Air Bypass valve for cai
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 11,440
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From: Richmond, Va, usa
Air Bypass valve for cai
i just ordered an aem cai and i was wondering if its absolutely necessary to buy the airbypass valve to prevent hydrolock. Just wondering because i don't wanna blow 40 bucks when i don't have to.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,089
Likes: 1
From: Trinidad, W.I.
Re: Air Bypass valve for cai (Gravity)
Get it... it's saved my motor more than once... and the one day I got caught w/o a bypass on when it rained... my car hydrolocked (no **** !)
It works, and I can assure you that, first hand... might not be 100% fool proof... but I think $40 is worth your motor.
X2
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Po Dunk, TN, United States
Re: Air Bypass valve for cai (98DC2)
ive got a bypass valve if you want to buy it, i'll sell it to you for 20 dollars plus shipping, it was on my car for about a week. if you decide to get one let me know something
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 5,089
Likes: 1
From: Trinidad, W.I.
Re: Air Bypass valve for cai (hybridreams)
No... whoever told you that is talking out of their azz.....
Here, I'll tell you how it works...
The valve is basically a plastic mold with a rubber insert that connects on either end to the CAI tubing.... contrary to AEMs claim, the byapss will work with any similarly sized intake tubing. But it MUST form a complete seal on both ends of the valve.
The valve's outer surface is surrounded by some thin foam that acts as a filter of sorts and also protects the parts inside.
Inside of the valve is (from outside-in):
First off... the valve looks like a vertical clam shell with multiple, identically sized holes cut into the sides. A rubber ring, with a series of cut flaps that extend about 1.5 inches down from the spine of the valve. The rubber is formed into a specific original shape (think Vee) and then backed by a foam insulator that acts as a 'spring'. The newer valves (2nd generation) which are identified by an Alpha symbol after the part number, have a plastic ring clip inserted under the foam that aids in holding the rubber/foam pieces in place under all conditions.
Under regular engine conditions, even WOT, the rubber flaps remain pinned against the inside of the valve, sealing it closed. However, when water fills the lower portion of the tubing, and the motor is still trying to suck in air... physics take over.
As the water fills the tube, it becomes harder for the motor to pull up the liquid... forming more of a vaccum (low pressure zone) between the water surface and the IM. And since the outside atmosphere has a higher air pressure, air would rush in thru the bypass valve's flaps to equalize the pressure in the 'vaccum', preventing the water from reaching the IM, yet still supplying the IM with air for combustion. (Yes, at this point, there will be a drop in air consumption and Hp) When the water has emptied from the tube... the bypass valve's flaps shut.... Quite ingenious actually.
Oh... and too boot, due to Cali's pollution laws, AEM could not use adhesives in production, so they used a pretty sophisticated process of 'Sonic Welding' to join the rubber to the plastic inside of the valve... no glue !
HTH
X2
Here, I'll tell you how it works...
The valve is basically a plastic mold with a rubber insert that connects on either end to the CAI tubing.... contrary to AEMs claim, the byapss will work with any similarly sized intake tubing. But it MUST form a complete seal on both ends of the valve.
The valve's outer surface is surrounded by some thin foam that acts as a filter of sorts and also protects the parts inside.
Inside of the valve is (from outside-in):
First off... the valve looks like a vertical clam shell with multiple, identically sized holes cut into the sides. A rubber ring, with a series of cut flaps that extend about 1.5 inches down from the spine of the valve. The rubber is formed into a specific original shape (think Vee) and then backed by a foam insulator that acts as a 'spring'. The newer valves (2nd generation) which are identified by an Alpha symbol after the part number, have a plastic ring clip inserted under the foam that aids in holding the rubber/foam pieces in place under all conditions.
Under regular engine conditions, even WOT, the rubber flaps remain pinned against the inside of the valve, sealing it closed. However, when water fills the lower portion of the tubing, and the motor is still trying to suck in air... physics take over.
As the water fills the tube, it becomes harder for the motor to pull up the liquid... forming more of a vaccum (low pressure zone) between the water surface and the IM. And since the outside atmosphere has a higher air pressure, air would rush in thru the bypass valve's flaps to equalize the pressure in the 'vaccum', preventing the water from reaching the IM, yet still supplying the IM with air for combustion. (Yes, at this point, there will be a drop in air consumption and Hp) When the water has emptied from the tube... the bypass valve's flaps shut.... Quite ingenious actually.
