Hello all,

I just got my Teg back from the shop and got an estimate on a bunch of stuff that I need to decide on. One item that they listed is that the "left outer tie rod has excessive play." To replace the tie rod and do a four-wheel alignment, they estimated $217. What is this part? Is it something, like tie bars, that aftermarket companies sell? Is that a fair price?

Thanks,
Ben

 

Well a tie rod is a tie rod. If you don't know what it is you may not be the best one to be doing the replacing of it and the alighnment is definately needed afterwards. Not to sound like a smartass, but if you don't know what it is you definately aren't up to taking it off of your steering knuckle and getting the new one on close enough to drive the car to a close-by alignment shop afterwards. Doing it wrong can cost you your life or someone elses.



[Modified by virginia_dude, 2:31 PM 7/29/2002]

 

take off the wheel. Inspect the tie rod for damage. If it is damaged. Get a needle nose plier and take out the cotter pin at the castle nut. Spray penetrating oil to lossen up nuts and treads. Then removed the castle nut. You will need 2 sets of wrenches to remove the tie rod. Use flare nut wrenches if you have them, less chance of rounding things off. Install in reverse order. Remember to install a new cotter pin and clip off the excess of the cotter pin with a diagonal cutter. Always torque castle nut to spec. Get a Helms manual for reference. Then go out to get an alignment.


[Modified by 2punk, 11:22 AM 7/30/2002]

 

And if you still don't feel comfortable with the install, GET ANOTHER QUOTE! ****, I just bought a tire rod from hondaautomotiveparts.com for around $30 for my 99 civic. I also had my buddy do the work since I didn't have the time myself. He pretty-much told me that if it's properly installed, an alignment isn't needed (i.e. if you pay attention and put it back in EXACTLY the way it came out). I took his word for it since he has been a tech for many years and got it done without the alignment. Car is fine.

 

The problem is there's no way you could put it back in EXACTLY how it came out. If all you go by is the wheels looking straight than the toe is most definately messed up. The only damage it will do though is to your tires.

 

Why wouldn't you be able to just mark the old tie-rod, remove it, measure your mark, and install the new tie rod in the same position the old one was in, using the measurement taken?

Not nit-picking, just wondering why this wouldn't work. After the tie-rod replacement, my alignment seemed to be just fine. Since then, I've put in a new suspension and needed an alignment anyway so I can't check if it was "right on" but I don't seem to remember any issues with it.

 

No two manufactureers Tire rods are going to be exactly the same with the threads starting at exactly the same spot. And by marking it you are assuming it is identically exactly in the one area that no manufacturer consideres important, because they are all adjusted when they are installed. I guarantee you , you may have gotten it close but if you got it exact it is by pure luck. Take my word on that, I have changed more than a few tie rod ends in the 24 years I have been driving.

 

OK, that makes complete sense. I didn't know there was an adjustment on them after installation. On a side note though, I had installed it with an OEM part so size/tolerences should have been the same.

 

POint of note, most OEM items like that are produced outside the manufacturer. . I.E. Honda may source out their production of parts like that to third parties, and the exect overall length id a function of the dies used, and there will be more than 1. and they do change as they wear and they all wear. the spec that will hurt you that way will varie as to to provided it for honda, and exactly when it was produced. If you got 2 from different lots there is likely to be a difference. Particularly if they used multiple sources like is common in industry to not be held hostage to a single supplier. But you do see my point. and why you can't reliably count on that parameter (length). that way does work if you have to remove a steering rack for other work and intend to replace it using the same parts. But it is always a better bet to just get the alignment done after, even a slight change that is not noticible on dry roads will reduce traction on wet roads, particularly if you are driving at the edge. And if it contributes to an accident is that $50 or so really worth having been saved. Or even reducing the life of your tires by 5,000 miles. Which can easily happen and still not be bad enough to easily notice. Or even this analogy, a properly aligned car needs less power to drive at any given speed and therefor can be faster due to reduced friction losses due to a poor alighnment. Oh and incidently in the 24 years I have been driving I have done 95% of my own mechanicle work, have driven over 1,000,000 (yes Million) miles have worn out over 14 vehicles (over 100,000 hard miles) so you see my point. Some things it doesn't pay to save money on. Maintinance is one of them. Scrimping in that area ALWAYS comes back to bite you in the *** later. Sometimes in ways you would never have expected.


[Modified by virginia_dude, 2:20 PM 7/31/2002]

 

Well said "virginia_dude".

It is good to hear that you do all your own work on your ride. I encounter too many people who spout off in forums that don't do their own work on their rides.