I tried today, didnt go to bed Thursday night after work because I knew I wouldnt be able to get up early.

I started @ 7am at my grandparents house.

I removed the battery, intake, drained tranny fluid. Got 2 tranny -> motor bolts out but the rest ALONG with the motor mount bolts were ******* seized.

I was confused as you can tell on what I was actually doing and since everything was seized and I didnt have access to any air I gave up @ 3pm, went to bed and am gonna go put it back together now and try again next weekend after daily soakings in Liquid Wrench and an air gun next weekend.

I took more pics so you guys could help me.

Heres me original thread for a few more pics

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=989723

If you could modify then or go by pic and tell me what to do, This ****** is either getting burned or getting fixed next weekend, I cant take the ******* noise of this release bearing

HOW DO I REMOVE THE THROTTLE CABLE


Passenger side, castle nut unthreaded to the end and smacked on the arm, nothing budged


Drivers side, this is what I am going to be prying on right?


In this pic (front tranny mount) I was able to get the bolt that goes directly into the engine removed, is this the right one to drop the tranny?


I cant tell WTF this is lol, rear mount? Whats going on here


Forget what I wanted to ask about this picture, ****


Passenger side, you can see castle nut undone and also whee am I prying on the axle to get this ****** to pop out?


Thats the area I was hitting with the hammer, kind of hard to get a good angle on smacking it, but it wasnt moving


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=989723

THANK YOU

 

As far as removing the axles are concerned, it's quite easy. Just takes a little time. There is a way to swing the radius arm out of the way without having to separate the balljoints. Search and see what you find.

 

With the castle nuts your on the right track. Just keep smacking, you need to get that ball joint above the castle nut to seperate and let the LCA<~thing your hitting) drop down until its touching that loosened castle nut. Try using a jack to lift the rotor and axel assembly up then nail the **** out of the LCA. As far as the actual bolts holding the tranny on, just get a 2foot or so breaker bar from autozone,pepboys,kragen,sears, ANYWHERE. Air tools will be a bitch to get into those areas. Just use brute force. For the axels, your going to be prying them directly out of the tranny. So you see in pic #6 (from top to bottom) You will need a prybar or a big screw driver and you want to seperate that big cylinder looking object(Inner CV JOINT) from the tranny itself. There's a ring around the end of the axel holding it into the tranny. As for the mounts, there is only 4 mounts holding both your engine and your tranny to your car. 1 front(hiding behind radiator) 1 rear (hiding down under firewall in back of the motor) and 2 sides ( One on the tranny side holding the tranny, and one on the driver side holding the motor.) You need to remove all but the one on the driver side. MAKE SURE YOU USE SOMETHING TO HOLD THAT ENGINE IN PLACE. If you take those 3 mounts off and let the motor hang on by 1 single mount, it will stress the **** out of that mount and your motor will sag heavily. The axels might fight ya to get out, or they might not. They take more to break them out than you think most of the time so don't worry about breaking them. Refer to my guide where I replaced my tranny for help. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=939636 If you have any other questions pm me on here or email me imsoslow116@yahoo.com BTW, this job is almost as easy as changing break pads so don't get discouraged. - Darell

*****EDIT********* Argh, I was being dumb, only 2 mounts need to be removed bah to me ^^. I was reading through my article when I remembered, sorry about the confusion, go by the article, its very informative. - Darrell *************

 

Im still just buying an air compressor, I wanted one anyways to port my head and polish some ****

bump for more help on what I was doing

 

I finally got mine done man, all my motor mount bolts were easy with a nice breaker bar since I just did this swap earlier this summer

I had a bitch of a time with the motor > tranny bolts though

Let them soak for an hour in liquid wrenh and they popped after burning about 10000000 calories heaving on them and leaving some skin lol

Took me about 10 hours in all working non stop and hard

Wasnt fun but I think I learnd a lot

Air gun may/may not help you

 

Oh yeah buddy you're gonna need a breaker bar. I used like a 3 1/2' bar on my motor mount bolts and my axle nuts. I literally had to stand and bounce on the bar to get the axle nuts to break loose after prying out the little locking tab. Wheeew those were fun times.

