I am pondering getting a B18C block, sleeving and boring to 85mm. I would like to be about 11.5:1+ compression. My question is would this be too big of a bore for NA? I know this would give big torque gains, and I'll be running this with a JUN III head... but is this overkill? I'm not looking to hit 12s or less... just want to kick some *** and be in the 13s

oh yeah, is this also possible with a B16 block?


[Modified by advanracing62, 8:26 PM 11/15/2002]

 

i think 84-84.5mm sleved is about as big as you wanna go.

 

The block sitting in my garage (hopefully to be built next summer....) is a decked and sleeved B18C1 block. It has 85mm sleeves and I expect no problems. With the solid deck, the motor could probably still hold a fairly large nitrous shot. Just to put it in perspective, many NA drag cars are punched out to 86mm.

 

what kind of car? you could easily hit 12s in a hatch with a setup like that, maybe in a teg.

 

B18C Golden Eagle sleeved to 85mm, JE 13.0:1 slugs, Portflow GSR head, Toda C's or JUN3's, RC 370's, and Hondata3 for me


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 8:25 AM 11/16/2002]

 

13:1 is not safe on pump fuel correct? I guess it could be with the Hondata, but still that seems high for what we have in PACNW for fuel

This motor will be in a gutted 94 hatch, she already hits 14s pretty easliy on streets

 

H22a stock bore is 87mm

 

Compression ratios above ~12:1 require larger cams or very good porting to run on pump gas. The reason cars with very large cams run super-high compression is that the valve overlap lowers the dynamic compression. With stock cams, 13:1 would result in detonation, with JUN 3s and VERY tight tuning it can work.
When I build my block, I'm only using a stroker kit with 11:1 since the stock B16a cams in my current head will be used.

 

I've got the stage III head, just need to get a bottom end that will work and produce over 200 whp and some good torque. I'm almost thinking that 85mm will be too big for me... What's the biggest I can go without resleeving?

 

You said above that it's hitting 14s easily now, so how much whp and tq are you putting out right now? B18C1?

 

i heard now but this is just hearsay but i heard its hard to get the rings to seat properly over 84.5 mm but this is just what i heard

 

i went with 84.. that way if anything happens and you get a small fracture in the cyl. wall, you can go bigger.

i dont know what the max is for a b series block. 86mm??

 

I think it's 87.. but yeah I know what you mean about anything cracking the sleeves. Would a bigger header, currently have JUN, be necessary? What is the biggest you can go without sleeving the block?

 

Why the hell would you want to do any motor work JUST TO HIT 13's. hitting 13's is nothing unless you are trying to hit low 13's on street tires.

if i were you and sleeving a motor i would do what jdmspeceg6 said at the top.....

 

im sending my block of to be resleeved sometime at the beginning of the year. and ive thought about the 85mm sleeve too, but i am going to be driving my car every day and it has to be super reliable, and the crv head gasket is 84.5 mm, and ive heard some bad things about the aftermarket head gaskets for 85mm. There was a post once with all these people having gasket problems that had over 84.5mm. I think im just going to stick to 84.5, but jdmspecEG6's setup sounds really sweet, maybe get some more info from him.

 

it would be fun to hit low 13s on street... make it a real street car capable of 13s all the time.. not just in race trim. Corvette's, stangs, z28, whatever... it would be fun to run em street wise and beat em. I'm thinking 84 may be as big as I should go...

 

i has a friend with 84mm sleeved gsr block with 11.5:1 je pistons, and ctr cams. all tuning ran 12.75s all day with slicks in an 93 cx hatch. nothing special but the car was very well tuned. so if you build you motor i guess this will work but why not just bump compression up to at least 12.0 or 12.5 and just back down your timing on 92oct gas and you shouldnt have a problem on the street. i know a bunch of people that run their street cars with 12.5 and 92 pump gas with 12 degrees timing and they have absolutely no detonation. when you have a built motor it all about tuning

 

the crv bore is 84mm not 84.5mm

i'm running a 84.5mm bore 13:1 compression

87mm is the largest you can go on a b series motor

i know a lot of ppl who have had problems with aftermarket head gaskets (cosmetic *cough)

golden eagle can punch out the oem gaskets to your bore if you like

 

Interesting about GE and the head gasket... "I did not know that." I'm almost thinking that it may be better to go 84/84.5 and give myself some room to move should something go wrong.

 

stick to 84.5mm if its your daily driver, too thin the clearance from each cylinder on the headgasket can prove detrimental for a REAL daily drive that drives and idles for hours in rush hour traffic, etc.

alos, rumor bout ring seating for big bore motor is not true, if gapped correctly they work fine, unless of course the piston to wall clearance is too big and it slaps around and ***'s the rings up

Greg

 

go 86mm-87mm...if you are sleeving, why not go as big as you can? but, reliability wise, if you use this car like its a regular honda, driving it everywhere all the time all year, go 84mm


[Modified by builthatch, 2:35 PM 11/18/2002]

 

oops, my bad, yea 84mm on the crv... i was just thinking of it being punched out already for some stupid reason. My friend is using a crv gasket punched out on his b20.vtec, bored over just a little bit, so his gasket was punched to match too.

 

So why doesn't someone who want s to run 84mm just buy a CRV bottom end instead of boring out there GSR bottom end to 84mm?

 

well let's see.... I can pop my hood and oooops... it's a B18?!!!? what how'd you beat me???

 

haha

also b20 and ls blocks cant run oil squirters and non-vtec blocks have to run external oil lines and i know some people just prefer gsr and type-r and i guess b16b blocks since they all of them have their own internal oil passages that were meant for vtec heads. Lastly all of the vtec blocks come with crank girdles which strengthen the stability of the crank tremendously!