Today was a good day, had a disk swap all ready until this trailing arm bushing bolt came out halfway and the nut inside the unibody broke off. It is the bolt beside the tank. On the right of the picture.
The bolt is partially out but keeps spinning.
I don't want to have to drill into my hatch looking for this bolt. Is there any way or access beside the gas tank at all if i drop the tank?
Any other options that i can use if i cut this bolt out.?
Picture for reference - not mine - Any help would be appreciated!

 

Break out the grinder. You are cutting a hole.

 

The words i didn't want to hear lol - Any idea where about's the nut would be located in a hatch?

Maybe ill try and just cut the top of the head off the bolt - and find a massive drill bit to drill through into my hatch. Get a rough idea where to cut

 

cut where the bolt goes in out. Weld the nut in place. Re-weld the cut section back into place.

 

Not a fun problem. You can access one of the bolts from the top. I think it's the outer one. You have to cut a hole in the sheet metal under the rear seat. It is not a fun repair. Ultimately this doesn't really help you if you want to do a permanent repair but I went in through the top and was able to jury-rig a solution that was a reasonable facsimile of original. Been riding on it for 4 years as-is, so yeah.

 

having a good ol canadian car aswell, I ran into same problem.

Take out back seats, get the thinnest cut off wheel you can and cut a square door you can pry open.

You will see the studs, do the following:
blast them with a propane torch,
once they are cool, spray them with liquid wrench and let it sit for a day
weld a nut to the stud
start wrenching out stud

 

 

Thank you so much for these photos! What year and model was your car? Did you remove the sound deadening from the floor pan under the seat or did you not have any? Looks like your cut line was right on the edge of where the sound deadening is/was based on the coloring of the floor pan. Did cutting on that line allow enough access for the inside bolt? I have trouble with the inside bolt but not the outside so hoping I can make a slightly smaller hole and avoid dealing with the sound deadening because if I cut near that I think I'll need to remove it prior to welding.

 

Where I cut , I did not have sound deadening. As you noted I cut right on the border. If you are having a problem with the inside bolt. You will have to cut more into were the sound deadening is . I have done this with the last few cars. The one in the pictures was a 1999 sedan.

 

Thank you so much for your reply! Much appreciated. I successfully exposed the inner bolt today with my first cut based on your photos and this reply on my 1994 EX Coupe. My plan was to use my Dremel to cut off the end of the bolt where some of the threads are too rusty to pass through the welded nut in the frame rail, but I am using that as a last resort because I am not comfortable with the amount of space in there to fit the Dremel. It's possible but not much room for error. I was not expecting the reinforcement bar on the right side to be there. Going to try a thread restorer nut (essentially a die) to clean up the threads enough to pass the bolt through.

 

Hole for inner bolt. Drilled out the two spot welds, too.


Did a terrible job drilling through the bolt from the bottom of the car.

Pounded on it with a chisel for a while and finally turned it out.


Now I need to figure out what I'm going to do with this...




Drilled a hole on the other side and slowly worked it out while spraying the threads clean. Took forever but less time than all that ^^^ BS.

 

Whoa, I never saw this. The other posts in this thread are a copy of what I did. My repair is eight years ago, now. I had a practice car to cut open to see how the bolt and weldnut were mounted. Then with some spectacular aim that is unparalleled in my world of car repair to this day, I took out my hole saw and centred it blindly right over top of the weldnut. I clearly did something to hold the weldnut fast so I could remove the existing bolt, or maybe I cut the head off and pulled it out? Anyway, suffice to say I got the problem out of the way and replaced it with a standard bolt and nut combo. Eight years later, it's still fine.

 

I guess Mine's good too bud but the rear jack point next to that nut collapsed when i was jacking it last month and I'd advise no one ever use those rear jack points if you have rust near there.

My nut appears to be ok but that whole area just needs re-done, i been coating it in Por-15 rust coating and thinking about ways to weld in new metal. You should use some por-15