Yes I've searched. What force is required to push the punch pin through the shift linkage. I'm not using a punch pin but something very similar and its ain't budging, and I'm hammering away at it.

Thanks.

BTW I only need the punch pin out, drive shafts out, and tranny speed sensor off, then I pull the motor so help is appreiated.

 

Sometimes it take on hell of a beating to remove hence the nick name "bitch pin"
Dont forget engine harness, coolent lines, exhaust manifold and AC if you have it.

 

If you are having to hard of a time drop the whole linkage with the motor and tranny the remove, I assume you are on you back doing this? if so that can make it a real pain.

 

Ok on the other side near the shifter there's a bolt that looks like it can be unbolted, maybe I just unbolt that pull that linkage out with the engine and tranny. Hopefully it can be manuvered around.

 

invest in an air hammer... it was the best tool i had for my swap. it pushed broke apart my ball joints, pushed my axels out, and pushed the bitch pin out. all very easily. i got mine from harbor freight for like 50 bucks
scott

 

thats what i need to get.

I'm still working on getting my bitch pin out. And i have about 12 hours of hammering in on it.

 

man i know what you mean i just went to the same thing last week. first of all make sure u are using the right size punch and be sure it is a non tappered punch. the punch needs to be the exact size as the perimeter of the pin. next make sure that you are using a hammer that delievers a good solid blow and be persistent. if that doesn't work try heating the pin up with a torch. be sure that there aren't any flammable liquids on the shift linkage or around it that would become a problem when you start heating things up. then start pounding again while it is hot. good luck. If all else fails undo the linkage on the shifter end but you will have to jack your car up higher if you choose this method to make clearance room for the linkage.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mr_valentino20032000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have about 12 hours of hammering in on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're kidding right? If you were using the right tool it should take less than 10 minutes. As was stated, it cant be a tapered punch. Anything that slips into the opening on the pin is just pushing it out against the linkage when you hammer on it, just jamming it in there more.

 

well, for people like me who have to do the swap on jackstands and there isnt enough room to swing a hammer, an air hammer is awesome. besides, who wants to mess around with heating and pounding? i seriously, put the air hammer on the pin, pulled the trigger, and the pin popped out the other side. the kid who was helping me almost crapped his pants cus he was used to the "bitch" way of doing it and wasnt as technologically advanced as those of us with air hammers.the only downside to using an air hammer is that you need a compressor to use one and not everybody on here has the $ to shell out for a decent shop compressor.

 

yes..i wil never o a swap again without a compressor...just for that sole reason..

 

I never got the pin out of my linkage when swapping engines... made for a Hell of a time. That thing is still in there.

 

i got mine out in like 5 min using a small bolt as a punch, i just found a bolt that was the same size as the pin and pounded a few times. and I was on jack stands while I did this.

 

go to sears. buy a 5/16" roll pin punch. easy to recognize because it has a raised nub on the end. the little nub keeps the punch centered on the pin when you hit it with a hammer. i got mine out in less than 30 seconds. the punch should cost 5 bucks. in a set of 6 punches in various sizes, should cost twenty tops. do not get a punch without the little nub. it will not be helping you, and make things much harder than they need to be. 1/4" should work also.

the right tools make some things really easy...

 

Ok time to go shopping, or phone up a buddy. I should have gotten the compressor.

Ok question 2; We know its hard to get out how about reassembling it. If it's hard to get out I can only imagine it'd require something weird to get it back in.

 

nothing weird... use the roll pin punch, and a ball peen hammer. or you can use a strong c-clamp.

 

Got it out today. learned
-You need a punch that you can center on the pin as was stated early. I got clever, and was able to find a primative way of centering the punch on the pin.
-YOU CAN NEVER HAVE A BIG ENOUGH HAMMER!

Now I hope its as fun getting the pin back in as it was getting it out.