I'm tearing off my gsr head, anyone know the quick procedure for it? The engine is mounted on a stand, the headers are off. Should I take off the IM before taking the head off or it's ok to leave it on there? In addition, when will I take off the oil orifices and the lost motion assemblies?How many of them? after I take off the rockers? And do I need to soak both of those in oil? I know how to take off a head, but I'm not familar with the VTEC components, so please direct me on when I take off the oil orifices and the lost motion assemblies.thank you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm tearing off my gsr head, anyone know the quick procedure for it?

-- there is no 'quick procedure' for head removal. Only quick way is if you're a quick worker.

The engine is mounted on a stand, the headers are off. Should I take off the IM before taking the head off or it's ok to leave it on there?

-- its up to you, but the IM is handy to leave on since its like a handle when you take the head off.

In addition, when will I take off the oil orifices and the lost motion assemblies?

-- if you're just taking the head off, you don't need to remove the LMA's, unless you're planning to replace them. The oil orafice in the block should stay in the block, it doesn't quite come out when you remove the head.

You'll need to obviously loosen up all of the 12mm bolts holding down the oil rails/cam journals & the 10mm bolts on the outter perimeter of the cam journals.

here's a diagram of the oil rails (cam journals are sandwiched underneath the rails):



here's the head torque sequence for when you put the head back on:



How many of them? after I take off the rockers? And do I need to soak both of those in oil?

--- heh, you dont need to take the rocker assembly off at all, just the oil rails, cams & cam journals. Once those are off, the 14mm head bolts/studs will be exposed and you can loosen them all up.

I know how to take off a head, but I'm not familar with the VTEC components, so please direct me on when I take off the oil orifices and the lost motion assemblies.

-- just did.
There's nothing special you need to look out for on a B-series VTEC head. Just remove the oil rails, cam journals & cams and you'll be able to see the head studs. Thats it...its that easy.

thank you

-- yer welcome. woot.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

dam, great diagrams. thanks a lot

 

hey katman, my 95 gsr motor came with wiring harness but the guy who pulled out the motor hacked up the wiring. It's the plugs the plug into the passenger shock tower, he cut between the plugs and the engine wiring harness. I want to know if I re solder all the wires without extending it, which will reduce about 1 inch of wiring, do you think the plugs will still reach the shock towers in a EG? If it wont reach I will be extending it. Please let me know so I can get started thanks

 

is there a diagram i can get for an LS head removal?

 

up...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iloveintegras &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a diagram i can get for an LS head removal?</TD></TR></TABLE> helms manual

 

You won't need to remove anything beyond the camshafts. The rocker arms, rocker arm shafts, LMA's, and valves/springs all don't get touched if you're just removing the head.

When you remove the head, don't forget that you have an o-ring and dowel pin on the center cam cap that can fall out if you flip the head upside-down.

If you're disassembling the head, get a bunch of plastic sandwich bags. Keep track of where everything goes by labeling the bags (IN or EX, and which cyl).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey katman, my 95 gsr motor came with wiring harness but the guy who pulled out the motor hacked up the wiring. It's the plugs the plug into the passenger shock tower, he cut between the plugs and the engine wiring harness. I want to know if I re solder all the wires without extending it, which will reduce about 1 inch of wiring, do you think the plugs will still reach the shock towers in a EG? If it wont reach I will be extending it. Please let me know so I can get started thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>I know this was intended for Katman but I should be able to tell ya a bit... The connectors will all still reach if only about an inch of the harness is gone... However, I on the other hand would take the time extend them back to their original length... I'm pretty sure that I have O.C.D. which I don't know is a good thing or bad... When it comes to wiring and motor building everything has to be absolutely perfect (as in OE or cleaner) or i won't be happy with it... If you end up extending the wires we know that you would have to solder 2 times the amount of wires you are already doing which is twice what you would if you didn't extend them... In my case I WOULD do it... I would also remove all of the stock looming, you have to remember that wire colors are used more than once and simply matching color has a pretty good possibilty for ERROR... Good Luck and let me know if you need anything else... Peace

