Question for all of you. Is the Comptech flywheel too light, they say it ways 6.75lbs. I've been told for the trip, a heavier fly is better, for street/roadrace, a lighter fly is better. I myself, don't plan on drag racing, I just want a good street car with good pickup. So.......do you guys think a 6.75 pounder is too light, I can also go with the ACT 8 pounder, I think it's the prorace series.

 

If it is just gonna be an everyday driver you wanna have fun with, i would go at the lightest the 8lbs act. If you drive in traffic and/or stop and go alot then its gonna take a while to get used to. I would even consider the 12lb act flywheel. Its all personal preference. Just remember the rule of inertia.

Heres some links to look at. Since you didn't specify your setup, model, etc.

http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/flywheel.htm

http://www.clutchcityonline.com/honda_racing.htm

 

What's the rule of inertia, I know I've read it somewhere.

Right now I'm building a good tranny for a turbo that I'm gonna install in a couple of months. I wanna push 300-350 horses for now. I don't plan on drag racing it, like on a strip. I might take it there just to find out what it runs. It's gonna be a daily driver, and "no", I don't live around alot of stop and go traffic, maybe sometimes but unlikely. I want a good, all around sports car, with good throttle responce/acceloration, balance and power (of course). I'm gonna get a new clutch, flywheel and lsd.

Is a light weight flywheel good/ideal for a force induction car?

I hope that explains more

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by doublejz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it is just gonna be an everyday driver you wanna have fun with, i would go at the lightest the 8lbs act. If you drive in traffic and/or stop and go alot then its gonna take a while to get used to. I would even consider the 12lb act flywheel. Its all personal preference. Just remember the rule of inertia.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d_mart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What's the rule of inertia, I know I've read it somewhere.

Is a light weight flywheel good/ideal for a force induction car?

I hope that explains more

</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, the lighter the flywheel, the less power it takes to turn it. it also slows down in a much shorter amount of time. that about sums up the "rule of inertia."

a light weight flywheel is fine for forced induction but 6.75 lbs IMO is too light for anything unless its a road racing car. for the street, that's too light. for drag, that's too light. for a predominately street car, i wouldnt go any less than 12 lbs.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikey3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

well, the lighter the flywheel, the less power it takes to turn it. it also slows down in a much shorter amount of time. that about sums up the "rule of inertia."

a light weight flywheel is fine for forced induction but 6.75 lbs IMO is too light for anything unless its a road racing car. for the street, that's too light. for drag, that's too light. for a predominately street car, i wouldnt go any less than 12 lbs.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Great!!, thanks. That helped alot. Then I'll go with the ACT 12 pounder.

Just out of curiousity, what makes a light light flywheel not suitable for street use? Is it because the throttle is too sensitive where engaging becomes difficult?

 

i'm happy with my exedy flywheel... not too light for nos

 

i have aasco 9lb fly for 265.

 

I have the act 8.8 pound one, and its not too light, its great

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the act 8.8 pound one, and its not too light, its great </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed ACT Prolite 8.8lbs = just right.(for me)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CanadianR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Agreed ACT Prolite 8.8lbs = just right.(for me) </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'll 3rd that one, the 8.8 lb is fine for a daily driven car. No drawbacks at all.

Cheers,
Roy

 

Awesome!, great then I'll go with the 8.8, cause I want a light fly but didn't know if it was gonna be too light and that's what I was afraid of. It seem that many of you have the 8.8 and don't have any problems, so that's great.

What kind of setup do you guys have? Meaning what clutch assembly and lsd (if anyone has one).

I was planning on going with ACT's XTreme PP. As for the disk, I haven't quite decided either, I was planning on going with the Street disk or the 4 Puck, I think the 6 Puck might be to harsh for a daily driver.

Any comments are greatly appriciated.

thanks

 

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I was planning on going with the Quaife differential.

