As title states.
My car seems sluggish when im bumpin hard. I'm not sure if it's my stereo,battery,alternator or amp.

It'll happens when i'm at idle, i think. Could it be a bad ground? I'm using my strut tower bar as ground.

Another thing to add is, that when i have my stereo on for more than a minute, the car wont turn on cause batterie dies.(haven't done that in a while)


PS.90 CRX Si,

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C-RICKS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm using my strut tower bar as ground.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wtf...

i can already tell you have it ghetto assed wired...

wire it the correct way, get your battery and alternator tested at autozone...

 

seriously.. you need to redo your grounds, get a larger alternator, and a new battery. The crx only has a 60amp alternator stock, it is barely enough to run just the stock accessories and the car. Get a new high output one from stinger, ohio gen, iraggi alt, h-o alternators, alterstart... etc etc..

 

I agree you should get your battery & alternator tested. But, I don't think you need a higher output alternator. Just buy a capacitor. This should hold enough energy for those big transient peaks. Oh, and don't play the stereo with the car off.

I had 4 12's & 1000 watts in my old 87 accord, and after installing the cap never had a problem with lights dimming or anything. Just my 2 cents.

 

how about you take that junk out...

 

You may need a cap depending on how much watts your system is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about you take that junk out... </TD></TR></TABLE>
losing power with all the weight

 

Not to hyjack but how much is a larger alt.?

 

When you say your using your strut tower bar I hope you mean your using the 14mm nut on the shock tower. If not then you need to fix that.

A ground for the AMP is very important, gotta make sure it's clean and tight.

Let me tell you about your problem, you need to get a new battery. Seems to me like your battery won't hold a charge. Get it checked and you will know, it's free just take it to Discount Auto, AutoZone, PepBoys, & etc.

A cap will help with the dimming of the lights and it's a good investment. I have the stock alternator with an Optima red top battery and I have no electrical problems.

However I have this annoying engine noise after I grounded the engine in several places. If you use too many grounds in the engine bay then you will get some engine noise.

Hope this helps

 

Let's hope by "bumpin stereo" you don't mean driving down a residential area with your windows down and the stereo set at 120dbs!

 

It just seems slower because you cant hear the rumble of your fart can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pSI civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about you take that junk out... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i personally think a cap is a waste of money. doing the magic 3 will help with the dimming of the lights. you definatly want a new battery. an optima deep cycle would be good for you, since you like to play your system with the car off i guess. they're easier to bring back to life than regular batteries. and your ground definatly sucks. even your seat bracket would be a better ground than that, but even that ground point sucks.

 

yea i don't know what i think of my farad cap.... my lights still dim at idle... wish i could find a way to fab up a mount for a stronger alt.

 

i had the same problem with my crx..........check your altinator

 

1st of all how many watts rms are you pushing??
2nd high power alternators are like 200-240
3rd caps aren't a waste of time they help eliminate alot of the stress by saving energy for the really hard notes so it doesn't just pull it for the rest of the car
i would get a cap and a battery to start if that doesn't help you will need a alternator.
i had 3 15's ported in a wall close to 2000 watts rms and 0 gauge wire every were with two 1 farad caps with a shitty battery and stock alternanator in my 90 hatch and i hit over 150 db's goodluck

 

Stinger can build the internals of the alternator to pump out the power..but its gonna be Alot of money...$$$$$$ Its not worth it to me ..but its your car

Click Me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sloweredcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1st of all how many watts rms are you pushing??
2nd high power alternators are like 200-240
3rd caps aren't a waste of time they help eliminate alot of the stress by saving energy for the really hard notes so it doesn't just pull it for the rest of the car
i would get a cap and a battery to start if that doesn't help you will need a alternator.
i had 3 15's ported in a wall close to 2000 watts rms and 0 gauge wire every were with two 1 farad caps with a shitty battery and stock alternanator in my 90 hatch and i hit over 150 db's goodluck</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. 700+
2. on ebay yes.. elsewhere 300+
3. replaced alt, have rf 1 farad... and deep cycle batt... alt pumps out woot woot 48amps at idle i just hate the dimming of my console/lights at idle.... not when bass hits...
4. i have no prob w/ how loud/ quality/ slam of my system, it's perfect... just annoying when headlights dim at idle, still have plenty of power at stereo.

3 amps, 11 speakers, changer, radar detector, gauges that's all i'm running off my car no neons or ricer stuff like that....