Oh... and too boot, due to Cali's pollution laws, AEM could not use adhesives in production, so they used a pretty sophisticated process of 'Sonic Welding' to join the rubber to the plastic inside of the valve... no glue !
HTH
X2
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 8,651
Likes: 3
From: Dallas, Tejas
Re: Air Bypass valve for cai (X2BOARD)
No... whoever told you that is talking out of their azz.....
Here, I'll tell you how it works...
The valve is basically a plastic mold with a rubber insert that connects on either end to the CAI tubing.... contrary to AEMs claim, the byapss will work with any similarly sized intake tubing. But it MUST form a complete seal on both ends of the valve.
The valve's outer surface is surrounded by some thin foam that acts as a filter of sorts and also protects the parts inside.
Inside of the valve is (from outside-in):
First off... the valve looks like a vertical clam shell with multiple, identically sized holes cut into the sides. A rubber ring, with a series of cut flaps that extend about 1.5 inches down from the spine of the valve. The rubber is formed into a specific original shape (think Vee) and then backed by a foam insulator that acts as a 'spring'. The newer valves (2nd generation) which are identified by an Alpha symbol after the part number, have a plastic ring clip inserted under the foam that aids in holding the rubber/foam pieces in place under all conditions.
Under regular engine conditions, even WOT, the rubber flaps remain pinned against the inside of the valve, sealing it closed. However, when water fills the lower portion of the tubing, and the motor is still trying to suck in air... physics take over.
As the water fills the tube, it becomes harder for the motor to pull up the liquid... forming more of a vaccum (low pressure zone) between the water surface and the IM. And since the outside atmosphere has a higher air pressure, air would rush in thru the bypass valve's flaps to equalize the pressure in the 'vaccum', preventing the water from reaching the IM, yet still supplying the IM with air for combustion. (Yes, at this point, there will be a drop in air consumption and Hp) When the water has emptied from the tube... the bypass valve's flaps shut.... Quite ingenious actually.
Oh... and too boot, due to Cali's pollution laws, AEM could not use adhesives in production, so they used a pretty sophisticated process of 'Sonic Welding' to join the rubber to the plastic inside of the valve... no glue !
HTH
X2
Here, I'll tell you how it works...
The valve is basically a plastic mold with a rubber insert that connects on either end to the CAI tubing.... contrary to AEMs claim, the byapss will work with any similarly sized intake tubing. But it MUST form a complete seal on both ends of the valve.
The valve's outer surface is surrounded by some thin foam that acts as a filter of sorts and also protects the parts inside.
Inside of the valve is (from outside-in):
First off... the valve looks like a vertical clam shell with multiple, identically sized holes cut into the sides. A rubber ring, with a series of cut flaps that extend about 1.5 inches down from the spine of the valve. The rubber is formed into a specific original shape (think Vee) and then backed by a foam insulator that acts as a 'spring'. The newer valves (2nd generation) which are identified by an Alpha symbol after the part number, have a plastic ring clip inserted under the foam that aids in holding the rubber/foam pieces in place under all conditions.
Under regular engine conditions, even WOT, the rubber flaps remain pinned against the inside of the valve, sealing it closed. However, when water fills the lower portion of the tubing, and the motor is still trying to suck in air... physics take over.
As the water fills the tube, it becomes harder for the motor to pull up the liquid... forming more of a vaccum (low pressure zone) between the water surface and the IM. And since the outside atmosphere has a higher air pressure, air would rush in thru the bypass valve's flaps to equalize the pressure in the 'vaccum', preventing the water from reaching the IM, yet still supplying the IM with air for combustion. (Yes, at this point, there will be a drop in air consumption and Hp) When the water has emptied from the tube... the bypass valve's flaps shut.... Quite ingenious actually.
Oh... and too boot, due to Cali's pollution laws, AEM could not use adhesives in production, so they used a pretty sophisticated process of 'Sonic Welding' to join the rubber to the plastic inside of the valve... no glue !
HTH
X2
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