also, what are normal comp. numbers for a 180K mile d16z6..some people said that my comp was low...
Thanks for any input..
Not sure what else to do or if its normal...I guess i never noticed it before...Also, what are normal comp. numbers for a 180K mile d16z6..some people said that my comp was low...
Thanks for any input..
That's just blowby gases from the crank case. It's normal.
Did you keep the number of cranks the same. Just becasue one engine has higher numbers than yours doesn't mean your engine is bad. What you need to look for is the difference on all 4 cylinders. The rule of thumb is 20% and remember that you need to keep the # of cranks the same at least 6. your percentage is only 8% between highest and lowest. The first puff is the most inportant one, it should be half of the final reading. if not you have a weak piston.
The pcv rattle test does let you know if the pcv is still good but that's only half the test. The spring tension in there could also be weak so if it's been a long time since you replace it; i'd replace it anyways if still rattles. But heres another test to check the pcv system. While the engine is idling remove the oil cap and place a 3x5 card on top of the hole. There should be a slight vacuum in the crankcase to hold the card there. It will vibrate a little but it should stay. If it doesn't than you need to inspect your pcv system.
Did you keep the number of cranks the same. Just becasue one engine has higher numbers than yours doesn't mean your engine is bad. What you need to look for is the difference on all 4 cylinders. The rule of thumb is 20% and remember that you need to keep the # of cranks the same at least 6. your percentage is only 8% between highest and lowest. The first puff is the most inportant one, it should be half of the final reading. if not you have a weak piston.
The pcv rattle test does let you know if the pcv is still good but that's only half the test. The spring tension in there could also be weak so if it's been a long time since you replace it; i'd replace it anyways if still rattles. But heres another test to check the pcv system. While the engine is idling remove the oil cap and place a 3x5 card on top of the hole. There should be a slight vacuum in the crankcase to hold the card there. It will vibrate a little but it should stay. If it doesn't than you need to inspect your pcv system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The first puff is the most inportant one, it should be half of the final reading. if not you have a weak piston.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok i understand the other things and i'll check it out tomorrow...I dont understand that part though...I did 5 cranks like what c-speedracing said for all four...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok i understand the other things and i'll check it out tomorrow...I dont understand that part though...I did 5 cranks like what c-speedracing said for all four...
I'll try to explain it as best as I can to you. The first puff is the hardest for the cylinder to create a vacuum to suck air into the cylinder. The rest of the cranks have the velocity of the air compacting the air molecules closer together, meaning more air can get in. Thats why the rest of the puffs move the needle up little by little. So the more air tight the cylinder is the more air it can suck air in. This rule is just something I was taught in Honda School, well pretty much in any Auto class.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sleepN »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The pcv rattle test does let you know if the pcv is still good but that's only half the test. The spring tension in there could also be weak so if it's been a long time since you replace it; i'd replace it anyways if still rattles. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Good point- people tend to forget that part.
Good point- people tend to forget that part.
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