JDM ITR Seats worth it?
I currently have regular ITR seats (which are the same as any other integra seat) and saw some JDM ITR seats for a decent deal. My itr seats are actually shitty for racing because the bolsters don't hold me and there is no support on the bottom. Question is, are the JDM ITR (Recaro SRD) worth the money or should i just got buy a racing seat like a Sparco?
thanks
thanks
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I currently have regular ITR seats (which are the same as any other integra seat) and saw some JDM ITR seats for a decent deal. My itr seats are actually shitty for racing because the bolsters don't hold me and there is no support on the bottom. Question is, are the JDM ITR (Recaro SRD) worth the money or should i just got buy a racing seat like a Sparco?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
the SRD's hold decently, but it depends on how big you are. I found myself a little too small to fit perfectly in the recaro speeds (which i imagine are just like the SRD's) and found that the sparco torino's fit much better.
then out of nowhere i bought a bucket so it didn't matter
for the prices people are charging for ITR seats, and if you can live with the discomfort of contorting to get out of your bucket seat/car, get a bucket. if you want something w/ a little less of a commitment, take some "test sits" in reclinables.
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
the SRD's hold decently, but it depends on how big you are. I found myself a little too small to fit perfectly in the recaro speeds (which i imagine are just like the SRD's) and found that the sparco torino's fit much better.
then out of nowhere i bought a bucket so it didn't matter

for the prices people are charging for ITR seats, and if you can live with the discomfort of contorting to get out of your bucket seat/car, get a bucket. if you want something w/ a little less of a commitment, take some "test sits" in reclinables.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> My itr seats are actually shitty for racing </TD></TR></TABLE>
For W2W racing, you have to have a one piece racing seat anyways. If you're just talking about HPDE's and such, IMO, I have never seen a street seat to have as good leg bolsters as a racing seat. Unfortunately, I can't give you an opinion between the JDM/USDM ITR seats, so I'll shut up now.
for the record, though, for the money spent, I'd go for the racing seat.
For W2W racing, you have to have a one piece racing seat anyways. If you're just talking about HPDE's and such, IMO, I have never seen a street seat to have as good leg bolsters as a racing seat. Unfortunately, I can't give you an opinion between the JDM/USDM ITR seats, so I'll shut up now.
for the record, though, for the money spent, I'd go for the racing seat.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for the record, though, for the money spent, I'd go for the racing seat.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And a rollbar. A pair of Sparco Sprints, G-Force belts and a rollbar is probably cheaper than bling bling Jay-Dee-M Red recaros.
And a rollbar. A pair of Sparco Sprints, G-Force belts and a rollbar is probably cheaper than bling bling Jay-Dee-M Red recaros.
it actually works out to about $700 for the jdm itr seats (black)... and sparco's are about $400 a seat plus rails.. so its gonna be a bit more for the racing seats... but i dont think the passenger side needs a racing seat anyways
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sparco's are about $400 a seat plus rails.. so its gonna be a bit more for the racing seats... but i dont think the passenger side needs a racing seat anyways</TD></TR></TABLE>
http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/...ake=1 - $229

http://www.ioportracing.com/Me...AP981 - $269

http://www.racerwholesale.com/...esses - $109
http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/...ake=1 - $229

http://www.ioportracing.com/Me...AP981 - $269

http://www.racerwholesale.com/...esses - $109
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it actually works out to about $700 for the jdm itr seats (black)... and sparco's are about $400 a seat plus rails.. so its gonna be a bit more for the racing seats... but i dont think the passenger side needs a racing seat anyways</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow $700 is a good price for those seats.
are these going into a daily driver/race car, or a dedicated race car? if it's a DD, i'd get the SRD's. if it was a DRC, i'd get the buckets.
also the sparco sprints are 229/seat + rails, the sparco speeds are 279.
wow $700 is a good price for those seats.
are these going into a daily driver/race car, or a dedicated race car? if it's a DD, i'd get the SRD's. if it was a DRC, i'd get the buckets.
also the sparco sprints are 229/seat + rails, the sparco speeds are 279.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/...ake=1 - $229

</TD></TR></TABLE>
That seat won't work with a 5-point, unless you can cut a 5th hole in it or else I'd get one.
http://www.ogracing.com/eshop/...ake=1 - $229

