Cheap Wideband
Where can I find a cheap DIY wideband. I am up for the challenge due to I am at school and have nothing else to do since I can't work on my car here. Let me know if you have any good suggestions and also some that I should stay away from. Thanks
James
P.S. List what I should pay for them
James
P.S. List what I should pay for them
If a wide band works like a normal O2 sensor then it should just output a voltage depending on the mixture. You could then find out what voltage levels are equivalent to Fuel/Air ratios.
Then you have some options.
1. Get a multimeter (or just a voltmeter) and directly read the reading. Digital may jump around too much, analog may be more readable...but proceed to option 2 if case.
2. Buy a voltage guage...find one in the appropriate size (if wideband O2 outputs maximum of 9V, then you don't want to buy a 50V guage because the needle will hardly move). Then mark Stoich, Lean, and Rich.
Voltage Gauge

3. If your really up to a challenge, you could buy a PIC (programable integrated circuit) from Microchip, program it with Basic or machine language. Hook up a LED to the various outputs, and upon certain voltage levels light up one of the LED's.
Not sure what kind of classes your taking or how experienced you are with electronics, but option 3 would be the coolest...you can order a "sample" chip for free (they only cost like $5-$10 over the counter though), then buy a PCB board, other related electronics, and enclosure..probably cost $100-$200 depending on complexity of your design, and whether or not you have to buy a chip programer (can make one cheap, or buy cheap kits....assembled ones are expensive). Option 2 would be the most practical though.
Then you have some options.
1. Get a multimeter (or just a voltmeter) and directly read the reading. Digital may jump around too much, analog may be more readable...but proceed to option 2 if case.
2. Buy a voltage guage...find one in the appropriate size (if wideband O2 outputs maximum of 9V, then you don't want to buy a 50V guage because the needle will hardly move). Then mark Stoich, Lean, and Rich.
Voltage Gauge

3. If your really up to a challenge, you could buy a PIC (programable integrated circuit) from Microchip, program it with Basic or machine language. Hook up a LED to the various outputs, and upon certain voltage levels light up one of the LED's.
Not sure what kind of classes your taking or how experienced you are with electronics, but option 3 would be the coolest...you can order a "sample" chip for free (they only cost like $5-$10 over the counter though), then buy a PCB board, other related electronics, and enclosure..probably cost $100-$200 depending on complexity of your design, and whether or not you have to buy a chip programer (can make one cheap, or buy cheap kits....assembled ones are expensive). Option 2 would be the most practical though.
Nope. I had the same idea at first but there is actually a lot that goes into a wideband controller.
Not only does it have to calculate the AFR (which it does with a lot of corrections, not just a basic voltage table), but it also has to accurately control the heater circuit and the Nernst cell voltage.
There are several DIY wideband options out there. Personally, though, I decided to buy a Twin-Tech WEGO controller because it was complete, tested, smaller than any DIY unit and not much more expensive.
The Twin-Tech unit is only $110 or so, which leaves the purchase of a sensor. It uses the expensive NTK sensor, but it is the OEM sensor used in the Honda Insight so sometimes you can get them cheap.
Some other wideband controllers use the less expensive Bosch sensors, but the price of the unit easily offsets the savings in the sensor.
Not only does it have to calculate the AFR (which it does with a lot of corrections, not just a basic voltage table), but it also has to accurately control the heater circuit and the Nernst cell voltage.
There are several DIY wideband options out there. Personally, though, I decided to buy a Twin-Tech WEGO controller because it was complete, tested, smaller than any DIY unit and not much more expensive.
The Twin-Tech unit is only $110 or so, which leaves the purchase of a sensor. It uses the expensive NTK sensor, but it is the OEM sensor used in the Honda Insight so sometimes you can get them cheap.
Some other wideband controllers use the less expensive Bosch sensors, but the price of the unit easily offsets the savings in the sensor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">techedge
$186 but have to put it together</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep thats your only low cost option, which isnt a novice soldering job either. otherwise, $280-500 is your only option. these are low demand, specialized autmotive devices so expect to pay for it. well except maybe that 30$ g-force meter i picked up..
