Cheap Wideband
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The values would never correspond to what the Hondata said. I tried everything, literally without taking the wire harness out. A friend bought a PLX for his hondata and the values were dead on. I was sold so I bought one and sure enough, values dead on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats because the 0-5v output from the wideband is a <U>simulated</U> output. This is basically a representation of the air/fuel ratio in voltage form. Every wideband has a slightly different output, so say 2.1v on a techedge, is not going to be exactly the same a/f as 2.1v on a PLX or AEM or etc etc. Im not sure about hondata, but uberdatas datalogger now has an option to select which wideband your inputting the signal from, so you can get the right display. Pretty much all the popular widebands are there for selection.
Thats because the 0-5v output from the wideband is a <U>simulated</U> output. This is basically a representation of the air/fuel ratio in voltage form. Every wideband has a slightly different output, so say 2.1v on a techedge, is not going to be exactly the same a/f as 2.1v on a PLX or AEM or etc etc. Im not sure about hondata, but uberdatas datalogger now has an option to select which wideband your inputting the signal from, so you can get the right display. Pretty much all the popular widebands are there for selection.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beepy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There are several DIY wideband options out there. Personally, though, I decided to buy a Twin-Tech WEGO controller because it was complete, tested, smaller than any DIY unit and not much more expensive.
The Twin-Tech unit is only $110 or so, which leaves the purchase of a sensor. It uses the expensive NTK sensor, but it is the OEM sensor used in the Honda Insight so sometimes you can get them cheap.
Some other wideband controllers use the less expensive Bosch sensors, but the price of the unit easily offsets the savings in the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So how does this unit perform? Anyone else used it? It looks to be a good cheap alternative to the others mentioned.
And what does everyone think of the AEM wideband gauge, not considering price, if one is using the aem ems?
There are several DIY wideband options out there. Personally, though, I decided to buy a Twin-Tech WEGO controller because it was complete, tested, smaller than any DIY unit and not much more expensive.
The Twin-Tech unit is only $110 or so, which leaves the purchase of a sensor. It uses the expensive NTK sensor, but it is the OEM sensor used in the Honda Insight so sometimes you can get them cheap.
Some other wideband controllers use the less expensive Bosch sensors, but the price of the unit easily offsets the savings in the sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So how does this unit perform? Anyone else used it? It looks to be a good cheap alternative to the others mentioned.
And what does everyone think of the AEM wideband gauge, not considering price, if one is using the aem ems?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rioninja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Thats because the 0-5v output from the wideband is a <U>simulated</U> output. This is basically a representation of the air/fuel ratio in voltage form. Every wideband has a slightly different output, so say 2.1v on a techedge, is not going to be exactly the same a/f as 2.1v on a PLX or AEM or etc etc. Im not sure about hondata, but uberdatas datalogger now has an option to select which wideband your inputting the signal from, so you can get the right display. Pretty much all the popular widebands are there for selection.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know they are all different, I never said they weren't. My point was I could never pinpoint the correct conversion. Hondata has never had Techedge in their software that I can remember. The plx is there because it was approved by Hondata.
My point was what the display said on the techedge and what the a/f read on the hondata was way off.
The PLX is dead on. Nuff said. PLX is the most for the money, hands down.
Thats because the 0-5v output from the wideband is a <U>simulated</U> output. This is basically a representation of the air/fuel ratio in voltage form. Every wideband has a slightly different output, so say 2.1v on a techedge, is not going to be exactly the same a/f as 2.1v on a PLX or AEM or etc etc. Im not sure about hondata, but uberdatas datalogger now has an option to select which wideband your inputting the signal from, so you can get the right display. Pretty much all the popular widebands are there for selection.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I know they are all different, I never said they weren't. My point was I could never pinpoint the correct conversion. Hondata has never had Techedge in their software that I can remember. The plx is there because it was approved by Hondata.
My point was what the display said on the techedge and what the a/f read on the hondata was way off.
The PLX is dead on. Nuff said. PLX is the most for the money, hands down.
i'm definately a fan of the techedge kits. if you don't need built in datalogging like the techedge units have, and can wait a month or so, a new simplified version is going to be released soon. it is a "bare bones" version so if you're going to be logging through your EMS like with uberdata, AEM, etc, then this might work well for you. i'm sure it will be a very reasonable price too, as all of the TE stuff is.
http://www.wbo2.com/2c0/default.htm
http://www.wbo2.com/2c0/default.htm
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My point was I could never pinpoint the correct conversion. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The Techedge has two outputs you can use, WBLin and SVOut, most people use WBLin because the other is used for the display. Depending on what your ECU was expecting for a signal, that could have easily been the problem.
My point was I could never pinpoint the correct conversion. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The Techedge has two outputs you can use, WBLin and SVOut, most people use WBLin because the other is used for the display. Depending on what your ECU was expecting for a signal, that could have easily been the problem.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Paul_VR6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The Techedge has two outputs you can use, WBLin and SVOut, most people use WBLin because the other is used for the display. Depending on what your ECU was expecting for a signal, that could have easily been the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not the first version. There was the only 1 in the case. I used the one everyone else here was using. Some didn't have the issues I did. I stuck with it for a while but finally got fed up with it.
The new one is a great idea. Most of us don't need the display.
The Techedge has two outputs you can use, WBLin and SVOut, most people use WBLin because the other is used for the display. Depending on what your ECU was expecting for a signal, that could have easily been the problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not the first version. There was the only 1 in the case. I used the one everyone else here was using. Some didn't have the issues I did. I stuck with it for a while but finally got fed up with it.
The new one is a great idea. Most of us don't need the display.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racinskittle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Were u using the 2.0 or 1.5 version?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1.0
1.0
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicnar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.diy-wb.com/
Try this out it looks to be pretty cheap. Please let me know if someone else has used one that way I can decide if I want one also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've built 2 of these. Got my sensors (NTK for Honda) from the wreckers from 92-93 Civic VX for $30 each. They worked well, but I never managed to get around to mounting the boards in a case properly. I used them for about a year, and then started having trouble with them. The heater circuit started acting up, then I mistakenly shorted one of them out. I just didn't have time anymore to play with them. I bought the PLX M300. If you want to buy one of my boards, I let it go cheap. All the components are on the board, but you'll have to find the defective components. I have some spare parts. You'll also have to make up a wiring harness, and get the sensor.
Let me know if you're interested.
Try this out it looks to be pretty cheap. Please let me know if someone else has used one that way I can decide if I want one also. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've built 2 of these. Got my sensors (NTK for Honda) from the wreckers from 92-93 Civic VX for $30 each. They worked well, but I never managed to get around to mounting the boards in a case properly. I used them for about a year, and then started having trouble with them. The heater circuit started acting up, then I mistakenly shorted one of them out. I just didn't have time anymore to play with them. I bought the PLX M300. If you want to buy one of my boards, I let it go cheap. All the components are on the board, but you'll have to find the defective components. I have some spare parts. You'll also have to make up a wiring harness, and get the sensor.
Let me know if you're interested.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've built 2 of these. Got my sensors (NTK for Honda) from the wreckers from 92-93 Civic VX for $30 each. They worked well, but I never managed to get around to mounting the boards in a case properly. I used them for about a year, and then started having trouble with them. The heater circuit started acting up, then I mistakenly shorted one of them out. I just didn't have time anymore to play with them. I bought the PLX M300. If you want to buy one of my boards, I let it go cheap. All the components are on the board, but you'll have to find the defective components. I have some spare parts. You'll also have to make up a wiring harness, and get the sensor.
Let me know if you're interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha thats almost exactly my WB story except I only built one and havent shorted it out. I have a new sensor for sale that works with that WB btw
I've built 2 of these. Got my sensors (NTK for Honda) from the wreckers from 92-93 Civic VX for $30 each. They worked well, but I never managed to get around to mounting the boards in a case properly. I used them for about a year, and then started having trouble with them. The heater circuit started acting up, then I mistakenly shorted one of them out. I just didn't have time anymore to play with them. I bought the PLX M300. If you want to buy one of my boards, I let it go cheap. All the components are on the board, but you'll have to find the defective components. I have some spare parts. You'll also have to make up a wiring harness, and get the sensor.
Let me know if you're interested.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha thats almost exactly my WB story except I only built one and havent shorted it out. I have a new sensor for sale that works with that WB btw
i'm actually saving up for the m500, but i like plx devices because of the quality they seem to put into the construction of their products http://www.plxdevices.com/M-Se...s.htm
"ISO 9002 Certified Assembly" whatever that means..
"ISO 9002 Certified Assembly" whatever that means..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KTeller8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
we sell the plx 300:
Its cheap, efficent and works well with other stand alone and piggy back systems.
i actually have two here left, before the next order. one was disply the other was on the shelf. pm' id like to get them gone</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syner-G-Racing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">$288.89...Zeitronix wide band with datalogging