</TD></TR></TABLE>
That seat won't work with a 5-point, unless you can cut a 5th hole in it or else I'd get one.
...or use a V-type sub belt (6-point) running back through the side holes. Unless you've tried it, you are endangering your 'nads unnecessarily.
BTW - are those tube frame or composite seats?
K
BTW - are those tube frame or composite seats?
K
Eh, if it's a street car, it's a bit of a hassle to climb into a race seat and then belt in a 5 or 6 point harness. I'd just go with the SRDs.
Weekend or "race" only car, I'd go with the shell/harness/rollbar, though, obviously.
Weekend or "race" only car, I'd go with the shell/harness/rollbar, though, obviously.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would the integra cage fit a civic hatch without modification?</TD></TR></TABLE>
sounds like one of those all the weight, none of the advantages type of things to do. Ironically, if you want to be safe using 5 or 6 point harnesses and a reclining seat, you really need the back brace (although personally I think once you go w/ harnesses, you need the roll hoop and fixed race seat) which might do some physical damage to these seats (and if they are worth that much, might be a shame to do).
sounds like one of those all the weight, none of the advantages type of things to do. Ironically, if you want to be safe using 5 or 6 point harnesses and a reclining seat, you really need the back brace (although personally I think once you go w/ harnesses, you need the roll hoop and fixed race seat) which might do some physical damage to these seats (and if they are worth that much, might be a shame to do).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Another Drew »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That seat won't work with a 5-point, unless you can cut a 5th hole in it or else I'd get one.
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yes it will work with a 5 point....i hvae it now.....no problems pulling 5th point over front....
That seat won't work with a 5-point, unless you can cut a 5th hole in it or else I'd get one.
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes it will work with a 5 point....i hvae it now.....no problems pulling 5th point over front....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
yes it will work with a 5 point....i hvae it now.....no problems pulling 5th point over front....
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From talking with John Crow at Crow Enterprizes, he says you should <U>not</U> do this, as in a head on collision, because the strap is not tight to your package, you can still slide forward. When you do finally hit the strap, with some force, it'll be all scrambled eggs.
yes it will work with a 5 point....i hvae it now.....no problems pulling 5th point over front....
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From talking with John Crow at Crow Enterprizes, he says you should <U>not</U> do this, as in a head on collision, because the strap is not tight to your package, you can still slide forward. When you do finally hit the strap, with some force, it'll be all scrambled eggs.
I've sat in both, and the JDM Recaros are a WAY better seat (for a street car). The stock USDM ITR seats have poor lower back and thigh support, and the bolsters are two damn small...
The Recaros hold you in snugly, perfect for HPDE's or daily driving IMO.
The Recaros hold you in snugly, perfect for HPDE's or daily driving IMO.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Philly_NBP_R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've sat in both, and the JDM Recaros are a WAY better seat (for a street car). The stock USDM ITR seats have poor lower back and thigh support, and the bolsters are two damn small...
The Recaros hold you in snugly, perfect for HPDE's or daily driving IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree. the jdm recaros are alot more snug and keep your butt from sliding during cornering
The Recaros hold you in snugly, perfect for HPDE's or daily driving IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree. the jdm recaros are alot more snug and keep your butt from sliding during cornering
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes it will work with a 5 point....i have it now.....no problems pulling 5th point over front....
</TD></TR></TABLE> uh, you mean no problems YET? or what?
</TD></TR></TABLE> uh, you mean no problems YET? or what?
editted for poor memory....
IMHO if you tighten the lap belts snugly and then the shoulder belts, with our fairly upright seatbacks, the chances of sliding under the lap belts is pretty slim. The crotch straps also give some resistance to the lap belts pulling up when the shoulder straps are tightened.
Modified by ITC Racer at 10:22 AM 9/1/2004
IMHO if you tighten the lap belts snugly and then the shoulder belts, with our fairly upright seatbacks, the chances of sliding under the lap belts is pretty slim. The crotch straps also give some resistance to the lap belts pulling up when the shoulder straps are tightened.
Modified by ITC Racer at 10:22 AM 9/1/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITC Racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">....with our fairly upright seatbacks,....The crotch straps also give some resistance to the lap belts pulling up when the shoulder straps are tightened. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The problem I see possible is that with a combination of an upright position and the sub-belt running over the front of the seat, the sub-belt is now perpendicular to the shoulder belt. The sub-belt can't act as a counterforce to the shoulderbelts being pulled up in the vertical direction. The sub-belt can only resist forces in the horizontal direction.
