My setup right now is:

jdm b20b
b17 head
b&m fpr & gauge
rs ram intake
dc 4-2-1 header
greddy sp exhaust
jdm pr3 automatic ecu

I'm planning to convert my ecu to manual and rechip(I have the chip in my glove compartment right now, so buying another one is not an option) the ECU with mugen program with 4400vtec and no rev limit. I was just reconfirming if revving the engine to 8000 rpm would be safe?

And I do plan to get Hondata soon. this chip is just a temporary solution for higher rev limit.

Jay Kim

 

not on a stock b20 bottom, reving that high will last you ohh about a year, those bearings were not ment to spin to 8k. go with different rod bearings and everything else down there

 

It's working fine for my friends CRVTEC.... He has ARP rod bolts, stock rods, 84.5mm JE 12.5:1 slugs... Portflow GSR head, RC 310's SK2 manifold, CTR intake cam, sprockets, ITR ECU and VAFC... So it revs to about 8300 on every shift... His best so far in his all motor full interior EK is 12.62@107... I would think you will be fine... Good Luck

 

How long has he had the same setup?

Jay Kim

 

people! come on, you must be able to tell us how you *know* these things.

eg real world examples?

anyone busted a crank or rods running past 8000 rpms? how, when, was it boosted? N20?

why different bearings 1320in11? do you find Honda bearings to be of inferior quality?

are the VTEC ones *better*?

t..

 

Tinkerbell I agree with you..... How do these people know these things about a motor only lasting a year if you rev it to 8000.... Dunno what he is talking about bearings either... Whatever tho peace man....


[Modified by JDMspecEG6, 5:43 PM 11/19/2002]

 

I'm not gonna say either way. Only thing I see is the built CRVTEC had better headstuds.
And what about rodbolts. Not bearings. But will the bolts hold out turning over that fast.
Like I said. I'm not saying either way, and 8K is semi-conservative. Just looking out for folks

 

complacency is deadly - Pelican, you have revived me. my bad

my B20VTEC has ARP rod bolts and ARP head studs - these are MINUMUM for a reliable high revver.

also have the B16 oil cooler installed, plus a full custom PCV set-up.

I have had the crank and flywheel balanced and the valve reliefs enlarged to accommodate any camshaft timing adjustments.

not that I have heard enough stories/tales/experiences to *know* that this will make it OK, but this is what I have judged to be an acceptable risk on such engines.

when people with LS/VTECS are going pretty hard, you must be able to assume that if you are careful and tune well, a B20VTEC is going to hold up OK too...

t..

PS just a bit sick of people dissing the set-up without really knowing it. you know, just passing on what they heard some guys saying the other day...

 

mines fine (for now).. been revin' it to 8k+ about everyday since i got it.. im gonna end up in a big hole sooner or later...

 

get some Falken Azenis!!!



t..

 

My buddie rev his turbo b20vtec to 9200 but I would reccomend it

 

i dont know but from what i hear its not safe, itll work for a while but i dont think that itll work for a long time. is it really worth a new motor. Just be safe and get gsr bearings

 

OEM bearing part numbers:

B20B mains - 13341-PR3-003/13321-PR3-003
rods - 13211-PC6-003

B18C mains - 13341-PR3-003/13321-PR3-003
rods - 13214-P72-003

are you saying to use GSR rod bearings on a B20 block?

but they are differnet lenghts!

i dont think that they would fit???

is there something here that i am missing?

t..

 

If i remember correctly, the B16a uses the same rod bearings as the LS/B20...

the GSR's are smaller in diameter...

 

hoping to prevent the spread of mis-information...

t..

 

thanks

 

Quote: "valve reliefs enlarged to accommodate any camshaft timing adjustments."

Hehehe, reliefs can only be cut so deep hehehe

 

Damn, tinkerbell is all over this thread.
Have you got your head probs worked out yet tinker?

BTW, I rev mine mine to 8k often and even past a couple of times (9600 r/l ownzzz). Motor has been going for a little over 5k miles and is ok.

 

it will last, but for how long?...besides the obvious r/s problem and balance questions, keep in mind that the effect of bad tuning @ hign rpm can increase your chances of damage exponentially...stress to rod bolts, main bearings, wrist pins etc can magnify balance problems and the motor will shake itself apart and kaboom...I would tune it perfectly, and not go that much past 8k, my thoughts are the crappy r/s ratio, oil starvation and balancing can be issues with that bottom end @ thos r's





[Modified by builthatch, 9:57 AM 11/21/2002]

 

I don't think it's the depth of valve reliefs that matter in this case, or at least for stock vtec cams. It is known that you could advance your intake cam timing on ITR with stock crv/ls block +4 before it starts slapping the pistons. This is due to the fact vtec and non-vtec valves have different diameters. I think 31mm vs 33mm, non-vtec vs vtec respectively. So when people say enlarging valve reliefs on piston for crvtec/lsvtec purposes, they usually mean widening the diameter of the valve relief.

I'm sure some will make the reliefs deeper too, but wouldn't that significantly alter the integrity of the piston?

Jay Kim

 

ha ha! that is a sorta personal joke!

you cant cut the reliefs deep enough to allow for the crank being 90 degrees off!

anyways...

all fixed now, replaced the valve, bolted the head back on and she was back in over the weekend.

had a good strap last night but havent gone silly (need to do a spanner check first!) then i will really open her up...

builthatch, do you see lighter rods/pistos in reducing the effects of the poor R/S ratio?

i agree 100% on the tuning aspect, if you detonate or just ping, the stress is magnified greatly. if you tune 'perfectly' the engine will be operating closely within its 'safe' parameters...

anyways,

there is always a risk associated with ALL engine building especially "frankenstiens", so you cant ever expect an egine (if you race it) to last forever?!?!

my buck fifty...

t..

 

do you have any idea what you are talking about?
because that was just wrong.

Chad on this board has a b20vtec with stock bottom end and headwork. he takes it to 8000 daily and its been over a year with 200+ drag launches and i dont know hw many hours of wheel to wheel racing (at least 10)

 

so ya'll are saying I can rev my B20 to 8g no problem w/ Zdyne tuned "well"?

I only plan on revin my stock B20 to 7,000 sometimes 7,500 if need b but guys stuff like this wasnt built to run @ 8 grand. it just wasnt. Besides the B20 is a larger dispalcement so there is more recpriocating (i cant spell it) mass then the GSR. There are so many varibles. Ive herd of a CRVTEC w/ a 100 shot going to 9000 w/ the juice and he blew his motor up because he didnt tune it.( g i wonder why she blew????? ) anyways this is a good discussion, lets keep it going.

peace out

Blaze

 

tinkerbell you have a good point w/ the part #s. I didnt see that I was scaning over the post. Is there a difference? So if you were to rev to 8k what would likely be the first thing to go other then the power form stock cams? sleeves? rings? valve springs?

Blaze

 

Great thread, I'm planning on going LS/VTEC soon. I want to get at least the ARP rod bolts and headstuds. Is it true that you have to modify the rods so the bolts fit??