screwing on cars is cool
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: official euro R hospital, AUSTRIA
We begon the install at 0830 in the morning.
We removed the whole head with the header and the Supercharger on. We needed about 3.5 hours. I think it is not bad for the first time.
Then we replaced the stock valve springs and retainers with the crower ones. Easy work with the right tools. After that work, the Hondata gasket got into his place. I do not have the race setup and drilled the big coolant hole from the gasket out. So I haveŽnt replaced the coolant lines.
I thought the easiest part would be the ENDYN stepper pulley, but it was a pain in the butt. The "offset" of the stock JR pulley is exact 10mm while the ENDYN is only 9mm. So it has rubbed on the alternator so hard, that it could not spin. I thought WTF and we measured a few things out. First I wanted to do a kind of washer into the alternator, but then the belts would be off by 1mm. (I donŽt know how to explain it in english, but you get some pics when my ****** USB port is working)
So we "drilled" 1mm from the alternator off, that it wouldŽnt rubb anymore.
The head is back on now and all the lines, wires, sensors. Only work for tomorrow is to install the cams, gears, timing belt and a few thing more.
All in all it was a cool work with no problems except the ENDYN pulley.
We removed the whole head with the header and the Supercharger on. We needed about 3.5 hours. I think it is not bad for the first time.
Then we replaced the stock valve springs and retainers with the crower ones. Easy work with the right tools. After that work, the Hondata gasket got into his place. I do not have the race setup and drilled the big coolant hole from the gasket out. So I haveŽnt replaced the coolant lines.
I thought the easiest part would be the ENDYN stepper pulley, but it was a pain in the butt. The "offset" of the stock JR pulley is exact 10mm while the ENDYN is only 9mm. So it has rubbed on the alternator so hard, that it could not spin. I thought WTF and we measured a few things out. First I wanted to do a kind of washer into the alternator, but then the belts would be off by 1mm. (I donŽt know how to explain it in english, but you get some pics when my ****** USB port is working)
So we "drilled" 1mm from the alternator off, that it wouldŽnt rubb anymore.
The head is back on now and all the lines, wires, sensors. Only work for tomorrow is to install the cams, gears, timing belt and a few thing more.
All in all it was a cool work with no problems except the ENDYN pulley.
Yeah, screwing on cars is definitely a turn on. I remember this one time i was doing this girl on the hood of a.......... oh wait, that's not what you meant. sorry.
Anyway, let us know how it comes out.
Anyway, let us know how it comes out.
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Crower springs? Are you sure you want to put stronger springs on your car? They wont give really any power, nor will they do anything thats of any value to a JRSC setup.
With a JRSC, aftermarkets valve springs wouldn't help us because getting the highest lift possible with a JRSC isn't that big of a thing as it is with a NA engine.
When I did my valve train, I just put in some retainers to lighten up things a bit since I'm reving so high. The way the boost bleeds off do to the compression bleeding off when reving to redline I was able to get away with just retainers. When I drag I rev my car to a indictated 9500rpms which is around 9000rpms real rpms. However when I was dragging last time, when I would launch I kept spinning the tires and immeditally pinning the tach at 10k rpms during the 60fts. The engine was fine, etc... because we programmed a safe type gaurd/limiter on the ECU to have data information their if the engine does rev that high.
Let us all know how the dyno tuning goes on the car and how smooth it rev's when your all done.
With a JRSC, aftermarkets valve springs wouldn't help us because getting the highest lift possible with a JRSC isn't that big of a thing as it is with a NA engine.
When I did my valve train, I just put in some retainers to lighten up things a bit since I'm reving so high. The way the boost bleeds off do to the compression bleeding off when reving to redline I was able to get away with just retainers. When I drag I rev my car to a indictated 9500rpms which is around 9000rpms real rpms. However when I was dragging last time, when I would launch I kept spinning the tires and immeditally pinning the tach at 10k rpms during the 60fts. The engine was fine, etc... because we programmed a safe type gaurd/limiter on the ECU to have data information their if the engine does rev that high.
Let us all know how the dyno tuning goes on the car and how smooth it rev's when your all done.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 4,567
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From: official euro R hospital, AUSTRIA
I wanted the safest setup when I rev so high. I thought and most people recommended to me to put stronger valve springs too into the engine. Is there any downside of running stronger springs?
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