Adding camber
Got some wheels I gotta clear. Front fenders were flared so they fit fine, but the rears I'm having some problems. Natural camber won't tuck them, so I gotta pick up a camber kit to add some to clear. Now my question is, are all camber kits adjustable from only +/- 1 or 2 degrees or are some different? Call me stupid and flame me about how I shouldn't ADD camber, but I could care less.
an adjustable rear upper control arm will get you more than enough negative camber.
SPC lower control arms are made to be shorter for ppl in your specific position to bring the wheel in closer too. i would be concerned with how this affects the trailing arm position and possibly clearance of the tire to the trailing arm, but worth a shot if youre trying to be extreme.
why not flare the rear fenders?
SPC lower control arms are made to be shorter for ppl in your specific position to bring the wheel in closer too. i would be concerned with how this affects the trailing arm position and possibly clearance of the tire to the trailing arm, but worth a shot if youre trying to be extreme.
why not flare the rear fenders?
it would also bring in the tire more. (in conjunction with an adjustable upper arm) which seems to be more his goal. then you wouldnt need so much neg camber.
Last edited by Tyson; Apr 24, 2009 at 01:38 PM.
That's exactly what would happen with a shorter LCA. I need more camber to tuck the tire. Wheels are 15x8 0et. I flared the front fenders and I'm slammed and can fully crank without rubbing, it's nice, haha. Rears you can't really flare though unless you weld in longer rear inner fenders, otherwise the 1/4 panel is welded to the inner making it impossible to flare unless you do a bunch of cutting and welding. I think I'm just going with a Blox rear camber kit. You can go +/- 5 degrees. I only need probably 3 more to clear the rolled fender, then the rest is natural with the lowering. Thanks for the help guys!
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I have to still place an order for the camber kit so it won't be a week or so until I can tuck the rears. Here's a shot of how it sits now with the 15x8 0et...

Here's the fronts, same wheel specs but the fenders are rolled and pulled... (I know my passenger fender isn't aligned correctly
)




Here's the fronts, same wheel specs but the fenders are rolled and pulled... (I know my passenger fender isn't aligned correctly
)


What tyson was trying to say is that when using BOTH a shorter LCA AND an adjustable UCA (camber kit), it will bring in the entire wheel thus helping with clearance.
But I know the OP got such wide low offset wheels to pull off a specific slammed, stretching tire with mad camber look. So your going to need some serious negative camber
But I know the OP got such wide low offset wheels to pull off a specific slammed, stretching tire with mad camber look. So your going to need some serious negative camber
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I have about -2 front camber and I've been on my current tires nearly 2 years now. I got over 30K on a set of tires even with -2.8 camber. TunerN00b runs about -4 camber on his Integra and has been on the same tires for about 2 years I believe.
Toe wears tires, not camber.
-10 camber will ruin a tire a bit, but if you have proper toe adjustments and your caster is on point, then your tires will wear evenly, even with -5 or so. I ran -5 on my Civic last year in the rear and all summer there was no signs of camber wear, and you can't even adjust toe in the rear. Even though the tire looks like it's sitting on the inside, the air evens out the pressure and will change the shape of the tire, unless you're aired with way too much pressure. Listen to Patrick noobs, he knows what he's saying.
To the person that mentioned shorter LCAs and such, yeah that would bring the tire in, but I'm going for the flush look so my only option is camber to get them tuckin'
To the person that mentioned shorter LCAs and such, yeah that would bring the tire in, but I'm going for the flush look so my only option is camber to get them tuckin'
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