 

I recently had a Comptech 6.75lbs flywheel (and ACT HD/SS clutch) installed, and I don't see why it should not be suited for daily driving.
I like this setup, and drive the car daily. I read that some found it more difficult in stop and go trafic, but I don't see what the problem should be.
It revs faster than stock, but not as much as I thought after reading up on ít, on this board.
One problem though. It can make the car stall, if:

The engine is still cold, and the "startup-program" is over (normal idle, still cold engine)
And, you give it a little gas, start lifting the clutch pedal (and make the car move slightly), and then depress the clutch pedal.

The revs fall too quickly and it stalls.
It doesn't happen once it is warm, and I have tried to make it stall (when cold) without success, so it is not easy to do.
Now that I know it can stall in this situation, I just give it a little gas, to avoid stalling.

So I would say, if that small risk of stalling doesn't scare you, get the light flywheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DanishR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I recently had a Comptech 6.75lbs flywheel (and ACT HD/SS clutch) installed, and I don't see why it should not be suited for daily driving.
I like this setup, and drive the car daily. I read that some found it more difficult in stop and go trafic, but I don't see what the problem should be.
It revs faster than stock, but not as much as I thought after reading up on Ã*t, on this board.
One problem though. It can make the car stall, if:

The engine is still cold, and the "startup-program" is over (normal idle, still cold engine)
And, you give it a little gas, start lifting the clutch pedal (and make the car move slightly), and then depress the clutch pedal.

The revs fall too quickly and it stalls.
It doesn't happen once it is warm, and I have tried to make it stall (when cold) without success, so it is not easy to do.
Now that I know it can stall in this situation, I just give it a little gas, to avoid stalling.

So I would say, if that small risk of stalling doesn't scare you, get the light flywheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you would recommend it? Cause I love Comptech's ****, I'm just scared of it being to light like you said, it stalling. But I could see giving some more gas would help.

How do you like you clutch assembly? I was planning on getting the XTreme pp and possibly the 4 puck (not sure yet).

 

Yes, I would recommend it. I would choose it again now that I have tried it. But, perhaps the 8.8lbs flywheel would be better if that doesn't make it stall. But as I said before, I have learned when it could stall, and just give it a little gas to avoid it, so it is not a problem, to me at least.

I like the clutch. Little stiffer feel than stock. Not much. Smooth engagement.
I had to change the clutch so I chose one with a little more holding power than stock. I don't think it would be enough for a 300-350hp turbo car, though.

 

It looks like you're changing your mind every single time someone posts.

Read this (read allenp's contributions) and see the downsides as well as the benefits from someone who knows what he/she's talking about.

 

i would NOT GO WITH ACT FLYWHEELS. first they are chromoly which for street are a nitemare cuz if you are a street driven chromoly tends to heat up like hell and then they warp. then you get chatter and kill your trans bearings and to top it off it is not rebuildable junk people junk. try cm flywheels or any billet flywheels with steel inserts like aassco,clutch masters,or a shaved stock one. the only one i use is rps though it is all billet and has either carbon insert pucks or steel completely rebuildable for life and wieghs almost 10.lbs which is good for any street car .usualy and thing under is just a over kill

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It looks like you're changing your mind every single time someone posts. </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha.......yeah I know. I didn't realize it till you said so. Wow, I'm bad. But anyways, I really like Comptech's stuff, I have their cat-back and the front strut brace. They look and perform great. I was originaly gonna go with them on the flywheel but 6.75lbs does seem to be a little light from what people say.

Then I was thinking about just going ACT's Prolite or Streetlite. Prolite is around 8 something (depending on app). Streetlite is around 12 something (also depending on app). First I was thinking to go with the Steetlite, just to be on the safe side. But then I was like, I don't want to have something close to stock. So then I was thinking the Prolite cause it's not as light as Comptech's and it's not as heavy as ACT's Streetlite.

