Quick shift yes. The damn thing went in like butter and grabbed the gear perfect. I am going to start taking the motor apart tonight. I was going to start last night but the Cardinals were in the bottom of the 8th when I got home. I love my Cardinals. Anyway I will keep everyone posted and will take pics as soon as I get the head off.

Thanks again for everyones input~

 

does the motor even start? does it crank? do a compression test in each cylinder to see if the motor is holding compression.

i had a similar problem when my throttle got stuck between shifts and i dont have a rev limiter, and my rpm's shot up to passed the 9 on the gauge (integra) by the spot it was at i estimate it to be at around 13,000. i immediatly shut the motor off. immediatly! i started it back up to the sound of sputtering and misfiring. further analysis pointed out that i bent 2 exhaust valves. total cost of parts 150 bucks (2 valves, head gasket set)

it may or may not be as bad as everyone says

you might have bent valves

or you might have mashed a hole into your piston and totally destroyed your motor.

you wont know until you check it out further.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92bubblesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree the motor is probably pretty well fucked. I hydro locked my motor and it bent one rod and broke another. The motor just stopped. It also would just click if you tried to start it. That is because the rod that broke was jammed up against the botom of the sleeve. I would get a long block and repair/build your old one. That is what I did with my GSR. I am glad I just got another long block cause once I opened the locked motor I knew it wasent getting repaired quickly.

By the way. I don't know about the J1 tranny but my d16z6 with a dx tranny would shift out of 3rd at about 105. The gears were so tall I never redlined 4th due to lack of power. Godd luck man and keep us posted. </TD></TR></TABLE>

hydrolocking is completely diffrent. hydrolocking is getting something into the motor which cannot be compressed. when something gets into the motor that cannot be compressed and the motor moves up with so much velocity to compress it, the rod will give out. this is not at all similar to a misshift.

a misshift is basically over-revving the motor. moving the motor at such a high rpm that the valves essentially begin to float and not have enough clearance to clear the piston coming up. so the piston comes up with so much force (+9,000 rpm) and the valve is in the way. the valves are pretty flimsy and thin pieces of metal. however something with that much force ramming into it can be very destructive. sometimes the valve will go right through the piston, ive heard it going through forged pistons also, and bits of metal scraping and grinding the inside walls of the motor destroying it.

i dont remember what my car redlines 3rd in, but it is up around 90-100, i havent driven my car in over 4 months. also 4th gear will redline at about 127 mph.

 

no it will not start at all. it clicks, it sounds like it wants to turn over but it can not. Just a hard click. When I hear the sound it think of the crank trying to turn over or the flywheel and it hitting something. Not letting it turn over, like something broke and in the way.

i tired starting it 3 times and haven't sense afraid I am hurting my motor even more if that can be done.

thanks guys

 

Dude, dont worry about hurting your motor its already fucked.

No **** but i've seen some over-revved blocks and there tends to be nothing useful left on them.

Take off the head and look and see what kind of damage was done. Are the valves just bent? Or are they in pieces(probably) See if there is piston damage (most likely) And if not you might be able to use the bottom end. If u have the N1 pistons to throw in you might as well take the block to a machine shop and have that done, and while they are doing that have them check the crank and the block and see if everything is alright, they can inspect it for you.

Even if the block is good most likely your going to need a new head, or atleast enough work to that head to make it more logical to replace with another.

People are telling you to get a new block because by the time u do all this ****, and pay for it all its gonna be months and alot of $$$.

 

months I have, 2 blocks I have - I was going to send the block to Earl/Benson and have him sleeve it and but CP pistons, Full-Race Rods, and hopefully my crank if it is OK.

The Head now that is a different story, I only have the one. I just don't understand what could happen to the head. When you guys say the head funked, do you mean the parts in the head or the phyiscal head itself. Do you mean the valves, seats, springs, retainers? The only thing out of the head I need/want is the CAMS, ROCKER ARMS, PHYISCAL HEAD, and BOLTS and stuff. I am going to replace the entire valvetrain except for cams with Ferrea anyway. I am aware that my cams may be bad, but I am hoping. I am starting tonight as long as I get out of work before 10.

I am not worried about my CRX being gone for a few months I have a 99 Prelude to drive.

