Here's my little story of the B16A that just won't put out!

It has been around 4 months with the B16A in my hatch.

Yes, it is a wonderful motor. However, there is one thing that I have wondered from the beginning but I've never got an answer to: My hatch is a "cx" model (STD), so I had to get my mechanic some Si harness wires for the swap. He needed a resistor box, so I got him that too. He also mentioned that he needed the "purge solenoid valve" from a 90-93 Integra. But he said that I don't 100% NEED it for the car to run. I tried finding some at used parts stores but had no luck. I went to Acura and they said it is about $140 for that part. So I said **** it and kept driving.

I noticed around mid May that my gas tank is leaking. I had to go for another 2 months of military training so I left it. I noticed that my car seems to bog/hesitate and feel jerky only when cruising or when lightly on the throttle. It scared the **** out of me because my old SOHC ZC used to do this to me before and then it blew. That bogging of the zc was because of a clogged cat. But I installed a new highflow cat from magnaflow for this B16A.... so it couldn't be that.

During the training months in Kingston, I've purchased a new battery for my car and high performance wires. Same shitty bogging. So I even changed all the spark plugs with oem ngk platinums and a new oem distributer cap/rotor. Still same ol problem.

Then it came to my last suspect... the leaking gas tank. I picked a nearly new tank for an awsome $100. Got it installed and.......... still same old problem. I would have thought that it was the fuel pressure ******* everything up but I was wrong.

I run only 91 - 94 octane fuel, the motor does not burn any oil, there is no restrictions in the exhaust system, changed all new oem electrical parts....

I am stumped folks. I love my motor and my car but this is bugging me. Please help me! Maybe I should look foward to getting that purge solenoid! Maybe it is a bad pressure plate??

Oh and I'm sorry but I aint done yet!
The motor needs to crank over 7 times almost everytime I start the motor... I have a new battery... so is it the starter i need to replace? Or the alternator?
DAMN I NEED A GOOD TUNE UP

Sorry for long post but this is what H-T is for right!??

 

Have you cleaned the IAC(sp?) valve on the mackside of the intake manifold? When I first installed my B16A, I had to clean mine out. I was getting the same bogging and hesitation like yours.

 

it may be your fuel return pipe. Is it leaking from the driver's side? IF so it could be it and all you have to do is shorten that pipe, and extend the rubber hose...
HTH

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Home Skillet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you cleaned the IAC(sp?) valve on the mackside of the intake manifold? When I first installed my B16A, I had to clean mine out. I was getting the same bogging and hesitation like yours. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea I cleaned that out when I had the up-and-down idle problems. I also tightened the FITV as to the directions of that DIY thread on the FITV. But speaking of these components, I did notice a loss in coolant after I've cleaned the IACV out... maybe one of the rubber rings are shot... I'll have to check that out.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFSiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it may be your fuel return pipe. Is it leaking from the driver's side? IF so it could be it and all you have to do is shorten that pipe, and extend the rubber hose...
HTH
</TD></TR></TABLE>
If there is fuel leaking, I should be able to smell it distinctively. I do not smell any fuel at all, therefore I don't think that any of the lines are leaking.

Thanks guys. Keep the tips coming! They all help in some way or another

 

btw, I just replaced my gas tank, I also had a small leak and I did not notice any hesitation or bogging.

 

ur injectors might be dirty.

 

Anyone else with a first gen B16 in their STD hatch notice the same thing? does anyone know what I'm talking about the PURGE solenoid???

The purge solenoid is one of those little black canister things on the firewall that vac lines and wires connect to


Modified by kim_2_da_chee at 6:03 PM 9/7/2004

 

what ecu are you using, this is a 88-91 hatch with a obd-0 b16a correct?
How many o2 sensors are you using?

 

im using pr3

yes that is correct.

i believe i only have that one o2 sensor at the header

 

on a level of 1 - 10 how bad is it,

More than likely your problem is related to the o2 sensor,

The pr3 ecu requires 2 o2 sensors, 1 o2 for por 1 and 3 and one o2 for port 2 and four, they have to placed in the right locations, if not then the ecu will constantly try to compensate by adding fuel in 2 injectors and taking fuel out of the other.

A common misconception is that you can just jerry rig it to run 1 o2 sensor.

The problem with that is, the ecu says 1 and 3 is too rich and it will pull fuel, and at the same time it will say 2 and 4 are too lean and it will add fuel and vice versus, it will never operate correctly.

Your only options are to run a 4-2-1 header, that has the primarys setup the same way as the stock jdm header, and then you add 2 o2 bungs in the right place option b) buy a hasport header that has the proper o2 locations, option c) buy a used zdyne one wire ecu that will eliminate the need for the 2nd o2 sensor you can find them from 150-250 and then sell your ecu for 150 to cover your cost or option d) socket your ecu, and get a mugen knock off chip that eliminates the 2nd o2 sensor. option e) buy a obd1 distributor, obd1 chipped p28 ecu, wiring conversion harness and obd1 injectors, and a obd1 o2 sensor and conver to obd1


I had problems with my swap using one o2 sensor, and after fooling with it for a few weeks i threw in the towel and bought a zdyne it completely cured my problems.

