After changing to a thicker oil and letting the car warm up the pressure was still down..........................so

An all to familar site:



An another one:



For not making my living as a auto tech I am very good at getting this in and out in a very timely fashion by myself (4 installs and 5 removals in 12 months)

Time to pull the pan:

What is that in the oil pump pickup?



Oh, Its just more bearing pieces




I didn't tear down anymore, just bagged it and pushed it into the corner.

My stock ITR short block will be here on wens or thurs (holiday?) I am going to swap in either B16A or CTR pistons to raise compression (my head has been ported to 46cc cambers comparded to stock B18c5 42.7cc so compression would nbe 9.9:1 without a piston swap) The engine will be in very shortly after. I'll keep you posted.

Mattj


Modified by Dropspeed at 12:29 PM 9/5/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dropspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What is that in the oil pump pickup?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

 

oh man

sh*t bearings

but which intake manifold is this? just for peak power or overall perfomance?

looks very nice the entire engine...

 

It is a stock ITR that has been extrude honed and powder coated Wrinkle black.

Picture just looks funny,



Mattj

 

Who (what company) made the crankshaft you were using?

 

You don't think there's any chance the shavings are normal for a new motor and just happened to get clogged in the strainer? If everything looks normal w/ the crank journals and bearings any chance you'll clean all the shavings out and throw the motor back in? I'm not saying they are normal (I really don't know) but man I'd love to see that motor running strong in your car

Are you going to keep the car w/ the stock block???

 

Any ideas yet on what caused the quick bearing failure?

I think I remember reading elsewhere that this time around the clearances were not as wide, is that what you thought was the problem the last time around?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't think there's any chance the shavings are normal for a new motor and just happened to get clogged in the strainer? If everything looks normal w/ the crank journals and bearings any chance you'll clean all the shavings out and throw the motor back in? I'm not saying they are normal (I really don't know) but man I'd love to see that motor running strong in your car

Are you going to keep the car w/ the stock block???</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah man, i dont want to see you giving up either.. is there any way you can check everything?!??!

 

if i recall correctly, the first time around it was an eagle crank, scat, the second.

and to those wondering, those bearing particles aren't normal, nor acceptable.

now that i think of it, Matt didn't you have the ls-width rods notched to accept the narrower, coated b18c bearings at least on the first build? i wonder if with the increased vibration from the longer stroke, if using narrower bearings increased the bearing load, since the surface area is smaller. i could be wrong, but it seems to me a likely explanation as to why honda coated the b18c bearings in the first place. they made the pin journals narrower to keep more meat on the crank to handle the increased load from more power and rpm, and they likely reduced the stroke for the same reasons- less sideloading, and keeping the mass closer to the
rotational axis also reduces flex, twist, and associated harmonics and vibrations.

 

What will it be with the CTRs after the loss of compression from the head?

 

The use of narrower bearings on wide journal cranks insures that you'll lose a significant amount of oil "support" due to excessive pressure leakage between the edge of the bearing and the (wider) crank journal corner radius.
I can tell you this on Eagle cranks...I have yet to use one that wasn't full of crud. We've repeatedly asked Eagle not to plug the oil holes (with ball bearings) until after the crank's journals are machined, or at least tap the holes for removeable screw-in plugs, but our requests have fallen on deaf ears.
Spending two days cleaning new cranks out and still not getting all the debris is a real bummer.
We haven't used an Eagle crank in over a year and a half as a result.
I haven't used or seen a Scat crank, so I can't comment on them. We use either factory, Crower, or Moldex cranks in all our engines.

 

that sucks man. any material in the oil pan besides oil is bad ****** news. GL with the new motor

 

ouch

 

holy crap

 

Sorry Matt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chris93Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't think there's any chance the shavings are normal for a new motor and just happened to get clogged in the strainer? If everything looks normal w/ the crank journals and bearings any chance you'll clean all the shavings out and throw the motor back in? I'm not saying they are normal (I really don't know) but man I'd love to see that motor running strong in your car

Are you going to keep the car w/ the stock block???</TD></TR></TABLE>

Definently not normal.

 

Who built the motor?

If you did, what bearings did you use?
Did you plastiguage them or check their tolerances ?

Just curious...