92 honda lx having starting problems
Hi there,
This is for a friend with a 92 honda lx 4 door automatic. It appears that it is not getting gas when he goes to start it. He recently had the fuel filter replaced about 5k miles ago. The problem usually is if he tries to restart the car after going to run errands. If he leaves the ignition key on for 10 to 15 secs before he cranks the car, it seems to help with starting the car.
What do u all think? He is getting spark. Could it be the fuel filter being clogged? Could it be the fuel pump going out? He only has 62k miles. He is also the original owner so we know the car has been well taken cared of. Could it be a bad fuel pressure regulator? I am not sure if N/A have fuel pressure regulators... Does anyone know if Honda's run 9/12 volt pump operation or is it just 12v? Does anyone know the correct jumper sequence in the diagnostic port for me to temporarly set the pump to 12v operation?
Thanks,
Sid
94 Honda VTEC Accord EX Coup 195k
95 Single Turbo Supra 574 RWHP
This is for a friend with a 92 honda lx 4 door automatic. It appears that it is not getting gas when he goes to start it. He recently had the fuel filter replaced about 5k miles ago. The problem usually is if he tries to restart the car after going to run errands. If he leaves the ignition key on for 10 to 15 secs before he cranks the car, it seems to help with starting the car.
What do u all think? He is getting spark. Could it be the fuel filter being clogged? Could it be the fuel pump going out? He only has 62k miles. He is also the original owner so we know the car has been well taken cared of. Could it be a bad fuel pressure regulator? I am not sure if N/A have fuel pressure regulators... Does anyone know if Honda's run 9/12 volt pump operation or is it just 12v? Does anyone know the correct jumper sequence in the diagnostic port for me to temporarly set the pump to 12v operation?
Thanks,
Sid
94 Honda VTEC Accord EX Coup 195k
95 Single Turbo Supra 574 RWHP
When the ignition is first turned on, listen for the faint hum from the fuel pump. It should last about two seconds and stop when the check engine light goes out. AFAIK, the pump runs only on 12 volts. If you don't hear the pump and the engine fails to start, I would suspect the main relay.
Another cause of no starts on warm engines is either a faulty TW sensor, or air in the cooling system. Both situations can cause the ECU to think the engine is cold, and as a result floods the engine because of an over rich fuel condition.
Another cause of no starts on warm engines is either a faulty TW sensor, or air in the cooling system. Both situations can cause the ECU to think the engine is cold, and as a result floods the engine because of an over rich fuel condition.
Thanks!
What is "TW" When he goes to crank the car u hear the car turning over but that is about it. Isn't there a way to put the car in diagnostic mode since it is an obd1 and read the errors?
Thanks,
Sid
What is "TW" When he goes to crank the car u hear the car turning over but that is about it. Isn't there a way to put the car in diagnostic mode since it is an obd1 and read the errors?
Thanks,
Sid
TW= water temperature. Either an air bubble will cause a bad reading, or the sensor itself could have a "bad" spot.
To check for stored codes, pull back the upper part of the carpet in the passenger side foot well to expose the ECU and it's little plastic window. Turn the ignition to ON and count the flashes.
To check for stored codes, pull back the upper part of the carpet in the passenger side foot well to expose the ECU and it's little plastic window. Turn the ignition to ON and count the flashes.
Ok.. Went outside and put the key to on. I heard the pump at the rail and in the trunk. Sounds like it is working. Can this be just a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump strainer? The vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator looked ok.
Thanks,
Sid
Thanks,
Sid
It's rare, but someone reported a fuel pump that ran but couldn't deliver enough pressure. In that case the pump itself was bad. Before you go changing out the pump, verify if you've got fuel under pressure to the rail. As for a clogged filter, the car wouldn't be getting enough fuel under hard acceleration. There should be enough to at least start the engine though.
I am thinking it might be a bad fuel pressure regulator that is on the rail. I know that a FPR should keep the fuel pressure at 1.5 kg/cm2 after 5 minutes of having the car turned off. Maybe his is not therefore the pressure is falling and it is hard to start the car. So even when you turn the key to on, and the fuel pump pressurizes everything the car still doesn't want to crank because of fuel pressure...
Thanks,
Sid
Thanks,
Sid
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Hmmm... Possible, but in your first post you indicate it to be primarily a restart issue. I was assuming cold starts were pretty much trouble free. I would think the pressure bleed down would be a greater problem after the car sat a long time. But in either case, the initial pump cycle at start up should adequately pressurize the system.
My friend replaced the PCV valve and the problem hasn't happened in over a week. Could a faulty PCV cause starting problems similiar to what he was experiencing?
Thanks,
Sid
Thanks,
Sid
My friend replaced the PCV valve and the problem hasn't happened in over a week. Could a faulty PCV cause starting problems similiar to what he was experiencing?
and as a result floods the engine because of an over rich fuel condition.
i have that problem right now after i changed my plugs,wires,and dist. cap.
how do u fix this problem????pls help
thx!
i have that problem right now after i changed my plugs,wires,and dist. cap.
how do u fix this problem????pls help
thx!
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dariencookie
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Mar 26, 2013 08:10 PM




