well, i wrecked my 93 civic coupe last summer so i went and bought a 91 crx si to make my project car. i didnt want to buy hasport mounts for my 98 gsr swap so that i wouldnt get bad axle angles so i decide to make my own.
both the front and rear mounts are solid, adjustable mounts. the 2 side ones are simi factory. well the problem with making custom mounts to get a perfect axle angle is that when you do so you end up with your engine sticking out the hood!! (pacman style).

this is going to be a street car so i need some idea as to what i should do. the valve cover, and distributer both stick out the hood exactly 2 inches! please any suggestions will be great.





no my bumper isnt hooked up it is just setting on the ground infront of the car that is why there is a big gap and it isnt centered over the intercooler.if anyone knows where to get a 88-91 crx hood or one piece front end like the one leslie durst runs that would be awsome, or if anyone knows where i could pick up just a cowl hood scoop about the same size as theirs,i have considered making my own but steel would be to dam heavy and i am no good at fiberglass yet.

 

If I remember correctly didnt the Gude crx have a hood that would fit over that? I dont know... but it is worth a shot

 

Didnt you just post this same thread in the EF forum?

 

Looks like you're gonna have to customize your own hood too. Why not just put a "bump" like on stock 2 gen eclipse's...

 

maybe the sir hood will work?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mamaboy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe the sir hood will work? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not that high =/

 

 

i say make a bump for the hood on ur stock hood. rectangular bump would look sweet. gudes had problems. they are race hoods so you cant really use stock latch.

 

hey atleast you dont need to open your hood anymore to add oil or change your spark plugs,

but easiest way is probably getting some sort of fiberglass bump molded on.

 

I guess now's the perfect time to learn how to glass!

Its really not that hard, using something as a contour mold and apply a mold release (vasoline works pretty good if applied liberally), mix your resin correctly, chop up your mat, apply the moistened mat to the mold, get the air bubbles out, and your just about there!

Then you'll want some fiberglass filler / glazing putty to blend it into the hood and smooth the surface of the glass.

 

screw it! get a jegs and order a 5 inch cowl..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess now's the perfect time to learn how to glass!

Its really not that hard, using something as a contour mold and apply a mold release (vasoline works pretty good if applied liberally), mix your resin correctly, chop up your mat, apply the moistened mat to the mold, get the air bubbles out, and your just about there!

Then you'll want some fiberglass filler / glazing putty to blend it into the hood and smooth the surface of the glass.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like a metal hood to me. y would u glass on metal that will be heated and cooled on a regular basis? weld up a bump. if u can make his own swap mounts he can make a bump

 

well i went to jegs and it looks like 4'' x 31.75'' x 53.5'', Outlaw Cowl hood scoop will be wide and tall enough only problem is that it is WAY to long so i am goint to have to cut it down lenght wise so that i can use it. it should end up looking like this
and be centered over my hood and clear my cam gears buy .75"

 

does anybody know where i can get one that is 4" tall / 31-32 " wide/ and about 35" long? if so that would be a perfect fit without the need to cut it down. thanks for yalls help -James

 

Thats gonna be sweet. Keep us posted

 

ohh and if yall want to see what adjustable front and rear engine mounts look like and my axle angle, here it is
front mount
rear mount
drivers side axle angle without intermediat shaft
passanger side axle angle

for the axle angle pics i took a plastic broom and stuck it through the hub and into the transmission. with my adjustable traction bars and adjustable engine mounts i have +- 10 degrees for the angle of the engine and stock to 2 inches of adjustment for the traction bars.

 

get an EG radiator for it since u can fab stuff pretty good.

 

Oh my god ghetto has reached defcon 9

Are you kiding me bro ? or do they hand out crack where you live

I cant wait to the see the after pics, that is if the track officials will even allow you to race that thing.

Your going to get a very hard lesson in torsinal rigidity when our good friend captain torque steer arrives

I've never seen an engine do a 360 in the engine bay before so it should be fun.

 

wait maybe I should say back frip y0!

 

those arnt the only mounts in there.... i am going to have 2 sets on each side of the engine. even with one set per side the engine isnt going anywhere at all, that is 5/8ths fittings we are using not some small rinky dink stuff. the plates that go to the engine and tranny are 1/4" think and are getting more support braces to them. if the stock 22 gauge crap can hold the engine im pretty sure my thick stuff will.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FF lotus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh my god ghetto has reached defcon 9

Are you kiding me bro ? or do they hand out crack where you live

I cant wait to the see the after pics, that is if the track officials will even allow you to race that thing.

Your going to get a very hard lesson in torsinal rigidity when our good friend captain torque steer arrives

I've never seen an engine do a 360 in the engine bay before so it should be fun. </TD></TR></TABLE>

torsional rigidity of what exactly and how does it relate to Tq steer? I don't see how that motor is going to move at all, especially with his poly tranny/timing belt mounts and at least 2 of the heim jointed stabalizers. So do motors with stock rubber mounts do 720s?

 

How bout this I'll wait 1 week and then ask him to take more pictures and we'll see how straight everything is

 

the car isn't going to be running until sometime close to December. there is lots more i still must do to the car. also i have personally seen 3 sets of hasport billet motor mounts brake in my friends cars. just had to let you know that because it seems like you think steel is crap and aluminum is so much better.

 

Oh man. You should be using .125 plate at least on that stuff. Some rubber or larger mounts might also be of some benefit. You're going to rip those mounts off the subframe.

 

did you not hear when i said they are 1/4" thick? the fittings are all 5/8ths along with all the bolts and nuts. there are more braces going into it than the pictures show also.... the stock mounts are 20x more likely to get torn up than these. give me a couple more months and i will prove yall they wont tear up.