clutch pedal bracket
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 317
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From: palm springs/spokane, ca/wa, us
so my clutch slowly stopped working today and i thought for sure that it was my cable and it was time for yet another, but it ended up being my clutch cable bracket, it snapped.....how exactly does it come out??? Does the brake booster have to be unhooked and how much time should something like this take, any help would be very nice, and possibly the steps to do this, thanks!!!
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
From: palm springs/spokane, ca/wa, us
the pedal assembly itself.. the metal piece that is up next to the steering column inside the car that the clutch, brake and accelerator hook too
Well the nuts holding the brake booster in need to come off but the brake booster won't just fall off. There are two hidden bolts under the heater ducting, also make sure you park how far the brake booster rod sticks out just incase it gets moved.
I had this happen about a month ago. This is not fun trying to get this part out. What i did was remove the dash and steering colum. After all that i found out that u only had to remove the AC ducts that are in the way there are two of them so that u can remove the bolts from the top hidden area. U still have to remove the steering colum but that is not too hard. Once i had it out i had the part welded back together now its bullet proof. I would recommend that if you ever have a heavy clutch to the point of snapping your pedel assembly i would add extra strength to that part before putting any kind of racing clutch. Plus this is the cheapest way of doing this.
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Drop the steering column.
Get some swivels to get to the "hard to reach" nut on the assbembly bracket.
You don't have to pull the dash, but if your dash is easy to remove then you might just want to go that route. It will make it easier.
Get some swivels to get to the "hard to reach" nut on the assbembly bracket.
You don't have to pull the dash, but if your dash is easy to remove then you might just want to go that route. It will make it easier.
I had been running a 2600lb pressure plate in an '88 4 door and yesterday I snapped my clutch pedal assembly. The aluminum that Honda uses will not support that kind of application. It took me 3 hours to remove the assembly, drive to Maxi, and then replace it. This is the method I used.
1. Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding the steering column on.
2. Remove the 2 heating ducts. This will reveal the hidden bolt that people often miss.
3. Loosen the clutch cable at the transmission and take it off.
4. Disconnect the clutch cable hook where it connects to the pedal.
5. Disconnect the cable and the return spring for the accelerator.
6. Remove the cotter pin and the pin itself from the brake booster.
7. Remove the 6 (i think) nuts holding the assembly to the firewall.
At this point you should be able to slide it right out.
1. Remove the 4 bolts and 2 nuts holding the steering column on.
2. Remove the 2 heating ducts. This will reveal the hidden bolt that people often miss.
3. Loosen the clutch cable at the transmission and take it off.
4. Disconnect the clutch cable hook where it connects to the pedal.
5. Disconnect the cable and the return spring for the accelerator.
6. Remove the cotter pin and the pin itself from the brake booster.
7. Remove the 6 (i think) nuts holding the assembly to the firewall.
At this point you should be able to slide it right out.
When i replced my pedal cluster bracket/assembly, the main pain in the *** was the heater ducting getting in the way. I also left my dash in. Pull the driver seat out too, that way u lay on ur back. This is on a 89 hatch DX.
i have replaced my pedal bracket 4 times now, got it down to where i can take the old one out and put a new one in in less then 1 hour lol, the first time it took me around 10 hours to do it
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