$186 but have to put it together</TD></TR></TABLE>yep thats your only low cost option, which isnt a novice soldering job either. otherwise, $280-500 is your only option. these are low demand, specialized autmotive devices so expect to pay for it. well except maybe that 30$ g-force meter i picked up..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XDEep »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yep thats your only low cost option, which isnt a novice soldering job either. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, and correct. Even for the light duty kit electronics enthusiast, I recommend buying a PLX-300 or the Innovative LM-1 (LM-1 has a groovy datalogging function and digital dashboard dealio when run through a laptop). I make a habit of picking up mis-assembled or broken Techedge kits and fixing them... takes, on average, five hours to diagnose problems. The pinout voltage testss, tracing back circuitry, and other tests in testproc.xls are arduous to say the least!
yep thats your only low cost option, which isnt a novice soldering job either. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Correct, and correct. Even for the light duty kit electronics enthusiast, I recommend buying a PLX-300 or the Innovative LM-1 (LM-1 has a groovy datalogging function and digital dashboard dealio when run through a laptop). I make a habit of picking up mis-assembled or broken Techedge kits and fixing them... takes, on average, five hours to diagnose problems. The pinout voltage testss, tracing back circuitry, and other tests in testproc.xls are arduous to say the least!
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mekkis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Correct, and correct. Even for the light duty kit electronics enthusiast, I recommend buying a PLX-300 or the Innovative LM-1 (LM-1 has a groovy datalogging function and digital dashboard dealio when run through a laptop). I make a habit of picking up mis-assembled or broken Techedge kits and fixing them... takes, on average, five hours to diagnose problems. The pinout voltage testss, tracing back circuitry, and other tests in testproc.xls are arduous to say the least!</TD></TR></TABLE>
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone
Correct, and correct. Even for the light duty kit electronics enthusiast, I recommend buying a PLX-300 or the Innovative LM-1 (LM-1 has a groovy datalogging function and digital dashboard dealio when run through a laptop). I make a habit of picking up mis-assembled or broken Techedge kits and fixing them... takes, on average, five hours to diagnose problems. The pinout voltage testss, tracing back circuitry, and other tests in testproc.xls are arduous to say the least!</TD></TR></TABLE>
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much?
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
how much?
I went with the techedge DIY kit. It was time consuming to build, but really not that hard. The display they offer is pretty decent, but you dont absolutely need it. You can use a $20 palm m100 instead (although the display is definatly easier to read, if you plan on leaving it in your car full-time). The sensor it uses is availible cheaply online, but i buy them for $38 at my local vw dealer.
http://wbo2.com/2a0/kit.htm
http://wbo2.com/2a0/kit.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">techedge
$186 but have to put it together</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm building one right now! It's not that hard if you have soldered PCB's before, just take your time and follow the instructions.
My total was $275 for the kit, wbo2 sensor, cable kit, and display, all shipped...
http://www.wbo2.com
$186 but have to put it together</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm building one right now! It's not that hard if you have soldered PCB's before, just take your time and follow the instructions.My total was $275 for the kit, wbo2 sensor, cable kit, and display, all shipped...
http://www.wbo2.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't stress enough that for the money, the PLX can not be beat. It integrates better than the AEM (even with the AEM system), Hondata, etc, period! This is from experience.
I started off with the techedge and it was fine but I could never get the values to be dead on like I did with my PLX.
Kteller,
PM me a price cause I don't see it on your site. I want another one for tuning other cars.
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
I can't stress enough that for the money, the PLX can not be beat. It integrates better than the AEM (even with the AEM system), Hondata, etc, period! This is from experience.
I started off with the techedge and it was fine but I could never get the values to be dead on like I did with my PLX.
Kteller,
PM me a price cause I don't see it on your site. I want another one for tuning other cars.
WOw . I really appreciate all of the feedback and this will definitely influence my choice but if anyone has one that they don't wanna put togethar and want to get rid of let me know or if someone has done one wrong hit me up because I would like to take a stab at it.
