okay it started right after I changed my transmission out when a few of my gears stopped working.. The new tranny I purchased worked perfectly fine as did the speed sensor until a month down the road the speed sensor seemed to be malfunctioning so I replaced it.

After replacing the sensor everything seemed to work perfect until this past Friday I left my house and right when I rolled out of my garage my Needle on my Speedcluster started wiggin out and went crazy from 140MPH back to 0mph..

I thought it might've been a dirty connecter so I went to autozone and purchased some CRC connector cleaner, cleaned it out real well and put some dielectric grease in the plug.. it worked for about 5-10 miles then the gauge cluster started doing it again..

question is, is there anyway i can check the wires coming off of the speed sensor connecter to see if all the wires are still good? i have access to a fluke 88 here at my tech-school and i have the needle probes i can shove down into the connector


also, if someone has a diagram for the VSS connector wires and what the wires are supposed to read on the DVM with the ignition off or on LMK please!


Modified by ohsnapzafingcu at 8:38 AM 9/8/2008


Modified by ohsnapzafingcu at 10:08 PM 9/9/2008

 

The gauge cluster has sort of a (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) built into it and this speaks to the PCM/ECU (Main Computer) regarding the speed of the vehicle, when the guage cluster goes bad in anyway it starts to do crazy things like what you describe, including loss of tach, speedo, dash lights, P/N/R/D/D3/D2/D1 indicator LEDs ect. On Honda's anytime the orginal wiring is messed with while the car is still connected to the battery it can fry components at random the many various MICUs that are installed in Hondas tend to get the brunt of the pain.

The ODB/II codes tend to lead people to Vehicle Speed Sensors or Range Switches, and their associated wire harnesses, but in fact it's the MICU that is trowing these codes most of the time leading the owner into thinking they have a ground shorting out or wild wire somewhere not speaking correctly which is unlikely if the car has never been tampered with. Use of a little common sense leads you to think it must be a sensor or drivetrain component but a lot of times it is the main electronics that are behind these symptoms.

All Data DIY has what you are looking for, now I understand you have to subscribe to this so you have a few options, it costs $24.95 a year to get access to everything you ever wanted to see with photos etc. or you can find another member who has this exact car listed and have them supply you with the test diagnostic flow chart along with the wire diagrams for the connector blocks.

Once you get this you can rule out the wiring as the source problem, but check e-bay for gauge cluster replacements that are not used but OEM replacement parts because there is no one I know of that will guarantee these type of components unless they are reman, or new. And you could get a replacement at a local junk yard that might have the same defect in it as the one you have.

Start with the testing of the wire harness unless you are short on time try changing out the gauge cluster it should solve your problem without you having to diagnose your wiring.

JK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kalisjr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gauge cluster has sort of a (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit) built into it and this speaks to the PCM/ECU (Main Computer) regarding the speed of the vehicle, when the guage cluster goes bad in anyway it starts to do crazy things like what you describe, including loss of tach, speedo, dash lights, P/N/R/D/D3/D2/D1 indicator LEDs ect. On Honda's anytime the orginal wiring is messed with while the car is still connected to the battery it can fry components at random the many various MICUs that are installed in Hondas tend to get the brunt of the pain.

The ODB/II codes tend to lead people to Vehicle Speed Sensors or Range Switches, and their associated wire harnesses, but in fact it's the MICU that is trowing these codes most of the time leading the owner into thinking they have a ground shorting out or wild wire somewhere not speaking correctly which is unlikely if the car has never been tampered with. Use of a little common sense leads you to think it must be a sensor or drivetrain component but a lot of times it is the main electronics that are behind these symptoms.

All Data DIY has what you are looking for, now I understand you have to subscribe to this so you have a few options, it costs $24.95 a year to get access to everything you ever wanted to see with photos etc. or you can find another member who has this exact car listed and have them supply you with the test diagnostic flow chart along with the wire diagrams for the connector blocks.

Once you get this you can rule out the wiring as the source problem, but check e-bay for gauge cluster replacements that are not used but OEM replacement parts because there is no one I know of that will guarantee these type of components unless they are reman, or new. And you could get a replacement at a local junk yard that might have the same defect in it as the one you have.

Start with the testing of the wire harness unless you are short on time try changing out the gauge cluster it should solve your problem without you having to diagnose your wiring.

JK</TD></TR></TABLE>

i actually have ALL DATA access at my tech school, i was on it this morning and printed a pic that shows me how to check the VSS, but i need sort of a connector extention that has three free wires that i can test..

but you said get on ALL DATA and find out how to test my gauge cluster, is that correct?

 

so i changed out my cluster with one that is for sure KNOWN TO WORK. and still the same thing, speedo doesn't work..

but when i accelerate really hard (WOT) the speed needle starts going crazy and will bounce around for awhile and eventually read 0 MPH..

i'm thinking it might be something electrical with the alternator, or somewhere in the speedo wires something is messed up..

an alarm was recently installed in my car with wire taps and inline connectors, TEE's. nothing was soldered. is there a possibility the alarm wires could've messed something up?

 

BUMP DANGIT! i need my speedo working, nothing is working out for me!

 

sounds like the alternator/vss fuse popped... very common in EKs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20Monster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the alternator/vss fuse popped... very common in EKs</TD></TR></TABLE>

really? i'll have to check it. ha! i did have a loose wire the other day

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20Monster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like the alternator/vss fuse popped... very common in EKs</TD></TR></TABLE>


if my alternator fuse popped wouldn't my car eventually die? i drive about 50-60 miles a day and the car runs good, and i have my stereo going and my rader.. if the alternator was dead i think the car might be dead already..

where is that stupid alternator/vss fuse anyway? i've searched around for it and it doesn't show on the fuse panal or anythingg. FTWWW