 

How could this kid not have been goin 100mph in 3rd gear?? I hit rev limiter at 6800 in third gear at 115mph...and i rock a d16y7

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How could this kid not have been goin 100mph in 3rd gear?? I hit rev limiter at 6800 in third gear at 115mph...and i rock a d16y7</TD></TR></TABLE>
The answer: your trans has a 3.72 FD (or 4.06, depending on what y7 trans) and his has a 4.40...that is a BIG difference

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IVI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hydrolocking is completely diffrent. hydrolocking is getting something into the motor which cannot be compressed. when something gets into the motor that cannot be compressed and the motor moves up with so much velocity to compress it, the rod will give out. this is not at all similar to a misshift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I realize that. The reason I posted it was to make the point that if the engine wont turn over you are looking at quite a bit of damage.

 

I want to see some pics. just the thought of 3rd to 2nd at 100mph is giving me nightmares, I wanna see the damage.

 

i'm going to start working and taking pics tonight - hopefully have pics on here in a few days. How do I load pics on here though?

 

alright - does anyone know where I can get a head and or a 3rd block. I would prefer a b18 or b20 block and of course a b16 head. I do not want to spend to much money but I was thinking if I am going to spend all this money on building my block I might as well spend a few more hundred and get a bigger block.

let me know!

 

Pull the head and see what it looks like, then go from there...

Shawn

 

i have a friend thats selling his whole valve setup. supertech valves. hit me up if interested.

 

sorry man heard bad things about super tech/skunk 2. I'll pass but thanks for the offer

 

Alright guys and gals what the HELL happen. I took my SPOON oil drain plug and it looks like some **** on it there is so much metal. BAD already, but that was not near as scary as when I pulled the plug out. Oil didn't come out it was FUNKING antifreeze. How in the hell did that happen? Oil did finially come out but not after abut 1 gallon of antifreeze.

Needless to say i came inside for a drink of Stawberry Stoli before taking the head off. I will hit you guys back in a few

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ELAMINT5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Alright guys and gals what the HELL happen. I took my SPOON oil drain plug and it looks like some **** on it there is so much metal. BAD already, but that was not near as scary as when I pulled the plug out. Oil didn't come out it was FUNKING antifreeze. How in the hell did that happen? Oil did finially come out but not after abut 1 gallon of antifreeze.

Needless to say i came inside for a drink of Stawberry Stoli before taking the head off. I will hit you guys back in a few</TD></TR></TABLE>

Prolly cracked one of the sleeves. That sucks sorry to hear it.

 

alright I got he cams out and they look ok. as fas as my eye can tell. they are not discolored and the only wear parts is where the cam is held down.

what spark plug is the number one plug? Well, the one closest to the cam gears will not come out. It is TIIIIIGET! can I take the head off with the spark plug still in? I did not want to mess things up worse than they already are. I know the motor is fucked up but I want to salvage everything as possible.

if the plug will not come out, could it be bent or something? and the other plugs were covered with oil.

so if antifreeze is in the oil pan the sleeve's are crack? (right???) this ******* blows. sorry for the language guys/gals but damn.

thanks for the ongoing help and interest - I'll start taking pics when it is light out.

 

You can take the head off without removing the spark plug.

 

cool I will take the head off tonight - why would my spark plug be so tight? is that going to mess my head up? can it strip out the plug hole? can that be fixed if yes?

 

bump: I want to see some pics, I hope everything works out bro but I don't think it is looking good.

 

thanks for the bump and NO IT IS NOT LOOKING GOOD IN THE LEAST!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Quick99Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He might've been shifting very quickly where he'd dump the clutch, giving him virtually no time to react to the extreme engine braking or the 10k engine speeds :/ I must admit, I've done this as well... going through the gears 1-2-3-2 type of deal, but the tach never went past 9k as indicated. You kinda feel a very noticeable braking effect and the best thing you can do after that is push the clutch in and become very very religious.

Adi</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree ive done this before but i was lucky and nothing happend to my mtr

 

alright guys i am reading my HELM's BIBLE and it shows a DOWEL PIN and O RING that needs to be taken out to take the head off.

how do i get it out. if you have the HELM's book it is on page 6-70. Now I can not look at the motor or work on it now I am at work I am just reading the book and noticed this.

and for the ROCKER SHAFT ORIFICE how do you get those out. it doesn't look like a socket or allen key. do they just pull out? if they do what do I use needle nose or do i need to use something with a rubber tip.

thanks guys/gals

 

a b16 is cheap for a long block i wouldnt wanta spend the time messing around with it....thats if you got the money but the motor is shot