has anyone else had this problem? my radiator cracked on the top black part that runs across the engine bay. and it cracked right where that big black plastic air intake tube bolts to it. that pissed me off. i must have leaned on it or put pressure on it at some point so a nice hairline crack developed...and grew. anyway that was a few weeks ago and the new radiator/hoses are installed now. is that plastic tube that goes across the front of the engine bay even necessary? it just connects to another tube that runs into the air filter assembly i think.

 

well if it was the original radiator it was old and that was the weak spot. I think the rubber hose you are talking about is the overflow hose. It should go to the bottle off behind the headlight.

 

no it wasn't the original. and no, i know what the tube that runs to the overflow bottle is. i'm talking about the HUGE pipe that connects to the air filter assembly which leads to another black tube which leads to the throttle body etc. etc. etc. it all starts in this big plastic tube. i might just take it out. i duct taped it this time cause i don't want to stress the top of the radiator again.

 

wtf are you talkin about dood? can you take a picture of what your talkin about?

 

i think i know what your talking about. its a plastic tube that helps the intake take in fresh air. i always take those off.

 

I think you're talking about the resonator. Its just there so the intake is nice and quiet. Atleast I'm pretty sure thats it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by manson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think i know what your talking about. its a plastic tube that helps the intake take in fresh air. i always take those off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think thats what it is too. Take that crap out of there. Most people on here sound they have NO clue as to what this is. Thats probably due to the fact that they have NEVER seen a completely original engine bay, and i mean completely original.

 

Here's a picture of what he's talking about, and yes you can take it off. The resonator is a seperate piece in the in the fender that the tube connects too, and you can remove that too.

 

if its that pipe, you dont need it... and you cant expect plastic to last forever. after 14 years of hot and cold.. plastic gives out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90civichbsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if its that pipe, you dont need it... and you cant expect plastic to last forever. after 14 years of hot and cold.. plastic gives out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup, its not a design flaw. It was there for a purpose, at least an engineer thought so.

 

Yes one of mine cracked too. That's what happens to thin plastic after 15 years of hot and cold, hot and cold. LOL It becomes very fragile.

 

YANK IT OUT!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fourthgenhatchB17 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think thats what it is too. Take that crap out of there. Most people on here sound they have NO clue as to what this is. Thats probably due to the fact that they have NEVER seen a completely original engine bay, and i mean completely original.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hahhaha......so true. That was the first thing to go once I got my car. I don't think i know anyone who still has it.

 

i still have mine, cause i like to keep mine stock. but yeah on my other crx's i just took it off. it wont affect anything.

 

you are all confused, the originator is asking about the upper radiator tank under the intake tube.

replace the radiator, the original one is fragile and cracks due to age.
stan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people on here sound they have NO clue as to what this is. Thats probably due to the fact that they have NEVER seen a completely original engine bay, and i mean completely original.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spaceman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf are you talkin about dood? can you take a picture of what your talkin about?</TD></TR></TABLE>


lol, classic...

 

yeah that's the one in the pic. ok i'll probably just yank it soon. that's pretty funny though that no one knows what it is. my engine is completely stock. well, actually i'm in the middle of an mpfi swap but some moron on ebay sent me the wrong IM (sent me one from an EG) so i'm carless at the moment. anyone selling an IM/TB/injectors and fuel rail?? sorry to derail the topic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shorty3788 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> well, actually i'm in the middle of an mpfi swap but some moron on ebay sent me the wrong IM (sent me one from an EG) so i'm carless at the moment. anyone selling an IM/TB/injectors and fuel rail?? sorry to derail the topic.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If u live in the so cal area, i have all the stuff from an EF, but the EG stuff should work fine. It all bolts up.

 

it's not the bolting that's the problem, it's the hoses and lines and stuff.

 

i have a crack in a similar place with my stock radiator

http://www.radiators.com/ &lt;-- great guys, cheap radiators

 

that's probably one of the rarest USDM parts at this time in the "supppped up civic world"....

 

Ha, that tube and the wheel well moldings are the first things to go on my cars.

 

why the wheel well moldings? my brother hit a curb and knocked one out in his EG. he doesn't like it, just made it louder on the inside, not like they weigh enough to make a difference.

 

The moldings trap moisture and salt in there and cause them to rust out faster.

 

another EF design flaw.

Front
Wheel
Drive.


I rest my case.