OK my car is a 98 Prelude with I/E. I have come to the conclusion my car is running rich. Because of the black soot I'm blowing and it is all over the back of the car. I'm going to do a build up later after I buy a few more parts.
Ok short story. The other day after I came back from the hospital ( My baby boy was born...,"Can you say HONDA") I had the hood up on the Lude and my dad dropped in and we were talking about things. When he noticed I had a good 2 inch crack in the top of my coil. Now I'm going to replace this with a blaster coil from msd when I get my ignition. But in the mean time do you think that I'm not getting enough juice to the spark plugs to burn the fuel? Just wondering if this by itself have alot or even a little to do with me running rich. Thanks for any help guys.

 

bump... Would it cause any type of problem. Does the coil just work or don't work? Does it get bad to worse or just stop working?

 

It shouldn't cause you to run rich; the soot on the back of the bumper is from the factory's rich tune in VTEC as well as probably some good oil burning that Preludes are notorious for.

Replace the coil anyways, but it's not causing the problem.

 

What kind of problems would a bad coil cause?

I have an issue with my 240SX that I think might be related to the ignition coil.

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind of problems would a bad coil cause?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A bad coil can cause several different problems, but the most common are:
1) A no-start condition.
2) Engine misfire.
3) A hesitation when accelerating.

 

240s dont have coil , they have 4 individual coil packs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It shouldn't cause you to run rich; the soot on the back of the bumper is from the factory's rich tune in VTEC as well as probably some good oil burning that Preludes are notorious for.

Replace the coil anyways, but it's not causing the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I could link you to my stock dyno, but it has already been posted several times.

Just to let you know, from 5200-7700 my A/F ratio went from 11.5:1-10.5:1.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cmrvi1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

A bad coil can cause several different problems, but the most common are:
1) A no-start condition.
2) Engine misfire.
3) A hesitation when accelerating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm, well I have symptoms of all three. VERY rarely does the car not want to start. I have to crank it over for literally 1min 30 sec.

I have a MAJOR hesitation issue with my car when I push the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way to the floor.

Thanks for the help!!

Andy

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hmm, well I have symptoms of all three. VERY rarely does the car not want to start. I have to crank it over for literally 1min 30 sec.

I have a MAJOR hesitation issue with my car when I push the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way to the floor.

Thanks for the help!!

Andy</TD></TR></TABLE>THREAD JACKER!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Matgallis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THREAD JACKER! </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHA. Sorry. I bought this car a month ago and I can't figure out this bogging/hesitation issue. It should be univeral for most cars, right??

Here is what I've done;

Items changed:
Distributor cap
Rotor
Spark plug wires
Spark plugs
O2 Sensor
300ZX TT fuel filter
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Negative battery terminal

I checked the engine bay for vacuum leaks. I found the hose underneath the BPT (thing attached to the intake manifold with 3 tubes going to it.) with a pretty good sized hole. I replaced the hose. No difference.

I have disconnected the AIC device (the black contraption that allows exhaust fumes back into the intake box near the air filter)

I plugged the EGR valve.

If I unplug the MAF, the car dies out almost immediately

If I unplug the TPS, the car almost dies immediately

I put injector cleaner and filled up with Premium gas. I used intake cleaner too.

Oil has been changed.

I ran another ground wire to another point on the chassis.

I am not throwing an CEL or codes

The battery light lights up on the dash half way at idle and slowly fades out as the RPMs increase. However, it never totally turns off. This is the ONLY other thing that I see wrong with the car. It idles pretty well too.

At idle, if I push the gas pedal down more than 15%-100% of the way to full throttle, the car bogs BAD! It will rev from 500-1000 rpms in a repetitive sequence. However, less than 15% of full throttle, the car revs almost perfectly fine. Same thing happens while driving on the streets. The car accelerates better if I slowly push the pedal down and to a certain point. Beyond that point, the car will bog.

 

If you have access to a new battery (or one that is charged well), I would throw that in real quick and see if there is a difference.

If there is, sounds like electrical. Probably Alternator and a new battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a MAJOR hesitation issue with my car when I push the gas pedal down more than 15% of the way to the floor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you tested your fuel pressure?