I tried searching and didn't find too good of a answer.
My car is a 96 Civic dx coupe. The suspension setup consists of the following:
Koni Yellows
Ground Controls
Skunk2 front uca's
Ingalls rear camber kit
Prothane trailing arm bushings (I know that they aren't the greatest, but I had them laying around and the oem ones that i had were torn)
new inner and outer tie rods

I don't know if it matters, but here is my brake setup:
EP3 rear setup
Fronts are re-drilled Preludes and hubcentric rings with 03 CL calipers.
Axis pads


The alignment shop said that they would set it up however i wanted, but honestly i have no clue as to what to tell them.
The car is going to be about 80% street car 5% Auto-x car 15% drag car

Any insight would be extremely helpful

 

Set the TOE to 0

Fix the Camber to whatever you'r going to do with the car, DD/AutoX/Drag

 

camber doesn't eat tires, only toe does

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vsmhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Set the TOE to 0

Fix the Camber to whatever you'r going to do with the car, DD/AutoX/Drag
</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought that it is supposed to be toed in a little.


oh and here is a pic of the car with the old setup on it as a bonus

 

EVERY CAR HAS DIFF. SPECS. i set my car in at .7 in toe, off spec, and let the camber sit at 1.2 degrees. way off spec. but my car handles like it's literally on rails, bad for tires, fun to drive. it's on u, when i do sport setups, i always toe them in to the fullest as long as there still in spec. and camber, as long as they have camber kits, usually a lil bit off spec, because it won't eat thru the tires as quick as toe, and the handling responds a lot better. try to always stay away from 0 and 0. (striaght up and center)

 

ohhh yea, set the rears out on camber, and i always set the toe, on center. thats jus me....