? about B20vtec???
If I already have a B16, what is needed to be done to the B20 block for the conversion.
this will be going in a 4th gen hatch, which already has the B16.
another few questions.....
About how much should it cost me to build the block before I do this? It will be built for Boost, so i will want low commpression. Maybe even a block guard. just to be a little safe. I only want to run around 15 to 18 lbs.
and, What have you B20 peeps spent to build one, if you want to share and what is your set up, N/A and forced inducted people.
thanks alot, this will be appriciated
Justin
this will be going in a 4th gen hatch, which already has the B16.
another few questions.....
About how much should it cost me to build the block before I do this? It will be built for Boost, so i will want low commpression. Maybe even a block guard. just to be a little safe. I only want to run around 15 to 18 lbs.
and, What have you B20 peeps spent to build one, if you want to share and what is your set up, N/A and forced inducted people.
thanks alot, this will be appriciated
Justin
Im in the exact same situation
I have a 1990 hatch that already has a B16 in it as well. I wanna get a b20 block and boost the hell out of it! What i have been told the block goes right in but may want to upgrade the ecu. But im curious to what other poeple would say as well.......
I have a 1990 hatch that already has a B16 in it as well. I wanna get a b20 block and boost the hell out of it! What i have been told the block goes right in but may want to upgrade the ecu. But im curious to what other poeple would say as well.......
The mods necessary for a frankenstein engine are done to the head. You have to plug a hole and put a fitting on another, enlarge 2 holes for the shuffle pins. Its nice to have vtec water and oil pumps. I've heard the b20 has the vtec version of both but I dont know for sure.
I suppose you'll want to have the block as built as its gonna get before you drop it in though.
I suppose you'll want to have the block as built as its gonna get before you drop it in though.
Just like was said before, the dowel pin holes have to be enlarged to fit the dowel pins. Regardless if the B20 water and oil pumps are the same as the VTEC counterparts, or if they are in good condition, replace them anyway, while the engine is out of the car and real easy to work on, there is no reason not to, if you can't afford a new water pump and oil pump, then you can't afford a hybrid motor.
Replace the rear main seal, re-hondabond everything, new oil pickup from Honda is not a bad decision either. Have the bearings sized properly. Use the Z10 oil fitting for the oil pump to run the VTEC oil line off of instead of tapping into the rear of the block. Shimming the oil pump spring is not worth the time unless you experience a severe drop in oil pressure, which you should not.
From there, the bottom end build should consist of sleeves, pistons, rods, and a balanced and polished crank. I say AEBS sleeves, rollerwave pistons, and Crower rods, but thats just my opinion.
As far as the head goes, the CRVTEC is known to benefit real well from head work, spend some money and time in this department. Do some research and find out what you want out of your car before getting top end work done. Going with turbo, stick with the stock cams, unless your willing to give one of the new turbo cams a try, but discuss that with your head porter, cause I don' t feel like getting into the pros and cons of overlap and duration right now.
Do the head work last, and have the combustion chamber diameter matched to the diameter of the cylinders.
And if you are going to run 15-18 psi, get springs and retainers also, letting a valve loose is not a pretty site, you will need to get tuning also, keep that in mind.
blah blah blah
Replace the rear main seal, re-hondabond everything, new oil pickup from Honda is not a bad decision either. Have the bearings sized properly. Use the Z10 oil fitting for the oil pump to run the VTEC oil line off of instead of tapping into the rear of the block. Shimming the oil pump spring is not worth the time unless you experience a severe drop in oil pressure, which you should not.
From there, the bottom end build should consist of sleeves, pistons, rods, and a balanced and polished crank. I say AEBS sleeves, rollerwave pistons, and Crower rods, but thats just my opinion.
As far as the head goes, the CRVTEC is known to benefit real well from head work, spend some money and time in this department. Do some research and find out what you want out of your car before getting top end work done. Going with turbo, stick with the stock cams, unless your willing to give one of the new turbo cams a try, but discuss that with your head porter, cause I don' t feel like getting into the pros and cons of overlap and duration right now.
Do the head work last, and have the combustion chamber diameter matched to the diameter of the cylinders.
And if you are going to run 15-18 psi, get springs and retainers also, letting a valve loose is not a pretty site, you will need to get tuning also, keep that in mind.
blah blah blah
It will be built for Boost, so i will want low commpression. Maybe even a block guard. just to be a little safe. I only want to run around 15 to 18 lbs.
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I plan on building it, i was just questioning the block guard, because there have actually been some good results on boosted novtec blocks. There happens to be one that is running 20 lbs on a stock ls block with guard. I would not do that but that was pretty cool.
I plan on sleeving it now, and that is 15 to 18 on the streets. The track will be different, It will also be getting a VictorX manifold and an Autronic or Tec standalone.
I also have a contact that does outstanding head work. He is a domestic guy that has been working on imports here and there. But does a great job.
oh well thanks guys for the help, and keep it up
Justin
I plan on sleeving it now, and that is 15 to 18 on the streets. The track will be different, It will also be getting a VictorX manifold and an Autronic or Tec standalone.
I also have a contact that does outstanding head work. He is a domestic guy that has been working on imports here and there. But does a great job.
oh well thanks guys for the help, and keep it up
Justin
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