Is it possible to make..
Drill holes in the dampers and let the fluid run out. If you don't like that idea, then all I can think of is to remove the anti roll bars, or find someone who can make you some custom soft springs. Or, air springs...
Keep in mind that anything you do to soften the ride will make the car handle less well than it does now and be less safe, and for this reason is I think a bad idea...
Keep in mind that anything you do to soften the ride will make the car handle less well than it does now and be less safe, and for this reason is I think a bad idea...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johnlear »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Keep in mind that anything you do to soften the ride will make the car handle less well than it does now and be less safe, and for this reason is I think a bad idea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily. In some cases, it can be more beneficial as softening the ride provides more grip than stiffer springs in droop travel situations.
OP, what I would first try to find out is if there are some form of spherical bushings/bearings you can install in the control arm bushing locations. This will allow free movement of the suspension that is typically inhibited compared with the stock rubber bushings. Otherwise, I would replace as needed as a worn bushing can reduce proper suspension movement and cause discomfort.
In the mean time, get yourself a quality set of shocks/struts/dampers designed with a smooth dampening curve. Koni is the only brand I know of with these characteristics. I highly suggest you take a look at this thread over in the VW world to see what I am talking about.
If you have room, downsize your wheels to a 15 or smaller, and use a taller sidewall to compensate. Sidewall height will help absorb road imperfections, so the taller the better. Air pressure is also another thing to watch out for, so find a good compromise between fuel efficiency and comfort (you might be surprised to see this is right around where the manufacter recomends). A side benefit to all of this is a reduction in unsprung weight and lower polar moment of inertia, which actually improves handling characteristics, comfort, and fuel mileage. If you can't downsize you wheels, you can still upsize the tires 5% or so, just be aware of space (possible rubbing issues), and speedometer error.
Leave the sway bars and springs alone. The springs were designed from the factory to be optimal for the car, and the sway bars will have little effect on comfort and more of an effect on safety.
Keep in mind that anything you do to soften the ride will make the car handle less well than it does now and be less safe, and for this reason is I think a bad idea...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not necessarily. In some cases, it can be more beneficial as softening the ride provides more grip than stiffer springs in droop travel situations.
OP, what I would first try to find out is if there are some form of spherical bushings/bearings you can install in the control arm bushing locations. This will allow free movement of the suspension that is typically inhibited compared with the stock rubber bushings. Otherwise, I would replace as needed as a worn bushing can reduce proper suspension movement and cause discomfort.
In the mean time, get yourself a quality set of shocks/struts/dampers designed with a smooth dampening curve. Koni is the only brand I know of with these characteristics. I highly suggest you take a look at this thread over in the VW world to see what I am talking about.
If you have room, downsize your wheels to a 15 or smaller, and use a taller sidewall to compensate. Sidewall height will help absorb road imperfections, so the taller the better. Air pressure is also another thing to watch out for, so find a good compromise between fuel efficiency and comfort (you might be surprised to see this is right around where the manufacter recomends). A side benefit to all of this is a reduction in unsprung weight and lower polar moment of inertia, which actually improves handling characteristics, comfort, and fuel mileage. If you can't downsize you wheels, you can still upsize the tires 5% or so, just be aware of space (possible rubbing issues), and speedometer error.
Leave the sway bars and springs alone. The springs were designed from the factory to be optimal for the car, and the sway bars will have little effect on comfort and more of an effect on safety.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
spherical bushings will ride much harsher than stock rubber. There's a reason the stock bushings are rubber. Also, spherical bushings would have to be replaced after a couple of years of daily road use. They're not built for longevity. They're built to take the compliance out of the suspension on race cars, which I think is NOT what the OP wants.
Not necessarily. A rubber filled bushing is nothing more than a metal sleeve "floating" in a rubber filler, so you will get lateral movement with your rotational movement, along with the possibility of binding. These can increase the frequency of a bump into uncomfortable levels for the passengers. I think its something like 4-6 hz is considered a comfortable bump frequency.
Although harder, the spherical bearings are designed to allow bind-free movment of the suspension along the axis it was designed to move-about on. So now you have no lateral movement and a smooth rotation of the pivoting arm. Several people I have spoken with have actually noted an increase in comfort because of this, with the downside being a touch more road noise because of the more solid nature of the bearing. This realm is highly subjective without definitive measurements though...
However, this is all a compromise. Cost effective, lower maintenance, and similar results at the cost of some comfort (debatable) from rubber, or a higher maintenance, higher cost, and increase in road noise so you can have more predictable handling characteristics and increase in comfort (debatable). More people go with OEM rubber because of cost, and I don't blame them.
Although harder, the spherical bearings are designed to allow bind-free movment of the suspension along the axis it was designed to move-about on. So now you have no lateral movement and a smooth rotation of the pivoting arm. Several people I have spoken with have actually noted an increase in comfort because of this, with the downside being a touch more road noise because of the more solid nature of the bearing. This realm is highly subjective without definitive measurements though...
However, this is all a compromise. Cost effective, lower maintenance, and similar results at the cost of some comfort (debatable) from rubber, or a higher maintenance, higher cost, and increase in road noise so you can have more predictable handling characteristics and increase in comfort (debatable). More people go with OEM rubber because of cost, and I don't blame them.
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