auto B16 hp?
my b16 is an out of an auto car, does this mean i need to change out the springs and retainers before putting manual cams in it? what is the stock hp on an auto vs manual? stock revlimit? Thanks
rev limiter depends on ecu only. I'm sure your auto B16 engine could withstand the stock rev limit on a PR3/P30 5spd ecu though.
I've heard all kinds of myths about the auto B16:
1. weaker springs
2. less aggressive cams
3. lower compression (i know this one is wrong)
none have ever really been proven.
But chew on this, relating to the D16Z6 and D16Y8 here in the U.S.:
the camshaft, springs, retainers, and compression are exactly the same on the auto and 5spd models.
So why would Honda spend extra money to manufacture the B16A auto and manual with different engine specs?
I'd like to see a dyno comparison of both B16s (AT and MT version) in the same car, with the same transmission to resolve the myth.
I've heard all kinds of myths about the auto B16:
1. weaker springs
2. less aggressive cams
3. lower compression (i know this one is wrong)
none have ever really been proven.
But chew on this, relating to the D16Z6 and D16Y8 here in the U.S.:
the camshaft, springs, retainers, and compression are exactly the same on the auto and 5spd models.
So why would Honda spend extra money to manufacture the B16A auto and manual with different engine specs?
I'd like to see a dyno comparison of both B16s (AT and MT version) in the same car, with the same transmission to resolve the myth.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91teg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...before putting manual cams in it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd be interested in the measurements to see if the lobe height and duration is different between the AT and MT cams. You might be disappointed with the cam swap. But if you got them for cheap or free (which you usually can), then
go for it!
I'd be interested in the measurements to see if the lobe height and duration is different between the AT and MT cams. You might be disappointed with the cam swap. But if you got them for cheap or free (which you usually can), then
go for it!
I would think it does make sense for honda to put different cams in the AT models. The rev limit on AT models is lower than the MT. So why put cams that make power to 7800-8000 rpm in a car that cant go that high? The USDM D16Z6 and Y8 autos/5 spds have the same rev limit i think. Also, with the lower rev limit on B16 AT's, it would also make sense to put in single/weaker valve springs because of the low limit. Its like me going out and spending all this money on skunk2 dual springs and never taking the motor above 8,000 rpm. I believe i'd actually lose a lil bit of power (if i never take it above 8000) because of the extra resistance the stiffer dual springs give. So basically honda has cost effectivness and performance in mind.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The ZC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dyno comparison will be different because an auto loses more power because its not as efficent. I wanna know too..</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's why i said,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...dyno comparison of both B16s (AT and MT version) in the same car, with the same transmission </TD></TR></TABLE>
hook them both to the same 5spd in the same car, and see what happens. I'll bet it would resolve some myths.
I'll tell you one thing though, my brother has an obd0 b16a that was originally in an auto XSi DA chassis, and it had perfect compression and leakdown across the board once we got it installed and tested.
pretty good for a 12-16 yr old motor. Like jurassic said, they don't get beat on as much before they reach our shores in the U.S., which is always a good thing.
so even if there is differences in springs and cams, i'll take the auto longblock. It's easier and cheaper to swap out the springs and cams with MT ones (or better aftermarket), than it is to rebuild a bottom end and bring compression back up to "new" on a MT B16A that was beat on.
that's why i said,
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...dyno comparison of both B16s (AT and MT version) in the same car, with the same transmission </TD></TR></TABLE>
hook them both to the same 5spd in the same car, and see what happens. I'll bet it would resolve some myths.
I'll tell you one thing though, my brother has an obd0 b16a that was originally in an auto XSi DA chassis, and it had perfect compression and leakdown across the board once we got it installed and tested.
pretty good for a 12-16 yr old motor. Like jurassic said, they don't get beat on as much before they reach our shores in the U.S., which is always a good thing.
so even if there is differences in springs and cams, i'll take the auto longblock. It's easier and cheaper to swap out the springs and cams with MT ones (or better aftermarket), than it is to rebuild a bottom end and bring compression back up to "new" on a MT B16A that was beat on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nuc79 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so even if there is differences in springs and cams, i'll take the auto longblock. It's easier and cheaper to swap out the springs and cams with MT ones (or better aftermarket), than it is to rebuild a bottom end and bring compression back up to "new" on a MT B16A that was beat on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i always tell people...
so even if there is differences in springs and cams, i'll take the auto longblock. It's easier and cheaper to swap out the springs and cams with MT ones (or better aftermarket), than it is to rebuild a bottom end and bring compression back up to "new" on a MT B16A that was beat on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what i always tell people...
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