Well to make the story short, I bought the Prolite yesterday afternoon.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecHART &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would NOT GO WITH ACT FLYWHEELS. first they are chromoly which for street are a nitemare cuz if you are a street driven chromoly tends to heat up like hell and then they warp. then you get chatter and kill your trans bearings and to top it off it is not rebuildable junk people junk. try cm flywheels or any billet flywheels with steel inserts like aassco,clutch masters,or a shaved stock one. the only one i use is rps though it is all billet and has either carbon insert pucks or steel completely rebuildable for life and wieghs almost 10.lbs which is good for any street car .usualy and thing under is just a over kill</TD></TR></TABLE>

since when is chromoly bad? i've always run chromoly and never had a problem. the one time i did have a flywheel was when i bought my car and it had a warped aluminum fidenza.... from my reading, aluminum is quicker to warp than any other materials.

also, the aluminum flywheels aren't heavy enough for safe and serious nitrous installs as they are more prone to shattering. if i'm incorrect in stating that please correct me b/c this is what i have been told 2nd hand. i haven't done any research on this myself since i don't run nitrous (or NAWZZZ, for you stupid stunna'zzz).

anyway, bump for exedy, love 'em

-Erik

 

I'm running a 9lb fly on my boosted z6 and I love it. It's plenty streetable but 6.75 sounds a little un streetable. Get a chromally flywheel for strength

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtecHART &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first they are chromoly which for street are a nitemare cuz if you are a street driven chromoly tends to heat up like hell and then they warp. then you get chatter and kill your trans bearings and to top it off it is not rebuildable junk people junk. try cm flywheels or any billet flywheels with steel inserts...</TD></TR></TABLE>What have you been smoking? So 1/8" thick steel bolted to aluminum is going to be better than almost 1/2" thick chrome-moly that can be ground perfectly flat (and reground for $20 several times if needed)? It's going to take a lot of heat to get our flywheels to warp.

Kill bearings? At least our flywheels are balanced! Many others aren't.

Not trying to pick on you though. I have heard of some competitor's chrome-moly flywheels that are really thin and will warp pretty bad which is probably where they get the bad rap. Also heard of some that have soft ring gears that wear too fast. Not ours, but I will save you the sales pitch! Do your homework.

 

I don't run an ACT flywheel... no reason other than I've got a nice deal on Exedy but.... I know many people that run ACT with all motor cars, high boost hondas, nitrous hondas, and just street cars.... without problems. ACTMan, aside from Comptech, are ACT and Exedy the two big players with ChroMoly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Erik_Pb_Foot &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't run an ACT flywheel... no reason other than I've got a nice deal on Exedy but.... I know many people that run ACT with all motor cars, high boost hondas, nitrous hondas, and just street cars.... without problems. ACTMan, aside from Comptech, are ACT and Exedy the two big players with ChroMoly? </TD></TR></TABLE>The three of us are about the only ones in the US. There are some companies in Japan of course. I don't think aluminum flywheels are big in Japan.

I wanted to introduce flywheels that were the best quality possible with no short cuts, and most of all, reasonably priced. The only way for us to do that was to invest big dollars in forging dies. Because of the initial investment, we will not be making 200 different applications, but for the common sellers it's worth the investment. I am sure that we are the reason our competitors flywheels have gone down about $100 in price this year.

 

i hear that, well bump for a great product and customer relations guys.
i took Comptech out of the picture when choosing a flywheel b/c of weight.... too light just isn't good in my opinion. I was, at the time, going to spray a healthy bit of N2O hence the reason for a heavier lightweight flywheel, and hence the reason for chromoly. Like I said earlier, I don't run ACT, but it is only b/c of my hookup with Exedy.... They are both top notch products from what I've seen.

-Erik &lt;--- who supports ChroMoly all the way, aluminum is meant for cans

 

I have sold plenty of Xact flywheels. Very nice and not one problem so far. I have sold one comptech fly for a b18b turbo. The xtss act clutch started slipping and heated up the flywheel to the point the ring gear came loose and started rattling. I would go with th eXact flywheel for my car...$.02