How do I install the Goodridge stainless steel brake lines? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

I am going to be doing mine too. It looks simple, but is there anything to watch for?

 

Do you need to clamp off the brake lines though? Or is the connection to the original OEM lines some type of stop connector to stop brake fluid from flowing?

Someone heeeeeeeeelp.

 

It's really simple ... just make sure to note how the stock lines run ... and just basically install the S.S. lines the same way.

Just empty as much brake fluid from the MC as possible ... some will still run out of the stock lines, so put a rag down. All the attachment points are the same as stock. You will need to remove a clip near the attachment point to get off the stock lines. The clip will go back on when you install the new lines.


[Modified by AdamITR, 8:49 PM 12/10/2001]

 

in the fronts, it's hard to get a wrench to loosen the hardline w/o taking off the brackets for the abs. hard to explain, but just remember to loosed two bolts above the hard line.

also, bleed the brakes after you finish each corner.

yoshi - who reminds both of you not to forget to put on two crush washers for each banjo

[edit] hint: to stop the leaking from the hard lines, just take off the rubber cap off the bleeder screw and use it to plug up the leak temporarily [/edit]

 

yeah there easy to install start at the caliper and work back to the connection point. then bleed the lines, if it feels a little spungy do it a few more times, then bleed it one more time 48hrs later and they should feel perfect.

 

So wait, i am unclear, will the lines need to be clamped shut to stop all the fluid from comming out; or do I want to drain all fluid from the system before i start!?

 

Stuff a rag in master cylinder fluid container and soak up as much of the old fluid as possible. Then swap out the old brake lines...there will still be some fluid left in the old lines you could plug up the hard line with something but there is no way of clamping it shut without ruining the line..besides you wanna get all the old fluid out of the lines anyway. Install the new lines, and fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid...
start at the rear passenger side wheel, open bleeder screw have someone slowly push the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it then you close the screw..keep doing that until a soild flow of the new fluid comes out... then do the rear drivers side, then the front passenger then the drivers side front and your set.

 

Okay, see here is what I am confused about:

When I install the new lines, I should drain ALL of the brake fluid out of the system? Otr should I soak up all fluid in the master cylinder, and then just replace the lines? should hte bleed screws be open at this point?

NOTE: I know how to bleed the brakes! I understand that and have done it lots of times. I am just confused about the replacing brake lines process

 

sorry, but what do brakelines do?

 

Braided lines are supposed to eliminate sponginess under heavy breaking (pedal feel), Increase breaking efficiency, and are more abrasion and corrosion resistant than factory rubber lines.

I think their main noticible improvement is pedal feel.

<--- ThePunk, Who needs to put the goodridge lines on the R, before they dissappear out of the garage like the motul brake fluid did.

 

This is not the sequence that the Helm's manual says to use. I am not sure where you got that sequence though...

In the Helm's manual, it says nothing about draining all of the fluid out of the system. From what I have heard in the past, it is BAD to drain all of the fluid out of the system. When everyone is talking about bleeding the brakes, everyone warns against NOT letting the brake fluid resevoir empty...

 

Thats just because if it gets empty air will get in the lines makeing your bleeding process longer. No real damage will be done.

 

Why would you want to soak it all up anyway? WHy not just push it all out with the new fluid?

 

I think you're right if you were just changing fluid. The point to soaking up the old fluid is to minimize spilling. That **** is just plain nasty, and it's best to spill as little as you can. Once the new lines are on, you can then use the new fluid to flush out the old.

-231, who's going to do the same install once the GS season ends

 

When I swapped my brake lines to stainless, the rear nut that holds the flexible line to the hard line would not turn! I was in danger of stripping this nut, so we applied some heat to it. Which melted the rubber line. And the brake fluid caught on fire.

After that, the job was easy! Speed bleeders, or a one way bleeder kit makes this job go a lot faster.

Paul

 

you dont need to totally drain the master cyl. Just do what Yoshi said and cap off the steel line. It will make bleeding the brakes much more enjoyable than starting with an empty system. When you do bleed the brakes just use a turkey baster or some other kind of syphon and suck all the fluid out of the MC, remove the resevior and clean it out with some brake spray cleaner. Be carefull not to get brake fluid on the paint. Then just put it back on, fill and bleed as normal. Only takes about 3 pints to bleed the system completely but have more on hand in case you run into problems.

 

Someone know how big a bottle of Super BLue is? I don't know the quantity, but it's pretty near 3 pints I think... will one bottle be enough to totally flush the system?

 

sackdz,

I used about 2 liters to flush my entire system. Super blue and TYP 200 (amber color instead of blue, only difference) both come in 1 liter cans. I have about 15 containers of the stuff sitting on my shelf. I would suggest buying 4 cans. Two of super blue, and two of TYP 200. and then alternate between the two. One caliper, use the blue stuff until you see it in comming out of the calipers bleed screw hole. Then on the next caliper use TYP 200 (amber) and wait for the same thing to happen. I do this and it makes it easier to know when you have flushed the entire sytem. I went through 3 liters of fluid doing mine, which sounds about right for flushing the entire system.

 

Ok, just keep the reservoir full, right?

Super Blue - Blue = TYPE 200 right?

Now I just need to find out where the hell to get some....


[Modified by sackdz, 11:14 AM 12/11/2001]

 

Yes, most definately. When you first start check it often. After a little bit you will get used to how many pumps of the brake pedal you can get away with before you need ot refill the reservoir full.

Yes, TYP 200 and Super Blue are the same exact fluid. They sell the different colors just to make flushing the system easier (or at least this is my understanding).

As for where to get some; you can search Google, I found lots of places online. A local motorsports shop may have it, but I couldn't find any in Arizona. Finally, there is a place online that has it the cheapest I have found at like $8.90 a can (liter), but you have to buy at least 10 cans of it. I don't have the link on me right now but if you are interested, let me know and I can get it for you. If you do a lot of track driving, 10 cans is not a bad idea, otherwise, find somewhere else and pay a little more to get less.