This is the reason why a properly mounted sub-belt is almost parallel to the shoulderbelts.
The problem I see possible is that with a combination of an upright position and the sub-belt running over the front of the seat, the sub-belt is now perpendicular to the shoulder belt. The sub-belt can't act as a counterforce to the shoulderbelts being pulled up in the vertical direction. The sub-belt can only resist forces in the horizontal direction.
This is the reason why a properly mounted sub-belt is almost parallel to the shoulderbelts.
I went and checked out a set of sparcos, and I dont think i could handle them for daily driving. To much of a pain getting in and out. I might however pick up one for a "track day" seat. So I have opted for the JDM blingers and got the recaros. I'll post up some pics if anyone cares
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITC Racer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a Momo Rookie seat in my W2W CRX and run the crotch straps (6 pt setup) over the front of the seat and have not slid out the front or damaged 'the boys' during a head on shunt a couple years back.
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Why would you do that? The Momo Rookies has the hole for the anti-sub belt (at least it did a few years ago when I installed one in my RX-7).
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Why would you do that? The Momo Rookies has the hole for the anti-sub belt (at least it did a few years ago when I installed one in my RX-7).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Why would you do that? The Momo Rookies has the hole for the anti-sub belt (at least it did a few years ago when I installed one in my RX-7).</TD></TR></TABLE>
How's the fit of the Rookies? Similiar to Sparco Pro 2000? EVO? EVO2? EVO3?
Why would you do that? The Momo Rookies has the hole for the anti-sub belt (at least it did a few years ago when I installed one in my RX-7).</TD></TR></TABLE>
How's the fit of the Rookies? Similiar to Sparco Pro 2000? EVO? EVO2? EVO3?
Just some info:
After having done some research on the subject, the Simpson website states to never install a six-point, antisub-strap set up through the single hole of a standard racing seat. It pulls the straps together and defeats the purpose of have dual antisub-straps. (Edit: Upon re-reading this, I'm not sure why this is a NEVER, as opposed to a "why pay the extra money for 6's, when you're only getting the benefits of a 5") Through inquiries on this board, it became apparent that no one makes a seat with holes for the proper mounting of a dual antisub-strap through the seat. As I made mention before, running the antisubs over the front of the seat is not a good idea. Yes, they hold the waist belt down, but in a high g-force frontal impact, there is enough force to still cause you to submarine and slam your buddies into the crotch straps when you meet them. As Kirk suggested, and from talking with harness manufacturers, the most comfortable way to install 6-pointers with a standard racing seat, is to run them the same route as the lap belts, through the side holes, under your lap belt, to the same points as your lapbelts go. When you climb in, just sit on the antisubs with the connection point between your legs, and when you put the rest of the camlock/latch together, it's right where it needs to be. Properly adjusted, the antisubs will protect your bells and whistle, as well as keep you from sliding under.
Thanks for the suggestion, Kirk.
If I can get a hold of my dad's digital camera, I'll post pics of my set up.
After having done some research on the subject, the Simpson website states to never install a six-point, antisub-strap set up through the single hole of a standard racing seat. It pulls the straps together and defeats the purpose of have dual antisub-straps. (Edit: Upon re-reading this, I'm not sure why this is a NEVER, as opposed to a "why pay the extra money for 6's, when you're only getting the benefits of a 5") Through inquiries on this board, it became apparent that no one makes a seat with holes for the proper mounting of a dual antisub-strap through the seat. As I made mention before, running the antisubs over the front of the seat is not a good idea. Yes, they hold the waist belt down, but in a high g-force frontal impact, there is enough force to still cause you to submarine and slam your buddies into the crotch straps when you meet them. As Kirk suggested, and from talking with harness manufacturers, the most comfortable way to install 6-pointers with a standard racing seat, is to run them the same route as the lap belts, through the side holes, under your lap belt, to the same points as your lapbelts go. When you climb in, just sit on the antisubs with the connection point between your legs, and when you put the rest of the camlock/latch together, it's right where it needs to be. Properly adjusted, the antisubs will protect your bells and whistle, as well as keep you from sliding under.
Thanks for the suggestion, Kirk.
If I can get a hold of my dad's digital camera, I'll post pics of my set up.




