Just wanted to know the simple differences in koni/gc combo, compared to any function and form full coilover kit.(yes, sleeves vs whole coilover kit, i know)

want to know the MAJOR differences in them, with same spring rates. Just like to know because a friend is debating on the two, thanks.

 

Well one advantage of the F&F coilover is the adjustable shock collar, allowing you to lower the car without sacrificing shock travel. That's a pretty hard choice to make though. The Koni/GC setup is a performer that's proven to last a long time.

 

I would go with the Koni/GC combo. Its just a GODLY setup. And F&F isnt the best ishhh. I heard there good but koni/GC Owns.

 

F2 sucks, don't even bother. When I had their coilovers the valving was completely wrong, and I ended up taking the coilovers off within the same month and selling them on Acurazine.

What matters the most is the shock valving. If your shock isn't valved correctly and is dampening a spring that is not the right spring rate for its valving (IE: Function Form, Ksport, D2, etc.) you will not be satisfied with how your car rides most likely, among other things. I know because I have been there and won't do it again.

 

quality.

 

What does the adjustable shock collar do? Sorry just a noob.

What do you mean if the shock isn't valved correctly?
Will it matter what kind of spring rate i have then for the gc/koni, like do i need a specific spring rate??

 

For Koni Sport shocks (Yellows), due to them being rebound adjustable, you can set them to correctly damp most any spring rate up to about 600 lbs/in.

If a shock isn't valved correctly, you will be either over or under damped.

Over damped rides harsh.
Under damped is bouncy.

You have much research to do. There isn't a quick paragraph any of us could type that would explain it fully. Too many variables. Low speed vs. high speed, linear vs. digressive, compression vs. rebound damping, etc...

 

I've had my Function and Form Type 2's on my car for over 18 months. I probably have 55-60k miles on them and they handle like the day I bought them. I couldn't be happier.

Both setups.... (if you get the higher end of the full body coilovers) have adjustable dampening to allow for the driver of the car to dial in the handeling correctly.

I was able to set the pre-load to exactly what I wanted it and it handles pretty well compared to the Koni/GC setups that I've ridden in.

The adjustable shock collar means, that you dont move the spring on the coilover sleeve, but you move the sleeve down into the shock base. This makes the shock have the same travel, even if the car is lowered as far as possible. Koni/GC setups do not offer this.

Basically, there are 4 parts to the full coilover setup.

1. Top hat
2. Shock w/ threaded sleeve
3. Spring
4. Threaded shock base.

 

Then how will i be able to valve it correctly?
Or how do i know if it will be over damped or under damped?
Also the gc sleeves are progressive

 

im looking to lower my car also but dont wanna lose ride comfort. whats the best thing to do to and cheapest...??

 

Best thing to do is getting a spring with a really low rate, basically soft springs.
So the softer the spring the less you'll feel the bumps in your car.

what car do you drive?
I have a eibach prokit spring and tokico blue used for 7,xxx miles selling for 360. Retails go up around 450.

 

i just picked up a 1993 honda civic lx 4 door

 

You don't valve it (for most shocks). They come already valved, and you need to use springs that those shocks can control. For adjustable shocks, there is a larger range of spring rates that the shock can be adjusted to adequately control.

You ask the manufacturer of the shock what spring rates it can handle. Any well designed setup that includes both should only offer spring rates that the shock can handle.

Incorrect. GC uses Eibach race springs, which are linear.

 

The adjustable shock collars on coilovers are what allow you to raise or lower your car, as well as adjust how much preload you would like to add to your suspension. When you have a spring it is given a rating (meaning like 8kg/mm, 10kg/mm, 12kg/mm, etc.) that is either in kg/mm or lbs/inch. This means that for every millimeter that you compress the spring it will take 8kg of force assuming the spring is a linear spring. If it is in lbs/inch it works the same way, just in pounds, not kilograms. (I believe?) Don't worry about the preload though because it's somewhat irrelevant for most people.

Spring rate is directly related to a few things such as: how your car handles, what the shock can handle, and how the ride quality is. When your shocks are not valved correctly from the factory for the specific spring rate that is paired up with it you will either get one of two effects. Your car will be extremely harsh due to the shocks being overdampened. The other effect is known as being underdampened, which is what most Taiwanese coilovers, if not all of them, are. This is when the shocks is valved for a spring rate much softer than it is paired up with, yet the manufacturer decides to throw on a 12kg/mm spring anyway just for the hell of it, to try and compensate for shitty valving. This means your car is going to bounce a lot. Any good shock manufacturer will provide you with information about what spring rates their shocks can handle. If they do not tell you initially it is not difficult to find out.

Generally shocks will allow you to use a range of spring rates so you are not limited to just one spring rate, but it's crucial that you stay within that range, unless you get the shocks revalved.
You don't do the valving, the manufacturer of the shock does. As long as you stay within the specified spring rate range that the manufacturer specifies you will not be overdampening or underdampening your shocks. GC sleeves are not progressive, they are linear springs.
That is not quite correct... Although I did touch base on spring rates, you don't want to go too low because once you lower your car you will actually have to compensate for that by increasing your spring rates in order to not bottom out. This could be either your shocks bottoming out or control arms hitting the strut towers, etc. A car will feel stable if its suspension system is valved correctly and the tires are grippy enough for the suspension settings. Using springs that are too stiff will result in more wear on your tires and if your tires can't handle the spring rates you'll slide around like butter on a hot frying pan.

 

Ah i see.. lets say for an example,
I order the gc/koni combo at a HT vendor, and i want 380/450lb/in spring rates, so konis can hold up to 600 lb/in.
This will be good correct? because my spring rate isn't more than the shock can handle.

 

Yup.