I have a Techedge unit, and if you LIKE building little projects, I'd recommend it. If not, steer VERY clear of it. There's a lot of components on the board and if you're not meticulous in putting it together there's much room for error. Cheapest option out there though, got mine for $208USD shipped witt the kit, cable, and display kit, awhile ago with a slightly better exchange rate.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I started off with the techedge and it was fine but I could never get the values to be dead on like I did with my PLX.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean by that? Just curious. Weren't the values stead or did they jump too far too fast?
I was about to get the techedge b/c all i really wanted was a range 11.5-11.8 or 11.8-12.0 since it's going to change with the weather anyways, i dont really need to get too ****.
I started off with the techedge and it was fine but I could never get the values to be dead on like I did with my PLX.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
What do you mean by that? Just curious. Weren't the values stead or did they jump too far too fast?
I was about to get the techedge b/c all i really wanted was a range 11.5-11.8 or 11.8-12.0 since it's going to change with the weather anyways, i dont really need to get too ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What do you mean by that? Just curious. Weren't the values stead or did they jump too far too fast?
I was about to get the techedge b/c all i really wanted was a range 11.5-11.8 or 11.8-12.0 since it's going to change with the weather anyways, i dont really need to get too ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The values would never correspond to what the Hondata said. I tried everything, literally without taking the wire harness out. A friend bought a PLX for his hondata and the values were dead on. I was sold so I bought one and sure enough, values dead on.
What do you mean by that? Just curious. Weren't the values stead or did they jump too far too fast?
I was about to get the techedge b/c all i really wanted was a range 11.5-11.8 or 11.8-12.0 since it's going to change with the weather anyways, i dont really need to get too ****. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The values would never correspond to what the Hondata said. I tried everything, literally without taking the wire harness out. A friend bought a PLX for his hondata and the values were dead on. I was sold so I bought one and sure enough, values dead on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by notoriousB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I'm building one right now! It's not that hard if you have soldered PCB's before, just take your time and follow the instructions.
My total was $275 for the kit, wbo2 sensor, cable kit, and display, all shipped...
http://www.wbo2.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been looking around that web site and I can't really figure out what to order! I want to buy the complete DIY kit because I think it would be fun to put together myself...
How did you know exactly what to order? Man, that has to be one of the worst web sites I have ever come accross!!
I'm building one right now! It's not that hard if you have soldered PCB's before, just take your time and follow the instructions.My total was $275 for the kit, wbo2 sensor, cable kit, and display, all shipped...
http://www.wbo2.com</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been looking around that web site and I can't really figure out what to order! I want to buy the complete DIY kit because I think it would be fun to put together myself...
How did you know exactly what to order? Man, that has to be one of the worst web sites I have ever come accross!!
http://www.diy-wb.com/
Try this out it looks to be pretty cheap. Please let me know if someone else has used one that way I can decide if I want one also.
Try this out it looks to be pretty cheap. Please let me know if someone else has used one that way I can decide if I want one also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattcalica »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yah, i have a plx-m300 and its awesome...i bought mine from streetrays.com for 325 shipped.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm probably the only one on here with this gripe but... I have been tuning with a friends PLX m300 and dont like it. the numbers jump around WAY too much. Hard as hell to get a reading off the damn thing...
I'm probably the only one on here with this gripe but... I have been tuning with a friends PLX m300 and dont like it. the numbers jump around WAY too much. Hard as hell to get a reading off the damn thing...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dabrown »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I used the PLX and had no problems!! LOL
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol
</TD></TR></TABLE>Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
might be too much for you? really some ppl like it plain and simple.
http://www.kteller.com/store/p.../1022
there is some more details on it, comes with sensor, and all. its damm good IMO
Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
might be too much for you? really some ppl like it plain and simple.
http://www.kteller.com/store/p.../1022
there is some more details on it, comes with sensor, and all. its damm good IMO
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by T-RO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why most people datalog. You'd be pretty stupid to try and monitor every guage you have while tuning a 300+ whp car on the street.
Mabye it was the whole drive, read boost gauge, read RPM's, watch road, change gears, hold wideband thing that was messing me up. lol </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's why most people datalog. You'd be pretty stupid to try and monitor every guage you have while tuning a 300+ whp car on the street.