it has an optional lcd that can read EGT, boost, voltage, and some other acc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im going to get the zeitronix when i buy my wideband.. thats really good price for it! where did you get it from? thanks

it has an optional lcd that can read EGT, boost, voltage, and some other acc.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Im going to get the zeitronix when i buy my wideband.. thats really good price for it! where did you get it from? thanks
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LeGeND4LiFe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So how does this unit perform? Anyone else used it? It looks to be a good cheap alternative to the others mentioned.
And what does everyone think of the AEM wideband gauge, not considering price, if one is using the aem ems?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The WEGO performs great. It is as simple as you can get. 2 wires to splice into the car, connect the harness to the sensor and go. It can be calibrated for using older sensors, is small, and fully urethane potted. I don't think any DIY kit has that going for it; it makes the WEGO basically indestructible.
It also has a 0-5v analog output, for use with a standalone or for external datalogging. It is so small that I put in in place of my factory LCD clock.
So how does this unit perform? Anyone else used it? It looks to be a good cheap alternative to the others mentioned.
And what does everyone think of the AEM wideband gauge, not considering price, if one is using the aem ems?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The WEGO performs great. It is as simple as you can get. 2 wires to splice into the car, connect the harness to the sensor and go. It can be calibrated for using older sensors, is small, and fully urethane potted. I don't think any DIY kit has that going for it; it makes the WEGO basically indestructible.
It also has a 0-5v analog output, for use with a standalone or for external datalogging. It is so small that I put in in place of my factory LCD clock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 0x64 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not cheap but I wasnt looking for cheap. I was looking for something with good datalogging capabilities. I paid $300.00 for everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind is that? datalogging?

Not cheap but I wasnt looking for cheap. I was looking for something with good datalogging capabilities. I paid $300.00 for everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind is that? datalogging?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shortyz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what kind is that? datalogging?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Innovate LM-1.
what kind is that? datalogging?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Innovate LM-1.



