95 b18c1 build up
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Sacramento, CA, usa
95 b18c1 build up
I have a couple of questions about my buildup on my b18c1, I'm gettin it rebuild with JDM itr pistons, all oem honda bearings, new oem gaskets. With pnp head along with jun type 3 cams. For the waterpump I am planning to use a 2000 itr/gsr pump, and im pretty sure it will bolt right on to my 95b18c1 with no modifications? \
For the oil pump I want to use a 2000 itr/gsr as well, but it is a updated pump that has a place for the CFK sensor, and i've heard it won't fit because the crank pulley is different, anyone know for sure? Also is there that much of a difference between the 94/95 gsr pump compared to the 2000 gsr/itr pump other then the place for the CFK sensor? Is the pump output the same?
I was told i should replace my headstuds to ARPs and the rodbolts with arp. Would those fit without modifications? Heard rods needed to resize for the rod bolts to fit, what exactly is done? Does the machine shop have to do it?
Up on the head, im adding a skunk2 IM with overboard JG 64mm throttle body, are skunk2IM carb legal yet? In addition a port and polish and valve job is going to be done. Would stainless steel valves benefit me? or just keep stock valves? Im gettings springs and retainer as well with the setup.
Since the motor is going into my 92 civic hatch, i would like it to work with my a/c so which exact a/c bracket would I need? whats the part#
As for the tranny I need the parts for me to put a LS fifth gear into a gsr tranny, know the complete parts? And are fidanza flywheels any good? I heard the screws on there could back out? Which flywheel is reccomend mostly for street use. For clutch im gettin an act or competition clutch..
Last, anything else is reccomended since the motor is apart now, before i put it in? Should I get new alternator or starter, my motor has 130k Are mugen or spoon themoswitch and thermostat worth the money?
I need a couple of parts to finish my project, I need:
94-up rs or gsr brakebooster with master cylinder
90-93 integra non-abs portportional valve
93-95 2door civic ex grey door panels with all switches
92-95 2door handles prefer white
new clutch for b18c1 prefer act
JDM itr pistons
new flywheel
a/c bracket for civic/b18c1 swap
92-95 white oem eg hatch front and rear bumpers
Jun valvetrain
new oem parts including bearings, headgaset/seals pumps etc
93-up delsol or 99si dohc vtec dual core radiator
Skunk2 IM for gsr
thanks
For the oil pump I want to use a 2000 itr/gsr as well, but it is a updated pump that has a place for the CFK sensor, and i've heard it won't fit because the crank pulley is different, anyone know for sure? Also is there that much of a difference between the 94/95 gsr pump compared to the 2000 gsr/itr pump other then the place for the CFK sensor? Is the pump output the same?
I was told i should replace my headstuds to ARPs and the rodbolts with arp. Would those fit without modifications? Heard rods needed to resize for the rod bolts to fit, what exactly is done? Does the machine shop have to do it?
Up on the head, im adding a skunk2 IM with overboard JG 64mm throttle body, are skunk2IM carb legal yet? In addition a port and polish and valve job is going to be done. Would stainless steel valves benefit me? or just keep stock valves? Im gettings springs and retainer as well with the setup.
Since the motor is going into my 92 civic hatch, i would like it to work with my a/c so which exact a/c bracket would I need? whats the part#
As for the tranny I need the parts for me to put a LS fifth gear into a gsr tranny, know the complete parts? And are fidanza flywheels any good? I heard the screws on there could back out? Which flywheel is reccomend mostly for street use. For clutch im gettin an act or competition clutch..
Last, anything else is reccomended since the motor is apart now, before i put it in? Should I get new alternator or starter, my motor has 130k Are mugen or spoon themoswitch and thermostat worth the money?
I need a couple of parts to finish my project, I need:
94-up rs or gsr brakebooster with master cylinder
90-93 integra non-abs portportional valve
93-95 2door civic ex grey door panels with all switches
92-95 2door handles prefer white
new clutch for b18c1 prefer act
JDM itr pistons
new flywheel
a/c bracket for civic/b18c1 swap
92-95 white oem eg hatch front and rear bumpers
Jun valvetrain
new oem parts including bearings, headgaset/seals pumps etc
93-up delsol or 99si dohc vtec dual core radiator
Skunk2 IM for gsr
thanks
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From: Boondocks, Northeast, USA
Yes, the ITR pumps will bolt directly onto the gsr. The oil pump will bolt on, I have no idea what the CFK sensor is about, but the flow rate is higher, and will keep a higher revving motor cooler.
ARP is the way to go, all the way around. Head bolts instead of studs, because its the whole bolt rather than a nut holding it down. Rod bolts, no idea what resizing is about either, but if so, any machine shop could do it in less than a day.
Stainless steel valves will work, but are overrated IMO. ITR springs may be a good idea, at least the outers while the head is going to be torn apart. Those should be fine without aftermarket cams.
For A/C, grab a p30 del sol a/c bracket. Not sure of the part number.
Fidanza flywheels are good, on some brands such as VWs, they can only fit on one way because of the bolt placements. Hard to compare the **** mobiles with rice burners tho. But if the rods are bolted to the correct torque setting, they will be fine. Any street clutch will work, a 6 puck is not the way to go, very stiff and aggressive pedal.
mugen thermostats open at a lower degree level to keep the engine cooler, a good buy IMO. hondata intake manifold gaskets also have shown gains of a few ponies.
