strong pull under acceleration
so I have been having a issue with my car pulling to the left under acceleration. its aligned and nothing is too out of spec. if I slowly accelerate daily its mostly ok. but if I give it any sort of heavy throttle the car instantly pulls strong to the left. if I rip threw gears I have to have the steering wheel turned to the right to stay going straight. as soo as I let of the gas the wheel and car go straight again. I have a power steering rack but do not have power steering. It has a gsr swap and is lowered on teins. I just replaced a driver lca in the front. has anyone had this problem before.?? some people have said it could be torque steer. but ive had other swapped Hondas and haven't had it like this. it also has a type r lsd. I had a ball joint nut come off once and had that side axle removed and tried to drive it and it would not go anywhere. with lsd shouldn't it still drive that other axle..??
if anyone has any ideas let me know
if anyone has any ideas let me know
Yeah, it sounds like torque steer exacerbated by a shitty alignment. Did the alignment shop give you a before and after sheet? If they didn't, then they didn't do their job. If they did, post it here and let us take a look at it.
I had this problem in my old Integra but only with the factory wheels with hubcaps. I never figured out why it did pull the left under hard acceleration but when I mounted aftermarket wheels it stopped pulling to the left. I remember it being as bad as you describe yours especially when you do that 1-2 shift it would jerk the steering wheel to the left. It was annoying.
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Your left front camber is fucked to ****. That should have been unacceptable to come off the rack like that. If it can't be adjusted properly within spec, then there's something physically wrong with the car that your "friend" should have told you about, and had you paid a professional shop to do this alignment, they would have refused warranty service unless you had that defect fixed.
Your RR toe is also way the **** out. What kind of Mickey Mouse hackjob did your "friend" do? Holy ****.
Your RR toe is also way the **** out. What kind of Mickey Mouse hackjob did your "friend" do? Holy ****.
I'm more suspired by those toe readings and the "after result", -1.5 isn't too crazy but the fact that the other side is half of that sure is. toe should be close to 0 or 0 if you're like me.
I can't adjust front camber. I have adjustable teins I have rear camber adjustable. My passenger side rear toe is maxed I can't get it anymore in the green then I did
My front toe is 0 rear toe is as much as it can be adjusted. How do it get my rear toe fixed. Like I said it drives straight under normal acceleration. But under heavy it crazy pulled left
Did you do the alignment, or did your "friend" at the shop do it? The answer here is that you need to take it back, and have him do it right. If he doesn't know how to adjust those settings, then he has no right near an alignment rack.
You don't know what warranty services are? Here's a simple explanation for you. When you have a professional do work on your car, you sign a piece of paper called a labor order. On that piece of paper, there will be warranty information. For example, professional alignments come with a X miles/X months warranty, stating that you can bring it back and make sure it's still set properly within that time frame. I'm guessing none of this applies, since it sounds like you let your friend do work for you for free. If your buddy is doing it under the table...well, then, you're out of luck there, and your buddy is stupidly putting his job in a possible position of liability.
If you are lowered, you need to find a way to properly adjust your camber. that means you either need to get adjustable ball joints, or you need to buy adjustable upper A arms. Buy good hardware, or have fun with a ball joint failure dropping you into the pavement. Rear toe is factory adjustable, from a bolt at the front of the trailing arm. There's no excuse for your "friend" to have not set that correctly.
You don't know what warranty services are? Here's a simple explanation for you. When you have a professional do work on your car, you sign a piece of paper called a labor order. On that piece of paper, there will be warranty information. For example, professional alignments come with a X miles/X months warranty, stating that you can bring it back and make sure it's still set properly within that time frame. I'm guessing none of this applies, since it sounds like you let your friend do work for you for free. If your buddy is doing it under the table...well, then, you're out of luck there, and your buddy is stupidly putting his job in a possible position of liability.
If you are lowered, you need to find a way to properly adjust your camber. that means you either need to get adjustable ball joints, or you need to buy adjustable upper A arms. Buy good hardware, or have fun with a ball joint failure dropping you into the pavement. Rear toe is factory adjustable, from a bolt at the front of the trailing arm. There's no excuse for your "friend" to have not set that correctly.
I did the alignment my self I know how to do them. As u can see I adjusted the rear toe a lot!!! As much as it would let me. And now it's maxed out from what I saw under the car. Yes I do need a front adjustable camber kit. So that's what is causing the pull? And what is so wrong about the alignment according to you besides the camber and rear toe ? The thing drives straight under slow acceleration but if you put any heavy foot down it strongly pulls to the left
The previous comments are correct. Because you have double the front camber on the left and waaaay too much toe on the right rear, when you gas it, it pulls hard left.
What condition are the TA (rear) and compliance (front) bushings in? A torn bushing may allow you to get the alignment in spec but is then unpredictable when loaded. If they are original, they are 20 years old and are almost definitely toast. If they are good, you need to check for something bent in the rear. It's not uncommon. You may be able to shift the front subframe over to even out the camber.
How much are you lowered? You should be able to get the toe in spec unless you are **** slammed. Check again for something bent.
Why are you running such gigantic tires? 185/65/15 is almost 1.5" taller than stock for a 92-95 Civic (assuming 185/60/14 stock).
How much are you lowered? You should be able to get the toe in spec unless you are **** slammed. Check again for something bent.
Why are you running such gigantic tires? 185/65/15 is almost 1.5" taller than stock for a 92-95 Civic (assuming 185/60/14 stock).
What condition are the TA (rear) and compliance (front) bushings in? A torn bushing may allow you to get the alignment in spec but is then unpredictable when loaded. If they are original, they are 20 years old and are almost definitely toast. If they are good, you need to check for something bent in the rear. It's not uncommon. You may be able to shift the front subframe over to even out the camber.
How much are you lowered? You should be able to get the toe in spec unless you are **** slammed. Check again for something bent.
Why are you running such gigantic tires? 185/65/15 is almost 1.5" taller than stock for a 92-95 Civic (assuming 185/60/14 stock).
How much are you lowered? You should be able to get the toe in spec unless you are **** slammed. Check again for something bent.
Why are you running such gigantic tires? 185/65/15 is almost 1.5" taller than stock for a 92-95 Civic (assuming 185/60/14 stock).
Well I traded my rims for civic si rims kept the tires I had and now the pull has gone away. I guess for whatever reason that was it
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jdser92
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