Hi,
My 88 just barely turns over after sitting, say, overnight. If it catches than it will start right up. If it has not been sitting too long it will also start right up.

Checked battery. Had system test done at auto supply. Battery good, alternator fine, starter fine.

The starter just seems to not be getting the juice. No telltale clicking from the solenoid either.

Thanks for looking

 

update:
I am thinking the issue must be related to a ground issue somewhere. I plan to remove the negative terminal on the battery overnight and see if it starts up normally in the AM.

I will keep the crowd of viewers on the edges of their seats until the starting attempt tomorrow.

Thanks

 

Sounds like a parasitic drain, something is staying on, trunk/hatch light or glove box light maybe.

Do a parasitic drain test... https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...tic+drain+test 94

 

That is perfect fcm. I will do the test tomorrow. I was wondering how the heck to track down that drain if it was the problem. I very much appreciate your help.

 

After connecting the neg terminal on the battery in the AM the car started right up. So one would think that a drain overnight has been the issue, however, after testing did not reveal a drain issue. First I got the test light but unfortunately it had a battery in it and an led light so probably was of little help.

After some web mining http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FybqNO7et0k I used my multimeter set on 10 amps and tried the drain test- nothing (0.00). To confirm this inexplicable result I turned on the dome light and got about a 0.75 amps reading. Then to make extra sure I turned on just the small trunk light and got .18 or so amps through the meter.

I guess the question is now what?

The voltage on the battery tested at around 10.95 which is, I presume, a bit low. Still why would it start right up after leaving it not connected but at the same time not demonstrate a drain?

scratch scratch

 

When doing a parasitic drain test you can not use an LED type test light.
Your meter is not working properly, there is always some draw.

A fully charged batt. should be 12.5V, again your meter must not be working, it is unlikely your engine crank very well at 10.95V.

Borrow or buy a 12V test light, [ordenary 12V light bulb type] they can be found for $2 or less, use it to do the parasitic draw test.

If the engine cranks/starts when you leave the batt. disconnected overnight but not if the batt. is connected, there has to be a parasitic drain.

It is possible the batt. is N/G, but because you said you had it tested, it comes back to a parasitic drain. 94

 

After all the high level diagnostics and intriguing mystery turns out- I got a bad battery. I guess the friendly folks at Advanced Auto either were using inferior test equipment or did not know how to use it.

With some good cold weather coming the new battery will be put to the test.
Thanks