I am not sure the shop said it was normal but I thought it should be higher.

Engine internally stock B18C with unknown milage.

#1) 150
#2) 150
#3) 155
#4) 165

Thanks,

 

little low depending on how they comp tested it ex... wide open throttle , ecu fuse removed (no fuel in cylinders) 3-5-or7 clicks on guage ect.

 

Thats kinda low. A strong gsr motor should pull numbers near 200psi.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HOOKUPS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">little low depending on how they comp tested it ex... wide open throttle , ecu fuse removed (no fuel in cylinders) 3-5-or7 clicks on guage ect.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have never done either test so I have no clue what you are talking about.
Can you explain how it would differ depending on how they tested it (so I can ask when I go back on Mon)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ti3d in &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats kinda low. A strong gsr motor should pull numbers near 200psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I thought to but they said my problem was I am running rich ,and when they are done tuning it it will be up to at least 160whp

 

Looks low, when we tested my B16 we waited for the engine to cool down a little, unplugged the dizzy and started the test. over 210 all the way across

 

there are many opinions about this but i believe a proper comp test is accomplished with the motor warm , ecu fuse removes( to dissable fuel system) and throttle wide open

 

**** I have 220-240 comp on my stock B16A. lol Somethigs wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HOOKUPS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are many opinions about this but i believe a proper comp test is accomplished with the motor warm , ecu fuse removes( to dissable fuel system) and throttle wide open</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info!

 

There are a few other things to remember:

1. Gauges differ in their readings. Some read high and others read low. And if the gauge is one that has to be held in the hole, it could leak, lowering the readings.
2. A weak battery will not turn the engine as fast. More air will leak past the rings and give you low readings.
3. If the fuel is not cut off, it will lower the readings.

Just for reference, my JDM B18C5 (11:1 compression) reads 265-270psi acrss the board with my gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There are a few other things to remember:

1. Gauges differ in their readings. Some read high and others read low. And if the gauge is one that has to be held in the hole, it could leak, lowering the readings.
2. A weak battery will not turn the engine as fast. More air will leak past the rings and give you low readings.
3. If the fuel is not cut off, it will lower the readings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks , I will assume it is good for now since it is a good shop that did the test and they do build engines (so it would be in there best intrest for it to be bad) if it puts out decent numbers after being tuned I will go with it and do a rebuild next year.

 

thanx just tryin to help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxgsr91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it puts out decent numbers after being tuned I will go with it and do a rebuild next year.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tuning won't help with your compression numbers. Unless, of course, your valve timing is off. My recommendation: buy your own compression gauge and do a compression test yourself. The gauges are relatively cheap (~$30). And a compression test is easy to do. Just make sure you get a gauge that SCREWS into the spark plug holes rather than one that needs to be HELD IN BY HAND.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Tuning won't help with your compression numbers. Unless, of course, your valve timing is off. My recommendation: buy your own compression gauge and do a compression test yourself. The gauges are relatively cheap (~$30). And a compression test is easy to do. Just make sure you get a gauge that SCREWS into the spark plug holes rather than one that needs to be HELD IN BY HAND.</TD></TR></TABLE>


I ment HP numbers, I will check it out and do it myself thanks for the info.

 

i got 240 on my stock jdm gsr...so that is really low. my b16 had 210-220.

 

One more thing. When you do the compression test yourself, you want to do a 'dry' compression test (no oil poured in the spark plug holes) and a 'wet' compression test (a small amount of oil poured into each spark plug hole). This will determine what needs to be done to correct the compression problem. If the wet test does not produce numbers that are significantly greater, then you know the valves are leaking. This is important to know since it means that you only need to pull the head and have a valve job done to fix the problem. Of course, a leakdown test would tell you the same thing.

 

a leakdown test would tell you the same thing

I had a leakdown test done at the same time.

#1) 3%
#2) 4%
#3) 5%
#4) 5%

 

leak down is fine...my 9:1 b18c1 pulled 170.165.160.165, which i thought was alittle low but i was looking for consistency.

 

It may also depend on what brand compression tester you use. I had a cheap $20 Auto Zone one that gave me 160-170 every single time I tried it at WOT and with a warm engine dry. I then lost it and got a Snap On tester that hit 220 straight across.

Like they've said, just for consistency, not numbers.

 

Like they've said, just for consistency, not numbers.

Well if we are looking for consistancy what about cylinder #4 at 165 the rest of the cylinders were within 5 psi.

 

Try adjusting the valves if you haven't already. If theres not a dramatic difference like yours, I wouldn't worry. If the difference is more than 20, then you might have a problem.

What brand tester are you using?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 98 1162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try adjusting the valves if you haven't already. If theres not a dramatic difference like yours, I wouldn't worry. If the difference is more than 20, then you might have a problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am getting it dyno tuned very soon I will have them check the valves

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 98 1162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What brand tester are you using? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I did not do the test but if the whp is low after tuning I will go ahead and check it myself.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 98 1162 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It may also depend on what brand compression tester you use. I had a cheap $20 Auto Zone one that gave me 160-170 every single time I tried it at WOT and with a warm engine dry. I then lost it and got a Snap On tester that hit 220 straight across.

Like they've said, just for consistency, not numbers. </TD></TR></TABLE>

wth serious? I've been using an autozone special too. Time to get a high quality gauge.

 

What should it read for 12.2 cr ... i did one and it says 220 -240 on all 4 ...thats with the throttle closed!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by radeon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What should it read for 12.2 cr ... i did one and it says 220 -240 on all 4 ...thats with the throttle closed!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then why don't you do it the CORRECT way and find out instead of asking us?!