Hey guys,

I'm terrible at understanding car audio, and i've tried numerous times in leeching the information but I cant find a case that closely resembles mine, probably because the wiring is all wrong thanks to the previous owner.

I have a JBL 4 channel amp that is not only pushing all of the stock speakers in the car, but is also bridged to power two 10" Rockford punches (I'm not completely sure which punches they are, possibly the HE2s)

I think a picture would best describe how things are wired right now....



I am pretty sure the subs should be driven by a seperate amp, but is the wiring ok right now? is there a better way to wire all the stock speakers AND bridge two 10" subs?

Should i be running the front and rear speakers out of the front outputs and save the rear output to be bridged?

Please shoot me some ideas on how to wire this up without a second amp while getting the best sound. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

i'm doubting your stock speakers are drawing enough power to need an external amp. i would recommend putting those back on the internal amp in the HU and just running the subs off of the amp. i'm not sure how dangerous your wiring is but i would rather just run the subs off a channel on the amp.

 

should've mentioned it above... but my front door speakers + tweeters arent stock, they're rockfords, I'm not sure which model (got them for free).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lenn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys,

I'm terrible at understanding car audio, and i've tried numerous times in leeching the information but I cant find a case that closely resembles mine, probably because the wiring is all wrong thanks to the previous owner.

I have a JBL 4 channel amp that is not only pushing all of the stock speakers in the car, but is also bridged to power two 10" Rockford punches (I'm not completely sure which punches they are, possibly the HE2s)

I think a picture would best describe how things are wired right now....



I am pretty sure the subs should be driven by a seperate amp, but is the wiring ok right now? is there a better way to wire all the stock speakers AND bridge two 10" subs?

Should i be running the front and rear speakers out of the front outputs and save the rear output to be bridged?

Please shoot me some ideas on how to wire this up without a second amp while getting the best sound. Any help is greatly appreciated!</TD></TR></TABLE> That is called multi mode, and is ok for that amp, but there must be at least a coil on the subs,[ passive lowpass filter] and caps on the front and rear speakers, [passive highpass filter] although there may not be caps,you do need the coil.
And I agree somewhat with what rice says, but I would connect the rear speakers to the HU and run the fronts off two ch. of the amp and run the sub off the other 2,[ bridged mono] if the amp has x-overs, use them, if not, run the fronts fullrange, or cap them, but use the coil on the sub, 94


Modified by fcm at 3:12 AM 9/8/2004

 

haha holy crap i just looked at your location... i'm from binghamton too!! i drive a blue EF hatch. what do you have?? btw... fcm has the right answer. run the fronts off the the front two channels with a HPF and the subs bridged off the rear channel with the LPF.

 

Your wiring is fine depending on what subs and amplifier you have. If those are 4 ohm speakers then that is a 2ohm load that the amplifier sees. As long as the amplifier can handle a 2 ohm load bridged then your fine. If it is a typical 4 channel then it is only stable with a 4 ohm bridged load. I also wouldn't run rears attatched that way. If you want to run rears hook them to the front or get another amp.

What you have to watch for with it configured this way is how hot the amplifier gets.

 

watch for smoke and/or flames as that is another indication along with the amp getting hot that it's not going to work that way with your amp