If it were me, I'd throw in a set of decent cams while everything is apart. Maybe higher comp pistons.
hth
ARP is the way to go, all the way around. Head bolts instead of studs, because its the whole bolt rather than a nut holding it down. Rod bolts, no idea what resizing is about either, but if so, any machine shop could do it in less than a day.
Stainless steel valves will work, but are overrated IMO. ITR springs may be a good idea, at least the outers while the head is going to be torn apart. Those should be fine without aftermarket cams.
For A/C, grab a p30 del sol a/c bracket. Not sure of the part number.
Fidanza flywheels are good, on some brands such as VWs, they can only fit on one way because of the bolt placements. Hard to compare the **** mobiles with rice burners tho. But if the rods are bolted to the correct torque setting, they will be fine. Any street clutch will work, a 6 puck is not the way to go, very stiff and aggressive pedal.
mugen thermostats open at a lower degree level to keep the engine cooler, a good buy IMO. hondata intake manifold gaskets also have shown gains of a few ponies.
If it were me, I'd throw in a set of decent cams while everything is apart. Maybe higher comp pistons.
hth
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA, usa
Re: (zensoku207)
[QUOTE=zensoku207]Yes, the ITR pumps will bolt directly onto the gsr. The oil pump will bolt on, I have no idea what the CFK sensor is about, but the flow rate is higher, and will keep a higher revving motor cooler.
ARP is the way to go, all the way around. Head bolts instead of studs, because its the whole bolt rather than a nut holding it down. Rod bolts, no idea what resizing is about either, but if so, any machine shop could do it in less than a day.
Stainless steel valves will work, but are overrated IMO. ITR springs may be a good idea, at least the outers while the head is going to be torn apart. Those should be fine without aftermarket cams.
For A/C, grab a p30 del sol a/c bracket. Not sure of the part number.
Fidanza flywheels are good, on some brands such as VWs, they can only fit on one way because of the bolt placements. Hard to compare the **** mobiles with rice burners tho. But if the rods are bolted to the correct torque setting, they will be fine. Any street clutch will work, a 6 puck is not the way to go, very stiff and aggressive pedal.
mugen thermostats open at a lower degree level to keep the engine cooler, a good buy IMO. hondata intake manifold gaskets also have shown gains of a few ponies.
If it were me, I'd throw in a set of decent cams while everything is apart. Maybe higher comp pistons.
hth
zensoku, so the the 00 gsr/itr pump with bolt on with no modifcations on a 95 gsr motor? Dont have to get a different crank pulley? and are you positive? I just want to make sure that the pump works before i buy it and it ends up not fitting.
For the ARP headstuds/bolts, so it's different from the stock studs? It is replace but a stud, that screws into the block, and a bolt is used the hold the head down? If thats the case, how do i get the studs to screw down the block? I haven't seen the actually product so i wouldnt know.
So would I be fine with oem valves eventhough they're at 130k?, but I'll get the valves polished if i don't get new. but what improvements could I benefit from the stainless steel valves? I'm gettin new springs and retainers before i get the head assemled.
I would put decent cams and higher compression pistons, but I'm in california, and I need to get my car reffed, so I can't put much higher then the jdm itr pistons, and I need to smog the car with gsr cams before I get new ones. I guess i'm going to pick up a hondata gasket and the mugen thermostat,/thermoswitch, since its easier to replace it now. thanks for the info
ARP is the way to go, all the way around. Head bolts instead of studs, because its the whole bolt rather than a nut holding it down. Rod bolts, no idea what resizing is about either, but if so, any machine shop could do it in less than a day.
Stainless steel valves will work, but are overrated IMO. ITR springs may be a good idea, at least the outers while the head is going to be torn apart. Those should be fine without aftermarket cams.
For A/C, grab a p30 del sol a/c bracket. Not sure of the part number.
Fidanza flywheels are good, on some brands such as VWs, they can only fit on one way because of the bolt placements. Hard to compare the **** mobiles with rice burners tho. But if the rods are bolted to the correct torque setting, they will be fine. Any street clutch will work, a 6 puck is not the way to go, very stiff and aggressive pedal.
mugen thermostats open at a lower degree level to keep the engine cooler, a good buy IMO. hondata intake manifold gaskets also have shown gains of a few ponies.
If it were me, I'd throw in a set of decent cams while everything is apart. Maybe higher comp pistons.
hth
zensoku, so the the 00 gsr/itr pump with bolt on with no modifcations on a 95 gsr motor? Dont have to get a different crank pulley? and are you positive? I just want to make sure that the pump works before i buy it and it ends up not fitting.
For the ARP headstuds/bolts, so it's different from the stock studs? It is replace but a stud, that screws into the block, and a bolt is used the hold the head down? If thats the case, how do i get the studs to screw down the block? I haven't seen the actually product so i wouldnt know.
So would I be fine with oem valves eventhough they're at 130k?, but I'll get the valves polished if i don't get new. but what improvements could I benefit from the stainless steel valves? I'm gettin new springs and retainers before i get the head assemled.
I would put decent cams and higher compression pistons, but I'm in california, and I need to get my car reffed, so I can't put much higher then the jdm itr pistons, and I need to smog the car with gsr cams before I get new ones. I guess i'm going to pick up a hondata gasket and the mugen thermostat,/thermoswitch, since its easier to replace it now. thanks for the info
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