 

For the front mount, do not take the mount of the trans, rather unbolt it from the cross member. Clutch cable, loosen it all the way then basically pull down and over. For the ball joint, get a pickle fork and knock the ball joint apart. Rear mount same as the front, loosen 1 bolt connecting it to the rear cross member.

 

If you worked on it for 6hrs and basicly didn't accomplish anything then mabey you should pay someone to do it. I could have had the tranny out and another one in in that kinda time. Taking pictures of mounts and saying WTF is scarey to, I think you might be getting over your head. If you still want to do it, please get a service manual first, I don't want to sound like a dick I just don't want you to **** up your car.

 

wow.. this guy shouldn't be working on his own car.

the only reason i saw this, working on your car, with no experiance, you can do alot more damage than good. for example. when taking the axles out, you have to break the lower ball joint apart, peopel usually bend and or damage the bolt that is already weakened by 4 holes for a cotter pin.

i can only see headaches ahead.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you worked on it for 6hrs and basicly didn't accomplish anything then mabey you should pay someone to do it. I could have had the tranny out and another one in in that kinda time. Taking pictures of mounts and saying WTF is scarey to, I think you might be getting over your head. If you still want to do it, please get a service manual first, I don't want to sound like a dick I just don't want you to **** up your car. </TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what i was thinking to myself...

 

You gotta learn somewhere

And it wasnt really 6 hours, maybe 4 and I was working without breakers bars which I wont be without next time

The ******* 2 axle nuts took me minimum 30 min each. I soaked them in liquid wrench and just gave her

At 17 years old am I supposed to be some sort of mechanic? I thought thats what these forums were here for

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Traction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">At 17 years old am I supposed to be some sort of mechanic? I thought thats what these forums were here for</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did my first engine swap at 17, age really doesn't matter. Back then there wasn't near the resources for Hondas we have today either. You don't seem to have mechanical common sense, which is apparent in your post. Do yourself a favor and get a shop manual. Remember taking it apart is the easy thing it's getting it back together, you need to worry about. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I did my first engine swap at 17, age really doesn't matter. Back then there wasn't near the resources for Hondas we have today either. You don't seem to have mechanical common sense, which is apparent in your post. Do yourself a favor and get a shop manual. Remember taking it apart is the easy thing it's getting it back together, you need to worry about. Good luck. </TD></TR></TABLE>

At 15 I was doing clutch repacements on VW bugs in an afternoon auto mechanics class ~2hrs. By the time I was 17 I could do them in 45 min. Age has nothing to do with ability. Now it would take me 3 hours to do the clutch just cause I move so much slower. Also some people have the ability an dsome people don't. I have taught Motorcycle Mechanics and Auto Mechanics and I could tell in just a few classes whether someone had mechanical ability or was going to be totally lost their entire life.

 

bump for the disbelievers

Maybe you guys had classes or fathers who were mechanically inclined, but my dads a rich nerd and I got to a catholic school without an automotive course, just woodworking so it wasnt easy for me either



Modified by Full Race A6 at 9:57 PM 9/18/2004

 

I dont get what entirely Im going with the axles/balljoints though

Like after I smack it down onto the castle nut, what am I doing, Im prying it out of the tranny on both sides right? And only smacking the lca down 1" allows me to do this?

Thanks

Ps- I havent seen my dad in 11 years. Ive everything I know about cars over the internet and never took any auto courses in school because I knew my future relied on me getting a scholarship.

