Any one have a clue on how to release the rear calliper piston ?

I've released 2 bleeder vavles , or atleast what I thought were bleeder valves , and I cant get this back into place.

Any help or insight is appreciated , car is up in the air , with not much time to spare.

Thanks .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by unknown source &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Jeez, don't know how long this question's been sitting without an answer but I hate to see a void! I'm thinking you're just trying to replace the pads, so here goes. Cars up on the jack, stands are in place and the wheel's off. First, spin a couple of wheel nuts back on over the rotor so it doesn't fall off on ya when the caliper is moved. There's a bolt that holds the cable support to the caliper. Take the bolt off the caliper so you have enough slack to rotate the calipre and you won't have to disconnect the cable or brake hose. Next thing is remove the lower caliper bolt and rotate the caliper up. Now just yank out the old pads and rattle clips from the mount bracket. To get the piston back into the caliper take a pair of heavy needle nose pliers, stick them in the cut outs on the piston and turn the piston back into the caliper bore. When the piston is fully depressed MAKE SURE you position the piston so that a line drawn through the cut outs in the piston would be exactly perpendicular to a line drawn through the calipre bolt holes. Now use a small screwdriver to GENTLY lift up one edge of the piston boot to let out any air that might be trapped in there. All that's left is to install the new rattle clips and pads (remember that the pad with the screech clip is the outer pad)swing the calipre back in place and put the bolts and support back on. Good idea to pump the pedal a couple of times and check the fluid level before ya head on down the road. Good luck!
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I fingered it out , next time , I will drink after the job is complete .