Accord axle nut removal help
First of all thanks for your time. Second y did honda make the front rotor set up like this? How do you remove the axle nut? I tried impact gun, jumping on it with a 5ft cheater bar( thank god for craftsmans life time warrany on tools) with no avial but a broken rachet. Is righty tighty and lefty loosie right? IS the axel nuts threaded the opposite way? Help its driving me nuts. Need to get to those brakes and rotors. Thanks
Oh yeah..95 accord ex
Oh yeah..95 accord ex
Push the pin in? Second if you have tried a impact gun and jumping up and down on a breaker bar chances are it is not going to move. How much pressure are you runnin' on the impact and how well of a impact gun is it.
I dont believe there are special threads...just loosen it like u would any other bolt. Get a bigger impact wrench and turn up the PSI. I sometimes have trouble with my 550 ft lb set at 120 psi. Try hitting the nut both ways (loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten) to jar it loose. Get the penetrating oil out too. Good luck. I dont work on Accords, but u encounter this same situation with crank pulley bolts.
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By the way, yes it is counterclockwise to loosen both of them. Good luck. The special tool is either a powerful impact gun or a breaker bar with an extender (like a shop jack handle) on it.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xyooj »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I tried impact gun, jumping on it with a 5ft cheater bar( thank god for craftsmans life time warrany on tools) with no avial but a broken rachet. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Its_real&its_spectacular »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The special tool is either a powerful impact gun or a breaker bar with an extender (like a shop jack handle) on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He already tried the impact, and oh yeah, what do you think a CHEATER bar is?
Nothing new here so are you just upping your posts or what?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Its_real&its_spectacular »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The special tool is either a powerful impact gun or a breaker bar with an extender (like a shop jack handle) on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
He already tried the impact, and oh yeah, what do you think a CHEATER bar is?
Nothing new here so are you just upping your posts or what?
well your right about that .... but the tool is used on other cars ... its pressured on rotors its a tool that has 4 legs that go on each bolt and you pull on it a few times then it comes out ... i had to do it on mine and it cost me 60 bucks to chage them ... prices in nyc tho .... had a crack head do it lol
well if you want to change your rotors i would take it to the shop ...(where u know its cheap) i had both front rotors changed for $60 crack head price...but i went to the shop and it was $80 ...the tool it self is like $150....so i think u would wanna go to the shop
replacing the rotors really isn't as hard as people make it out to be. i changed mine out in under an hour. you need to rent a slide hammer, i rented one for $20 from autozone. then you wanna buy a 2 jaw gear puller. its your best friend. i have used it a few times now. it was $20 from advance auto parts. i used it to seperate the lower ball joint.
first you wanna remove the axle nut which you have done
then you wanna seperate the lower ball joint by removing the cotter pin, and taking off the 17mm castle nut.
then slide the rotor/hub around and remove the 4 bolts that bolt the hub/wheel bearing to the spindle.
then remove the 4 bolts that bolt the rotor to the hub on the front side. then put your slide hammer on two of the lugs and tighten it down with two lug nuts. then slide away and take out your anger. took me about 7-8 blows per side. it will pop right out
then put your new rotor on and tighten the bolts down. now put the hub back into the spindle and tighten the bolts in from the backside. it will pull the hub and wheel bearing back into the spindle. then tighten everything down really tight.
make sure you put some locktight on the bolts that bolt the rotor to the hub and tighten them as tight as you can. mine ended up backing out after a few weeks. luckily i caught it in time.
then bolt everything else you took off and be sure to replace the cotter pin.
first you wanna remove the axle nut which you have done
then you wanna seperate the lower ball joint by removing the cotter pin, and taking off the 17mm castle nut.
then slide the rotor/hub around and remove the 4 bolts that bolt the hub/wheel bearing to the spindle.
then remove the 4 bolts that bolt the rotor to the hub on the front side. then put your slide hammer on two of the lugs and tighten it down with two lug nuts. then slide away and take out your anger. took me about 7-8 blows per side. it will pop right out
then put your new rotor on and tighten the bolts down. now put the hub back into the spindle and tighten the bolts in from the backside. it will pull the hub and wheel bearing back into the spindle. then tighten everything down really tight.
make sure you put some locktight on the bolts that bolt the rotor to the hub and tighten them as tight as you can. mine ended up backing out after a few weeks. luckily i caught it in time.
then bolt everything else you took off and be sure to replace the cotter pin.
I use my 18" Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar with 4' pipe I bought from Home Depot. Just have someone stand on your brake pedal while breaking the nut loose. Works everytime.
be careful when taking a slide hammer to your rotor...i experienced this on my accord...i took the bolts off the front and off the back side of the rotor and still managed to split the wheel bearing apart...luckily i didn't loose any of the ***** inside...but this is a common problem with this type of rotor setup...good luck.
using 36mm short socket with impact gun, tighten and loosen couple times with WD40. loosen ball join nut and remove the outter axle off the hub bearing, there are four 10mm or 12mm bolts ( 12 point bolts ) loosen them and remove the whole hub assembly off the knuckle then loosen four 14mm bolts ( becarefull they are easy to strip). I do not recommended to use slide hammer because you will damage your hub bearing when you put them back together. take your time . good luck.