 

It's not so bad that I can't operate my car properly, it's just an annoying problem of how the car feels while cruising.

Thanks a lot for your help. I guess there are many options for this o2 sensor problem. I'm sure I'll choose one.

BTW would you know the answer to my other small problem?:
The motor needs to crank over 7 times almost everytime I start the motor... I have a new battery... so is it the starter i need to replace? Or the alternator?

 

maybe ur dizzy

 

you might wanna check ur main relay, might be shot and/or check ur fuel injectors as they may be dirty or even cracked.

 

I don't think that it would be necessary to replace the whole distributer assembly. I've already replaced the cap and rotor assembly and that is usually all you need to replace.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kim_2_da_chee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW would you know the answer to my other small problem?:
The motor needs to crank over 7 times almost everytime I start the motor... I have a new battery... so is it the starter i need to replace? Or the alternator?</TD></TR></TABLE>

That could be a number of things
dizzy
coil
ignitor
and all of these things could also be causing the problem your already having.

The o2 sensor thing is hit and miss, some people say it works fine but i had no experience with it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kim_2_da_chee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think that it would be necessary to replace the whole distributer assembly. I've already replaced the cap and rotor assembly and that is usually all you need to replace.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

CAP AND ROTOR ARE FINE MOST OF THE TIME!!!
NOT REALLY KNOW ABOUT OBD0 BUT CAN BE A FEW THINGS MIGHT BE FUEL PUMPING IS GOING OUT

 

Fuel filter clean? What's your fuel pressure?

The purge cutoff soleniod is not needed. My 88 hatch never had one. Connections tight on ignition components? I had to tow my car home one day because of a loose wire on the ignitor.

 

holy ****... i didn't realize that so many things can affect this problem.

Yes my fuel filter was replaced a week before my sohc zc died so im guessing that it is still okay.

The ignitor is in the distributer right? How can I check if it is bad?

I dont know my fuel pressure. I will have to get one of those guages to check it out.

 

wait theres more things it could be..fuel filter clogged or dirty? injectors or injector not working correctly? have you check your grounds? make sure you have them all and hooked up properly..hmm your timing may be off at the crank/cams or at the distributor..really bogging hessitation could be dozens of things..go through all the fixes starting with ez stuff..o ya and get your o2 sensors( that means both of them like you are supposed to have)and put them in the same places as stock..good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on a level of 1 - 10 how bad is it,

More than likely your problem is related to the o2 sensor,

The pr3 ecu requires 2 o2 sensors, 1 o2 for por 1 and 3 and one o2 for port 2 and four, they have to placed in the right locations, if not then the ecu will constantly try to compensate by adding fuel in 2 injectors and taking fuel out of the other.

A common misconception is that you can just jerry rig it to run 1 o2 sensor.

The problem with that is, the ecu says 1 and 3 is too rich and it will pull fuel, and at the same time it will say 2 and 4 are too lean and it will add fuel and vice versus, it will never operate correctly.

Your only options are to run a 4-2-1 header, that has the primarys setup the same way as the stock jdm header, and then you add 2 o2 bungs in the right place option b) buy a hasport header that has the proper o2 locations, option c) buy a used zdyne one wire ecu that will eliminate the need for the 2nd o2 sensor you can find them from 150-250 and then sell your ecu for 150 to cover your cost or option d) socket your ecu, and get a mugen knock off chip that eliminates the 2nd o2 sensor. option e) buy a obd1 distributor, obd1 chipped p28 ecu, wiring conversion harness and obd1 injectors, and a obd1 o2 sensor and conver to obd1


I had problems with my swap using one o2 sensor, and after fooling with it for a few weeks i threw in the towel and bought a zdyne it completely cured my problems.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are the correct locations? I am also running 1 o2 sensor. Is that why I get crappy gas milage?

 

I think o2 sensors is the problem. part throttle and cruising only, exactly when the o2's do their work

obd-0 b16a o2 sensor pics...

this is what you SHOULD be doing.

 

Not really related to the problem but that coolant loss is probably the o-ring gasket for the IACV leaking. You can either go get a new gasket or just dab some hondabond on it to seal it off. I had mine leak also.

 

Thanks guys.
I now have to save up for this o2 sensor.. i think they cost 150
And for a header too.. dammit.
I might as well just do the whole exhaust system from header to muffler

 

uh,

universal 1 wire o2 sensor is 19.00 from autozone, you dont need one with a plug since your running the wire yourself.

the more important question is what header are you using.

 

omg i got jipped

i have the stock b16a header