 

you need to get a helms...

motor/tranny mounts have nothing to do with taking out your axles...first take off the axle nuts...2nd loosen the wheels, then raise the car...

take off wheels.

unbolt lower shock bolt.

then unbolt the lower control arm from the knuckle, which is what you use a pickle fork, or a ball joint puller, or a BFH and hit from the underside.

next swing the knuckle so the outside of the axle comes out of the hub.

then you pry very gently the inside of the axle with a flathead screw driver if that is all you have.

next make sure your axle seals are fine and in correctly, put the axle back in and do the reverse of everything.

torque specs:

shock mount bolt/nut 47 ft/lbs
lower balljoint nut 40 ft/lbs
lugnus 80 ft/lbs
axle nut 132 ft/lbs

 

everyone seems to have a different way to do it

Crxgator, you didnt mention anything about the 2 32mm axle nuts, your way avoids this?

 

So basically its just,
-remove the 32mm nut
-car in the air
-loosen 17mm castle nut to few last thread and smack LCA until it drops onto the nut?
-with assemble now dropped to the bolt, it will aloow me to be able to pry the axle out of the tranny
-do my tranny drop business ready for reinstall of axles
-just pop both axles back into place,
-tighten castle nut while raising the lower LCA?

Correct me what Im missing please, thanks

Also how do I get the speedo thing out of the tranny, I slid the boot up but wasnt able to just pull the sucker out of the tranny now did I feel anything to grab to undo it. Im talking about the cable that comes out of the firewall and goes to the back of the tranny if im talking retard lol

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Traction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically its just,
-remove the 32mm nut
-car in the air
-loosen 17mm castle nut to few last thread and smack LCA until it drops onto the nut?
-with assemble now dropped to the bolt, it will aloow me to be able to pry the axle out of the tranny
-do my tranny drop business ready for reinstall of axles
-just pop both axles back into place,
-tighten castle nut while raising the lower LCA?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'd take the fork on the bottom of she shock off as well. Some people leave them and just let the axel hang there, but it is easier when it is all out of the way.

As for tightening the castle nut, sometimes the ball joint spins and the nut won't tighten. Make sure the threads are clean and the nut is straight. Then have someone push the hub/spindle/whatever you want to call it down in to the LCA while you tighten the castle nut.

Additional crap: I'd use a ball joint separator if the hammering doesn't work. Don't use a fork because they tend to split the old dry boots on the ball joint.

You are going to pry the inner CV out of the trans, pop the lower joint apart, swing the spindle out and over to the side, and get the outter CV out of the hub where the big 32mil nut was.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Also how do I get the speedo thing out of the tranny, I slid the boot up but wasnt able to just pull the sucker out of the tranny now did I feel anything to grab to undo it. Im talking about the cable that comes out of the firewall and goes to the back of the tranny if im talking retard lol

</TD></TR></TABLE>


There is a C clip that holds it in to the tranny. Get that C-clip off and you should be able to wiggle it out.


for trying this yourself instead of taking it somewhere.


EDIT: One last note! When you do finally get in there and take the bearing out. Be careful of how you put the piolet bearing and spring and fork back together. Don't get the fingers of the spring behind the throwout bearing but in front of the fork. It will break the spring the first time you push the clutch in. You'll see what I mean. Take note of how it is together before taking it apart.

Good luck!

 

giddy up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Traction &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everyone seems to have a different way to do it

Crxgator, you didnt mention anything about the 2 32mm axle nuts, your way avoids this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to get a helms...

motor/tranny mounts have nothing to do with taking out your axles...first take off the axle nuts...2nd loosen the wheels, then raise the car...


</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Did you ever get that air gun you said you were going to?

Would definetely help for some bolts, but some are dug deep and youll just need a breaker bar

 

I actually got a free impact gun, 40 foot air line and pressure gauge from work

Also tonight Ill be trying to pick up an air compressor, and check work for a nice pipe to breaker bar with

 

bump before work

Still would like help on exactly what happens after I smack the LCA down, If I can just pry the axle out then or if something has to swing away

Also the speedo cable, you said there was a c-clip, I cant feel anything....

cmon guys, help a noob

thanks