 

yea I get what you're saying about returning everything to the original lenth, I might as well extend it. Could you happen to check which wires uses the same color? You have the helms manual for a 94,95 gsr? Also, for the vtec wires couldn't I at the same time soldering wires back and add wires directly to ecu? My EG is a 92, I heard 92 has the wiring on the chassis already? But I might be missing the knock sensor and IAB? thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HKSone &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea I get what you're saying about returning everything to the original lenth, I might as well extend it. Could you happen to check which wires uses the same color? You have the helms manual for a 94,95 gsr? Also, for the vtec wires couldn't I at the same time soldering wires back and add wires directly to ecu? My EG is a 92, I heard 92 has the wiring on the chassis already? But I might be missing the knock sensor and IAB? thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yes, only 92 civics have embedded VTEC wiring in the underdash-to-shocktower plug(s). But not the KS; you have to wire the KS all by itself. So for instance, if you own a 92 CX/DX, all you gotta do is buy/trade a 92-95 EX/Si engine harness & plug it into the CX/DX and VTEC will will work (you need a vtec ecu of course).




Modified by Katman at 12:00 PM 4/21/2003

 

Hey Katman,
Do you know where I would get an ECU pin set? I know a lot of people just use ecu's that they have lying aroung in there garage, but I'd rather not tear up another ecu for a couple of pins. I think hasport sells them...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by All-motor_JDMB18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Katman,
Do you know where I would get an ECU pin set? I know a lot of people just use ecu's that they have lying aroung in there garage, but I'd rather not tear up another ecu for a couple of pins. I think hasport sells them...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have any spare ones myself. I just use pins off a junked ecu I have...when need be.

 

hey guys I got all the head bolts off motor already but what would be the safest way to part the head from the block? Where do I pry? I heard its not good to pry on the head/block mating surface? Also I had a hard time getting the cam caps/journals off, I tapped it will a rubber mallet but it didn't seem to work so I pryed right between the caps(between dowels) and it work but I dont think it was a good idea, it didn't hurt anything though. thanks

 

For pulling the head off you SHOULDN'T have to pry at all just lift it straight off... Sometimes it is nice to have the help of nother person but the head only weighs ~90lbs. (complete and you already have the valvecover, cam caps/rails, and cams out so it's just that much less) For getting those cam caps off i just take my time and wobble them by hand till they pop off... Doesn't tkae much more than that... If they are really really stuck sometimes you can rotate the cam and get them to pop... As for what you did, it's fine i just wouldn't recommend it... Peace

 

It always helps to have someone else helping you! If they know what there doing then you can get it done in half the time!

 

good info

 

Hey Katman!

Where did you get that information? Was it out of a Helms manual? You wouldn't happen to have anything on changing pistons would you?

Thanks

 

thanks a lot, still haven't had time to pull the head off yet.. but soon to be stripped!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by All-motor_JDMB18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Katman!

Where did you get that information? Was it out of a Helms manual? You wouldn't happen to have anything on changing pistons would you?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t....html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/t....html
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks!
I've seen that one before. I just couldn't remember where!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by All-motor_JDMB18C &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey Katman!

Where did you get that information? Was it out of a Helms manual? You wouldn't happen to have anything on changing pistons would you?

Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep, scanned it from a Helms manual. I think I have the piston removal/install info somewhere..need to look.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Katman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yep, scanned it from a Helms manual. I think I have the piston removal/install info somewhere..need to look.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you got it. I would really appreciate you posting it... Thanks! or send it to me at twelvesecb16a2@aol.com

 

hey any of you guys know if the ITR crank and rods will bolt right into a b18c1 gsr block? Any machining required? Also, how about the ITR tranny with lsd will those internals go into a gsr tranny case? I'm getting my motor rebuild and will get crank polished. I wanted a bottom end balance but i can't find a local shop that does it. Is there anything else that could be done to the bottom end to make it stronger or more effcient? Should get rods shotpeened? And what exactly is getting motor "blueprinted"??? thanks

 

All the ITR internals will go into the C1 block no problem... They are the exact same block, no machining required... As for the ITR tranny internals, they'll move over too... The ITR crank is the strongest OE B series crank you can get so I wouldn't worry too much about strength... You're just planning on running ITR pistons to, correct??? There is absolutely no need to shot peen the rods but doing so will make them a tad stronger... The last part blueprinting is what takes the most time and is really the most important... It's checking all clearances to set them within spec... This is everything from bearing clearances, crankshaft endplay, to cylinder/journal taper and out-of-round... That's actually what my favorite part of building a motor is... Just making everything ABSOLUTELY PERFECT... Good Luck!