My 2004 CRV A/C gradually stopped cooling. No noise or obvious signs from compressor. I thought it was low on R134 but it's got about 180psi at static. The compressor will not engage and I have also found that the right side condenser fan has 12 volts going to it but is not working. The left (driver side) condenser fan does start when the A/C is turned on. I've changed the relays around to rule out any relay issue. Question... If the condenser fan fails to spin despite having 12 volts, will it keep the compressor from getting 12 volts to the clutch? The car has about 200K miles so I'm certain that the clutch is likely worn out but thought the condenser fan might also have something to do with it.
Thanks for the help.

 

Is that static pressure after heat soaking? If that is a cold engine pressure it is WAY too high.

 

It's a fairly cool engine with those readings. Put the gauges on this morning with a cool engine and outside temps in the lower 70's. I was quite surprised to see that myself. This is my first A/C trouble with a Honda. Here's an even more strange reading.... The high side was much higher than the low side on the manifold. Nearly every vehicle that I've tinkered with shows the pressures to have equalized if static.
Apparently my wife had some shop add R134 last Summer. I wonder if they knew what they were doing since most don't. I plan to get under the car tomorrow and attempt to get my hands up in the area of the clutch pigtail to pull it and check voltage as well as apply 12v to see if the comp. clutch will click or do anything.

 

What was the low side at?

R134A has a vapor pressure of approximately 1 psi per degree. 70F outside should be about 70psi static.

 

The low side was around 150 while the high side was about 190 or so. Very odd static pressures for certain that I’ve never encountered before. My fear is that the compressor has shredded and spit a bunch of junk into the system, however I can’t imagine that the system would not eventually equalize even if a TXA or tube were blocked. I suppose that I could recover some R134 to see if the compressor clutch will engage. I will check to see if I have 12 volts going to the compressor clutch before I do anything though.

 

Sounds like it is over filled by a lot.

 

What doesn't make any sense about being overfilled is that my wife stated that she had R134 added about a year ago and it's been cooling ok up till now. If that's the case, I fear that the compressor has failed due to the overfill and high pressures. I don't know what this car uses as a regulator prior to R134 entering the evaporator. Is it a TXV or simple orifice tube?

 

First, static pressures are rather meaningless. Too many variables(amount of oil,refrigerant,moisture....etc) Basically, many things can build up pressure and it doesn't necessarily indicate there is a proper refrigerant charge.

Second, the fans fail quite often.( People usually dont notice until they both fail and the vehicle begins to overheat. My advice is to replace them both(your basic testing seems to indicate the fan motor has failed) A failed fan will not inhibit compressor operation.

And finally these compressors also fail quite often. (there is a TSB for these compressors)There is a design flaw with the second gen CRV AC system where an unusual amount of liquid refrigerant will remain in the compressor long after it has turned off and the compressor hydrolocks. Ive seen compressors on these models literally have a hole punched out the side. I think there is also an oiling issue, though I dont recall the details.

Youll want to evacuate the system and pull off a line and look for the presence of "black death", the name given to the debris of failed AC systems. Youll know it when you see it.
If it is present, youll want to replace the compressor,condenser, reciver/dryer and muffler line.(I dont remember if it has a muffler line,but if it does it should be replaced) Youll also want to thoroughly flush the AC system to prevent repeated failures.(liquid refrigerant is the preferred method, though many shops use an AC flush chemical) After the flush and the system is reassembled, be sure to vacuum for 45 ins or longer.

 

Thanks for the info regarding the a/c. I took the vehicle in to a local shop and they basically have said the same thing. The comp has failed and needs to be replaced. They want $750 to rebuild the system. I know the car isn’t worth all that much so it’s hard to even want to spend that much on it. I’ll let them take a stab at it. Of course I also know that they will likely not do all of the things that need to be done in order to properly repair the system. It’s about time to replace the car so I will just keep it and save the miles on my truck. Bad thing is finding another vehicle for my wife. Thanks for the help.